I'll admit that there were times when i really hated the fact that i had the last year of carbs for camaros, and wished i had an LB9, but now that my mechanic was able to properly tune my choke, it feels like i have a new car. Car starts and idles like its fuelie, sips gas in comparision to before, and just has more overall drivability and road manners. Now to put in those CK rods and B hanger. Will swapping this in, require any additional tuning or can i just drop them in and go?

P.S. Thanks to everyone whose replied to my earlier posts regarding carbs. Ed, Damon and five7kid in particular!!

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86 Camaro metallic blue
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter,GN fan switch, 180* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System, !EGR, '78 corvette rims, new paint!!!

[This message has been edited by Dana'86_305 (edited July 23, 2001).]

 

Glad to hear the problem was identified and resolved.

What was it?

P.S. Not to burst your bubble, but they still put carbs on in '87.

P.P.S. The CK rods may be a bit too much - that's what I'm using on my 396. But, that's what tuning is all about. You may get more out of them by adjusting the secondary AV spring tension, though, or you may find that DR's work better.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

Glad to hear it's running well. Changing secondary rods is a drop in and go kinda thing. The won't affect performance/tuning below about 2/3 throttle at all. They only come into play when you call Scotty for Warp 9.

 

ok so the CK rods might be too rich? What is a good indicator of them being too much for my engine? Will it bog on WOT? Would it be something i would notice immediatly? I'm kinda leary now, about running 'em now that i have everything running properly.

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86 Camaro metalic blue
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter,GN fan switch, 180* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System, !EGR, '78 corvette rims, new paint!!!

 

Dana,

Damon gave me lots of great advice when I was tuning my Qjet. Don't let ANYBODY ever tell you the Qjet is a dog--it ain't so brother!

Damon recommends DR rods and a G hangar for the 305, and that is where I would start if I were you. I couldn't find any DRs but found a set of AYs, which are kissing cousins, right next to each other in the catalog, and they have been splendid for me.

If it bogs at WOT for you after installing the DRs, then that generally means the secondary air valve is sticky. Here is what Damon told me to do to fix this:

Todd-

Glad to hear about your tuning success. But try a set of DRs in there-
you'll like them even more. The key to the DRs is that they are very rich on
initial air valve opening (the first 20-30 degrees). That's important to
making torque when you first "nail it." Almost all secondary rods are too
lean on initial opening (they're ALL emissions carbs from day one, remember).

The DRs are about the best you'll find in a commonly available stock rod selection.

Also, reduce the tension on your air valve from the stock setting of usually
about 7/8 of a turn down to 1/2 a turn from the "zero tension point." If you
aren't sure how to do that just shoot me an email and send detailed
instructions.

Last, but not least, make sure the vacuum can on the side of the carb is
adjusted properly. With the engine running, the vacuum can will fully
retract (or use a hand vacuum pump if you have one- jsut DON'T push it in by
hand- it's not an accurate way of doing it). With the can fully retracted
make sure you can still open the secondary air valves just a degree or two by
pushing on it lightly with your finger. In other words, you want just a
smidge of play in there. Not too much, not too little. I found on my
brother's stock QJet that the air valves were being held tightly shut with
the can fully retracted. That meant it was taking longer than it should for
the air valves to start opening (reduced performance). In extreme cases the
air valve can be prevented from fully opening if the adjustment is too far
off (that was the case with my brother's carb). If there is too much play,
however, (5-10 degrees or more) it will "fall on it's nose" when you first
get into it. Adjustement is done by simply bending (yes, BENDING) the rod
that goes from the vacuum can back to the secondary air vlave arm at it's 90*
angle. That's jsut before it attaches to the secondary air valve arm (near
the back). Bend the angle tighter to tighten the slack, and vice versa.

I guarantee a smile with these changes.

Damon
_________

Need I say that I am smiling from ear to ear everytime I take the Camaro out for a spin?



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1986 Camaro Sports Coupe
T-tops, power hatch, rear defrost, third brake light
LG4 305 V8, "Damonized" Q-Jet 4bbl, K&N filter
Crane ignition kit, TH700R4 transmission and Derale cooler
Air conditioning, pw, pl, pb, ps, tilt wheel
Kenwood cassette, Pioneer 6x4 component front speakers
Rockford Fosgate 6x9 Punch rear speakers
Aluminum slots and Goodyear 225x60R15 Eagle HP tires

 

Wow thanks for the the details Sitting Bull, I'll def. print those out to save. Now if i could only get my car to run with those fox bodies...

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86 Camaro, metallic blue
LG4, Tuned Q-Jet
Edlebrock Performer Intake, Edlebrock Open Element,High Flow Cat,Dynomax Catback,B&M Megashifter,GN fan switch, 180* TSAT, 3.42s, 800 Watt System, !EGR, '78 corvette rims, new paint!!!