Well, it started today. I need to know how to adjust the idle air bleed and the two idle screws in the throttle body. Do I really need a dwellmeter or float gage or whatever the shop manual says? How do you guys adjust carbs?

Also, the fuel inlet nut leaks gas. I've tightened it as hard as I can, but it still leaks. I used the replacement gasket in the kit, so I'm confused. Can I use teflon tape on the threads? I think that would cure it.

With the car not running, I hear a popping sound when I press the gas. It is the same sound I heard when i pushed the accelerator pump down in the bore. When the engine is running, it bogs when I hit the accelerator fast. Sow long does it take before the new pump seats?

It idles ok, maybe a little high. Sometimes when I press the gas, the rpms go real high and do not come back down when I let off the gas. What causes this?
Thanks
Homer

 

i don't think my accelerator pump pops when i push the gas you may want to check to make sure that nothing is blocking any of the passageways going from the accel. pump (just an idea don't hold me to it) rebuilt my q-jet over the summer 'cause the accel. pump crapped out when i put it all back together i noticed how much better it ran right away. after that my cars ideling was going up and not coming back down like that too took it apart last week and jb welded the plugs on the underside of the fuel well and it fixed the problem. well i hope that helps later

 

Well, it cured itself before I could do anything. I guess the rubber boot needs to get wet with gas or else it will catch on the cylinder walls and pop.

 

so homer did u get that rebuild kit from pepboys or did u just get pieces from other carbs or what.

 

Oh yeah, I got it at pepboys. Same part number, same price. Thanks for recommending it, it had everything in it!

 

Hi guys, I've seen quite a few posts about adjusting the idle air mixture screws and I thought I'd post how I've been doing it for 20 years.
First this applies to non-ECM carbs but still applies to them as well:Turn your idle air screws all the way in till lightly seated and back them out 2 1/2 turns,this will be a starting point. Get the car up to operating temperature(and in closed loop operation for E-Qjets) and set your base timing, then set the idle speed screw to spec from the emissions decal(in drive,wheels choked) then start to turn them(idle mixture screws) in 1/8 of turn going back and forth to each screw. Allow for a few seconds between 1/8th turns to let the engine settle in. You will eventually feel the engine going into a "lean roll" or unstable idle. From that point you back them out 1/8th of turn and your set! Put it in Park and set your curb idle speed and recheck your timing. If you have to change your base timing then recheck your idle air screws as a different timing setting will change the vacuum signal the idle circuit sees.
If you still have NO control using the idle air mixture screws then you either have a vacuum leak or "nozzle drip" because of a high idle. E- Qjet guys may have an erratic TPS switch or TPS adjustment problem, tricking the ECM into thinking it is "into" the power circuit.
You'll need a couple of specialty tools for this,no big deal,but you can get them at most of the parts stores.Lisle tools makes a great idle air tool that has abot an 18" flexible shaft with interchangeable ends for a variety of Q-jet screw head styles. I bought two of them and mark the screwdriver head part with a mark so I can see how much of a turn I've applied and using two at a time saves me trying to pull it off one head and forcing it on the other screw on a hot engine.
As for the inlet leaking? There are two kinds of fuel inlet gaskets; one seats on the threded end and the other slips all the way up to the hexed end of the inlet. They look similar but seal very differently and most kits provide both and it's easy to use the wrong one.