carb and fuel pump questions
carb and fuel pump questions
i have an 87 camaro, it was origionally a 2.8 mpfi. now i have a carbed 86 350 crate motor. it has an edelbrock 650 carb on it. i bought an edelbrock high performance mechanical fuel pump ( that barely fits ). im not too sure how to run the lines from the pump to the carb. And i was first told that i didnt have to remove the old electric pump from the tank but now as i read some of the post im hearing that the mechanical pump will work too hard to get fuel past the old pump? i was going to use the old pump with the afpr but the wires from the fuel pump relay were clipped when i got the car ( not running ) i guess what im asking is which pump should i run, and how do i hook up my carb? thanx
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Well, nobody else tried, so I will.
Get the 25' roll of aluminum fuel line from Summit, a few 3/8" flare nuts (male), and a foot or so of rubber 3/8" fuel line and some fuel line hose clamps. Then, drop the tank, remove the pickup, and either take out the electric pump and replace it with a length of rubber line, or put in a mechanical pump pickup (the latter if the current line is not 3/8"). Mount the tank back up.
Now, run the Al line up the same way the stock line went, except avoid getting it close to the exhaust and run it over to the passenger side either over the transmission hump (what the factory did for carbed V8 cars), or across the front of the front crossmember (what I did - much easier). Connect to the mechanical fuel pump with a short length of rubber hose (4" or less).
Get a proper flared 90 degree elbow fitting for the pump outlet and point it up, put a flared male nut on another piece of Al line, and run it from the pump to the carb. Either use another flare nut at the carb, or another short piece of rubber line. This would be a good time and place to put in an in-line fuel filter.
The aluminum fuel line is very easy to work, doesn't tend to crimp down when you bend it around corners (but I used a tube bending spring over it anyway), and is easy to cut & flare (get tube flaring and cutting tools if you don't have them already).
Cap off or plug the fuel return line.
How's that sound?
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited September 05, 2001).]
Get the 25' roll of aluminum fuel line from Summit, a few 3/8" flare nuts (male), and a foot or so of rubber 3/8" fuel line and some fuel line hose clamps. Then, drop the tank, remove the pickup, and either take out the electric pump and replace it with a length of rubber line, or put in a mechanical pump pickup (the latter if the current line is not 3/8"). Mount the tank back up.
Now, run the Al line up the same way the stock line went, except avoid getting it close to the exhaust and run it over to the passenger side either over the transmission hump (what the factory did for carbed V8 cars), or across the front of the front crossmember (what I did - much easier). Connect to the mechanical fuel pump with a short length of rubber hose (4" or less).
Get a proper flared 90 degree elbow fitting for the pump outlet and point it up, put a flared male nut on another piece of Al line, and run it from the pump to the carb. Either use another flare nut at the carb, or another short piece of rubber line. This would be a good time and place to put in an in-line fuel filter.
The aluminum fuel line is very easy to work, doesn't tend to crimp down when you bend it around corners (but I used a tube bending spring over it anyway), and is easy to cut & flare (get tube flaring and cutting tools if you don't have them already).
Cap off or plug the fuel return line.
How's that sound?
------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited September 05, 2001).]
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