Well, my car ran SOOOOOOOOOOOOO great on my B-Day that I took a nice road trip! No troubles- but 3 days later - check engine lite came on- I was on Hwy doing 65 (O.D.), needed to pass another car ( ) got up to 75 & saw it getting brighter...let off the gas and started changing lanes in case ???? My speed was 50-55 in slow lane and after a sec the light started fading and then was gone. Got code 45...This carb was adjusted while error code 41 existed...the distributor wires..."RICH" is an understatement here! AND the Idle (?) keeps going UP...RPMs @ 10-15 in Drive at a stop? Same going from Park to Reverse after warm up..CLUNK is loud and painful sounding..Acts like it wants to race-but I don't!!!

Does anyone know what adjusting will help? And does my Transmission get vacuum for any reason?? Gotta try to pass smog (CA) this month.....Thanks!!

 

Kinda sounds like the choke wire isn't connected to the choke or the wire has an intermitant loss of power at the connector.

 

CHOKE WIRE? I did replace the connector where it plugs in to choke.....I didn't follow the wire BACK from there though.....I read that my car has a Choke Relay and think IT may have a problem? With PREVIOUS Carb, the choke "light" next to check engine light WAS ALWAYS ON, but if I pulled the connector off, out went the light. (thats when I replaced the wire/connector but still lit) I thought the choke was only for starting, until warm....does it affect the fuel and idle? Does the ECM control the choke?

I was assuming, in asking for "adjusting help", that the way the carb was set(rich mix/lean mix and IAB screws) before the timing got done correctly- was possibly why it is doing this....I don't think the guy who put my carb on measured or gauged anything, float bowl/MC solenoid? The anteroid cavity insert is missing for the MCS also.

I'm not too great with eletrical wiring though- other than splicing...can the voltage be tested like on the other components?

 

I'm on a rant. Why won't these OP's close the loop with us?