Choke light - Take a peek inside
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 112
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Car: '89 IROC
Engine: 5.7lt 350 TPI
Transmission: Original :(
Choke light - Take a peek inside
Hello. Thanks for at least looking.
First off, the choke light stays on when the car is running. This actually began about 3 weeks ago. The car started, fast idled, and would not drop when the gas was touched, or left alone.
The car eventually dieseled for 2 minutes, then literally died in the driveway. After replacing spark plugs/wires/Distrib. cap/coil/rotor it starts beautifully....yet the annoying little light stays on.
Alternator was replaced yesterday to try to fix the problem (it was bad anyway)
Auto- choke connections are secure, and nothing is obstructing the tension spring, etc.
Any ideas?
Car is an - 1986 Camaro IROC V8 305 w/ electric carb.
First off, the choke light stays on when the car is running. This actually began about 3 weeks ago. The car started, fast idled, and would not drop when the gas was touched, or left alone.
The car eventually dieseled for 2 minutes, then literally died in the driveway. After replacing spark plugs/wires/Distrib. cap/coil/rotor it starts beautifully....yet the annoying little light stays on.
Alternator was replaced yesterday to try to fix the problem (it was bad anyway)
Auto- choke connections are secure, and nothing is obstructing the tension spring, etc.
Any ideas?
Car is an - 1986 Camaro IROC V8 305 w/ electric carb.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Have you checked the voltage to the choke yet? Most likely it is not up to battery voltage.
There is a choke relay in the circuit that doesn't send voltage to the choke until the alternator pushes the voltage over a certain threshold. That relay may be bad, or you have a bad circuit up to the relay.
Interestingly enough, my choke wire became disconnected yesterday. I knew because the idle wouldn't come down. The choke light did not come on, though.
There is a choke relay in the circuit that doesn't send voltage to the choke until the alternator pushes the voltage over a certain threshold. That relay may be bad, or you have a bad circuit up to the relay.
Interestingly enough, my choke wire became disconnected yesterday. I knew because the idle wouldn't come down. The choke light did not come on, though.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Car: '89 IROC
Engine: 5.7lt 350 TPI
Transmission: Original :(
Hi, this is 89's girl...can someone be a little more descriptive of where the automatic choke connection and relay are? This is one of those 1 step forward, 2 step back cars, I can feel it lol...
With engine running unplug the one-wire connection that goes to the choke element (pass. side of carb- round black thing is the choke element). Measure voltage between the wire and a good ground. Should be the same as runnign voltage (13V or so, if your new alternator's doing it's job). If you got good voltage there then the choke element is likely bad and needs to be replaced. That'll run you about $35 for a new element and about 1/2 hour of time to drill out the original rivets that hold the original choke element in place, replace the choke element and -twist in the self-tapping screws that come with the new choke element to hold it in place.
For sure your choke isn't opeing- that's why you are getting the high idle speed. Now it's just a matter of whether you are getting voltage to the choke element to heat it up and cause it to open (wiring/relay problem) or if the choke element iteslf is bad.
For sure your choke isn't opeing- that's why you are getting the high idle speed. Now it's just a matter of whether you are getting voltage to the choke element to heat it up and cause it to open (wiring/relay problem) or if the choke element iteslf is bad.
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