Would anyone be willing to get a nice close up shot of their Edelbrock carb, I don't work on cars so when I look at it, it's all chineese to me. Don't get me wrong though, I've looked around but I haven't been able to get a clear shot of the THROTLE LINKAGES so I don't know what to do... I bought the bolts and nuts for the return arm and the throttle arm, but... just lost from here.

I can't find my cam... sooo I can't take pictures of mine...

 

Ok, I found my old cam, it sucks, but it's the best I could do.









The first one is my biggest worry, but I also thought there was another vacuum hose, I can't find it, one that would go to either the high or low, left or right side on the front

 

Come on guys, give me a tip here.

 

Is this an automatic or a manual tranny? If it's an automatic, DO NOT DRIVE THIS CAR - I don't see any TV cable connected properly, and if it's a 700R4 tranny, and the TV cable isn't right, you'll burn up that tranny quick.

I can get you a pic of mine - but not until Wed, as I'm working dawn til dark until then.

You're pic #3 has two vacuum ports on the outsides of the tuning screws - one is ported and other not.

There are install/tune directions at www.edelbrock.com if that helps any.

 

Been years since I had an edelbrok. In the top photo : the throttle cable "should" be attached where the large " O " is. I don't remember if I had an adapter there that held the throttle cable. The cable with the long slot would go where the spring is.I think there was an "e" clip that kept it from falling off the stud but allowed it to slide on the stud. Maybe Jegs//Summit has them or a pick-ur-part.If the photos are on your phone go to an auto parts store & show them the photos. They should get you what you need. Hope you're driving soon!!
(edit) Is there an opening right behind the throttle cable in the top photo or is that a shadow?

 

you should get the 700r4 automatic transmission linkage kit from edelbrock or jegs or summit, it's cheap and it will be a breeze to attach the TV transmission and gas pedal cable...also for your front vacumms, you will need to attach the distributor vacumm advance hose to the left or passenger side vacumm on the carb if you are facing the front of your car, this is for a vacumm advance distributor..the right side or drivers side can be plugged shut... the large front middle vacuum is for your pvc valve,,,the rear large one at the back of the carb can be attached to the power brakes vacumm, i prefer to shut this one and get the vacumm from the intake manifold.., go to edelbrock . com and see their installation and instructional videos..you will see it's really easy once you see them...hope this helps.

 

Ok, so I got everything together, at least I hope, I found anohter cable, there were 3 in total and the spring, I'm going to be uploading some more pics of the cable.

At first the motor just turned, didn't start, waited a few and tried again, about 3 times.

I started it for the 4th time, it just made a big popping sound , and did like chugging durring turn over but didn't start.

Did that about 3 times.

I'm thinking it may take a little to get it to start, it's been sitting for a while.

Also, I can't find a distributor vacuum line, I was looking around but can't find it.

 

Yes I agree that if you have a 700r4 trans then you DO NEED the TV cable correction lever.
There are a few to choose from. Again, Jegs//Summit or local auto parts store will help you. A 700r4 WILL ruin itself if the TV cable is not hooked up correctly.
B4 you try to start it again, move the throttle arm on the carb all the way towards the firewall while looking into the throat of the carb--if there's fuel in the carb you will see it squirt from the front jets.
What tranny do you have? The 350 I had had a slot for the throttle stud like yours--but I haven't seen a lot of 700r4 TV cables so I don't know what tranny you have.

 

OK after looking closer at the photos I see what looks like a 700r4 TV cable behind the return spring. So I am confused. As far as the vaccum line to the distributer, that is a parts store item. Measure from the carb to the distributer advance cannister and plug it together. Also I'm sure you will make sure that NOTHING gets caught on the throttle linkage system-- studs,nuts,bolts,springs etc. It would suck if you went for a ride & the throttle stuck open because something got stuck//wedged! Just a heads up!

 

Ok, I finally got the car to start, it's chuggin at 500 RPM's at idle, I tried to mess with the tuning screws on the front and it didn't do a thing, also, after starting it and it ran for about 5 minutes, the check engine light came on, errr. It has a hesitate on the throttle, I put it in drive, and took a little before the motor went, once it did, it moved fine, nothing wrong with tranny. I should probably try to get those distributer hose for the vacuum.

Could someone post a pic of the distributor vacuum so I know what I'm looking for, and then I can go and get the part. Good thing Napa is down the street.

