k, new plugs, wires, cap...and unfortunately distributor (HEI, when changing your weights and springs, be careful taking that if the center weight doesn't come off easy, the pins break).
Car was purchased not long ago, and has always hesitated and backfired when coming off the line (to WOT), isn't as bad if your rev up a bit first, but still really bad.
Only way I can make it stop is to set the timing WAY up (like 40 degrees), and then it doesn't do it, but the car seems to run really rich (exhaust is terrible). Also if I try to set the HEI per the set up givin here, it really seems to run rough at idle (at 12 -18 degrees).

To the best of my knowledge it's the stock 305 h.o., with a Holley (600 or 650) vacum sec. And a holley mainfold.

Thanks in advance

 

How much resistance should there be on the acceleration pump??
When it goes to WOT the spring on the nut and bolt that opens the lever,seems to compress some, (maybe and 1/8"). Is this normal?

 

1. Resistance on acc pump. You should be able to puta .020 feeler gage between pump arm and spring loaded bolt at wide open throttle. Without engine running of course.

2.

As for the bog soung like timing is too low. Balancer could have spun. re verify TDC anc check that against balancer and pointer. Car is used it could not be correct.

Car seems to be too rich, another indication that timing is too low, not enough advance to burn fuel. It is going out the exaust.

Set timing first.

Then adjust carb.

If it still bogs you can fix it with shooter size change or pump cam change. You can also addust secondary idle for smother transition.

 

I understand you need .02" clearance (holly says .015, but not important for this question), I mean is, when I push the acc pump lever down, should the spring bolt comedown some too (ie releasing spring pressure), and if so, should I measure assuming that it doesn't happed (ie from where the arm was at WOT) or after the spring pressure is released? I've noticed allso when you "punch" it, the spring compresses as the acc pump is being used (then slowly catches up to where you can't even notice it) is this normal??

Thanks again in advance

 

Yes that is normal.

The spring allows for compression so you do not destroy the acc pump.

If the spring did not give, the pump would rupture because you can not compress a liquid (gasoline)

If you press slowly the gas has TIME to be pumped out.

If you press quickly the spring compress and them comtinues to pump out the pump shot as it reaches full travel.

Measure after the spring has fully extended. Some books say .015 some say .020.

The real answer is this...

Determine how far the pump arm on the pump has to compressed to deliver the whole shot and adjust from there. Any more only put more unneeded force on the pump. Any less and you dont get a full pump shoot.

You may have to change pump cams and or bend the arm tha rides on the cam and has the spring bolt through it to get maxim performance.

You can play with this, pump cams, shooter size, and ignition timing and remove ALL BOG from the carb assuming the carb is not messed up somewhere else.

I had an 850 on a 1st Gen 350cu T350 auto car with 2.73 gears and a stock converter. You could nail the car from idle and it would blow the tires off. an 850 should have been too big. Only mentioned to show how you can tune out the bog.

I STILL THINK YOUR ISSUE IS TIMING. A narrower plug gap may also help.

Good luck

 

Not sure what this means, I set the distributor myself, had wife turn car over with #1 plug removed, (nudging of course) felt compression, and when I felt it the balancer mark was off from the 0 mark by a little, so I had to give it one more very small nudge and that set the 0 mark perfectly. Is the difference between where i felt compression and that last nudge, the spinning you are referring to? And if so is there a way to fix that, that isn't very difficult?

Thanks again in advance