Think that could be the cause of the rather rough idle and hesitation on the gas, sounds like it wants to die and then goes when I press the gas.

 

Do you have the vaccum ports on the carb capped off? Any open vaccum ports that are not connected or not capped will cause rough idle//running.
The vaccum line for the distributer advance connects from the cannister on the distrbuter to the port on the carb on the passenger side IIRC.
Best if you can spare a few minutes and go to the Edelbrock site and watch the install//tune videos. It only takes about 5-10 minutes.Practicly everything is covered in the videos.
(edit) Is the electric choke all hooked up? IE-power & ground?

 

Yeah, it's all hooked up and working. I also found the canister and will head to Napa first thing when I get transportation and I will get caps for the other open port.

Just wondering, again, the passenger side port is where the vacuum line connects, yeah?

 

Yes--passenger side port.
(edit) The 2 adjustment screws affect IDLE ONLY. For detailed adjusting go to Edelbrock.com click Tech & find the section on carbs.There is install videos with PartI,II,III,etc. You can watch as many times as you like//need to.
It would help on re adjusting the idle screws. Good luck & go driving!!
PS- there are no issues with binding or sticking?

 

sounds like your on your way, look at any vacuums you have and block them off for now, this will cause the engine to run like crap and maybe not run at all,,the one for the distributor provided it's a vacuum distrubutor should have a vacuum hose connected to the front left passenger side on the carb,,,i see a lot of rust , just make sure all linkages and springs and whatever is oiled up a bit and moves free...also your tranny and engine , it should have fresh oil in it, at least in the engine since you said the car hasn't run for a while...then if and when it's running you need to adjust the idle screws on the left and right front of the carb ,,but you can look at the edelbrock instructions on line, they are clear and easy to understand...good luck and post an update.

 

Hey guys, thanks for everything. Ok, so I got a vacuum hose, hooked it to the passenger side of the carb, capped the unused port on the carb, and started it up. It idled at about 900 this time instead of 400, still ran a little rough, I'm thinking becuase of no exhaust at least, I mean there is nothing after the elbow, and it more then likely needs plugs and wires, but it ran a little smoother. I messed with the screws however, did just like the guy did in the video from edelbrock, it didn't seem to make a difference, once again, I don't know if it was because there's no backpressure. Heh

But all looks good, found a rusty split break line, replacing that for the moment.

And if the motor still running rough, should I get the exhaust first or the plugs and wires, doesn't sound likes it's miss firing. Or let me know if the exhaust has nothing to do with it.

 

Errr. I started it again, again idling rough at 500, I don't get how I put the vacuum hose on it and plug the other port and it idles fine at 1000 or so. Then I start it today, let it idle about 20 minutes and it was back to the rough 500 rpm idle. I then messed the screw on the throttle arm to bring the idle up and it came up too 1000 and left it for a few. After a few, I held the brake, but it in drive, it dropped to 500 rpm and it just wanted to die. I put it back into Park and I gave it some gas to rev it a little and it would rev over 1000, just wouldn't...

Then I tried to shut off the engine and it wouldn't shut down. I ended up having to close the choke to cut it off. Tried to start it again, it wouldn't, tried to set the screw I moved back to it's default or at least where it was fore I turned it and tried to start it again, wouldn't start, not even a puff.

Maybe I'm out of gas, considering I've been working off of one gallon of gas for the last two day, starting and letting it run for 20 minutes or so each time.... LOL hopefully that's the case, LOL

 

Ok, so I found a new prob earlier, I couldn't post, had to run to my kickboxing class. However, I found an acorn shell and probably half a dine size pieces in the main injectors (ones with the choke plate). Grr, gotta pull it apart now, huh, err.

Ok, so... I went to go see... nothing, nothing is in the carb... I looked down the throte of the carb and saw nothing.... ::sigh:: guess I was seeing things? I'll try to start it again, I also may have found two more vacuum lines, or something, I'll post pics in the morn.

 

Of course it did. You eliminated a good portion of the ECM input.

 

Do you mean because there is an aftermarket carb on it?, so the engine light will come on?

Is this something to be worried about, or should I still check the engine code?

 

The codes will be along the lines of cam sensor fault, TPS voltage, EGR valve failure, etc.

The computer needs inputs from the carburetor and distributor. Basically you eliminated most of what the computer does.

 

Eek, I hope this doesn't effect getting a sticker, LOL, damn it. Anyway of eliminating it??? LOL hah.

Anyhow, you think I should do plugs and wires or get the exhaust put on first??

I'm trying to remedy the rough idle, and when I throw it into drive, it wants to die, though, once I get it moving, it's fine.

 

Varies from state to state, but it might. Regardless, it's illegal in all 50 states.

Yes, take the bulb out. Of course, a non-operating SES light is grounds for emissions equipment inspection failure in some states.

Ignition.

I haven't said anything about it yet, but that's one of the nastiest looking carbs I've ever seen. If you haven't done so yet, get a good carb cleaner (the dip type in a gallon can) and carb kit, and clean it up inside & out.

 

Funny, it's actually new carb, guy I bought it from never finished and then let it sit... heh.

I also uploaded a vid of the camaro running so maybe you can get a better understanding for it by hearing it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SFoH1tAwhk

I also discovered, I believe they are called rocker covers, one side has the pvc valve and hose that connects to the carb and they other side has vent, or hole, I noticed in the haynes repair "guide" that it was hooked up to the stock carb air cleaner... should I hook it to the edlebrock aircleaner or just plug it?

 

Check the wires to make sure they're going to the correct plugs.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Cylinder arrangement:


back of car
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
front of car

 

Alright, I'll go double check, Would you know of a diagram showing the cap's order?

 

The firing order is the cap order, going clockwise.

#1 is the terminal the rotor is pointing to when the engine is in the #1 firing position. The rest follow. It doesn't really matter which terminal it is, as long as the rotor is pointing to the proper cylinder at the right time.

Since the engine at least runs a little, some of the wires are in the right place. Start by moving the engine (without starting it) until the mark on the harmonic damper is at the "zero" mark on the timing tab. Remove the distributor cap, and see where the rotor is pointing. It will either be pointing at #1 or #6. It appears that your #1 spark plug wire is in the typical #1 position on the cap, but that's pretty hard to say from your video. If the rotor is pointing to the opposite side when you pull the cap, then the engine is probably in the #6 firing position. #1 and #6 are straight across from each other on the distributor cap.

 

Hmm, this could be a problem, I've never handcranked a motor before, eh... if there are any tools required, I'm sure I wouldn't have them.

So this would mean I haven't a clue about a harmonic damper...

I am a newb, sorry, just trying to learn this stuff as I go.

 

Ok, so, after I finally finished the break lines in the rear, I decided to try to start it. It pops, revs to about 2g, drops back down and then stalls.

Can't seem to keep it running right and now not at all.

I'm more sooo thinking now the carb is clogged or something.

I also found something in the intake, I'm not, I'm a little confused, I'll post a pic of it in a moment.


Should this vent be hooked up?


After I tried to start it, I saw smoke vapor comming from this port on the intake, I'm not actually sure what goes there.

 

Pictures of linkage coming in a minute.

 

Here are some pictures hope this helps.

 

Here's the linkage, auto-trans

 

You should have gotten a manual with the carb, there is one online. Set idle, screw both screws on front all the way in and back them out by 2 and 1/2 turns each and then go from there. see if it helps, when warm you turn the driver side screw in until the motor sound like its going to die and then turn it back out the other way until the idle picks up and smooths out, then you do the same thing with the passenger side screw, in until motor sounds like it will die then back out until engine smooths out and idle raises. then set the idle to where you want it. There is a pdf manual at edelbrock.com

 

I noticed in one of your pics, the electric choke isn't grounded to itself, is it bad that mine is to the top screw?

Also, I noticed you have a vacuum hose hooked to the driver side of the carb, I keep forgetting what port is what, just keep referring to them as to what side it's on, I have the distributor canister vacuum hooked to the passenger side.

But, I found half of an empty Acorn seed in the carb, I'm now sure that it has to be clogged, it ran when I first hooked it up, now it won't stay running, if it fires up, it jumps up to about 2g's and then dies.

I am also not sure, but in one of my previous pics, there was a hole, I think it's call the intake minifold that the carb sits on, and it isn't covered, I'm thinking it's creating a leak? Everytime I start it, and kill the motor after, I see air vapors coming from this hole.

 

Zoiiiiks! Where's your EGR valve? Get yourself an EGR valve installed and you'll be much better off, modulates exhaust gases back into the intake to lower combustion temps (or you could get a plate and block it off just to eliminate the big hole in your intake line). Vacuum diagram on the emissions label should help you with hooking up the vacuum hoses. You could really use an oil breather on that valve cover too, but that shouldn't really affect how she runs (keeps things cleaner though).

 

Wow, man, thanks, probably why she's running this rough huh? I found an EGR Valve somewhere that seems to go there, however, it doesn't fit with the carb in the way, I may just block it, this should help with the running rough or not running at all part yea?

Also, you meantioned oil breather, I haven't slightest idea what you mean, if you could point out where it would go and if I can't find it somewhere maybe an idea of cost or page to buy it at I would appreciate it.

I just started messing with these cars a while ago and it's been awhile since I resumed my learning process.

 

I better ask, how would the camaro run without the EGR Valve itself if I just blocked the hole? Would it still run rough, or with the motor run smoother then before and the vacuum may be gone? If I do cover the hole, I should deffinately plug the hose yeah?

I should plug any other hose I find, considering it probably went to the old carb?

 

Ok, so I finally got to pull the a couple of plugs (didn't have the tools to do so before, but this guy across the street has been really helpfull). After seeing them and showing him, he said it has to be that. The #1 and #3 cylinder plugs came out and they were black, yikes. I'm going to replaced them today and I'll get back to see if my rather rough idle is fixed.

Also, on another note, I blocked off the EGR Valve hole in the manifold intake, so that has been taken care of and I was able to start it again, just still running rough.

 

Hal,

The EGR valve does function to help the fuel mixture burn more efficiently, but you can run w/o it in place. Since you've got exhaust coming out one hole and the other hole feeding the intake, you need to block both holes with a metal plate if you can't get the EGR valve to fit (although I'm not sure why you wouldn't have clearance (unless maybe you have the incorrect EGR valve for your application). You definitely don't want to use anything rubber as it'll melt here.

The oil breather would fit in the hole on the right side valve cover.

First make sure you cap off all the extra vacuum hoses/tubes on the carb, you may be able to get it running pretty well that way first. The vacuum routing diagram should be on the hood (same sticker with timing info, etc.), but if your car was originally TPI, this isn't going to help you much, you'll need someone with an original LG4 or L69 engine setup to give you a copy. But, since your car look substantially modified, you might be better off not using any of the old vacuum switches, etc and just making a clean modified setup. I'm already betting there is no smog pump on your car anymore.

 

Ok, so, changing the plugs did really nothing, it sounds a little better, however it still runs pretty much the same. How can I crank the motor in without actually starting it and I wouldn't know where the harmonic damper is either... if someone could post a pic marking it, I would appreciate it, I'm told it still sounds like a cylinder isn't firing or it's missing (timing or wires are incorrect).

If not, would it be bad to shift all the wires on the cap where I would be shifting them by one counter clock or clockwise and starting it quick to see if it's fire up fine?

 

did you block off the egr? thats a major prob as to why it would run rough... If the have the distributor cap off the might wannt check the inside of it and post a picture of the brass points inside. Could need a new cap and rotor.. never hurts to change it anyways though... You really should check the wires on the distributor cap. It wouldn't hurt to do a compression test on each of the cyclinders. check with your local auto parts store. They should be able to tell you A - how to do it and B- what you need.

 

BTW... GSMARO you have the distributor vacuum advance on the wrong side of the carb... your prob moving that camaro like a big station wagon with no advanced curve ... Your losing major power with it like that. I know because I had the same carb setup... Also that edelbrock air element didn't work well for me... Your getting the hot air from the motor in the carb.. Look up Specter single air plenum and run the low rise one with a memory pipe up the the front right side of the motor... You'll gain maybe 3 or more horse by doing that...

 

LOL... I almost forgot.. when your at the parts store pick up a timing light cuz you definately need to reset the timing... If your plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor are all new this could be your prob... Also you shouldn't have any vacuum leaks .... To advance the timing you actually have to loosen the bolt under the distributor and turn it left or right.. If I remember correctly to the left (passenger side) increases the timing and the right (drivers side) slows the timing... Turn it to the left with the motor running until it start ticking... then turn it back slowly until you no longer hear the valves ticking.. that should put you close enough to adjust the carb correctly... all the front screws on the carb do is change the air/fuel mixture on the left or right side of the motor...

 

Ok, thanks, I'll check with autozone since I should be able to rent the tools there. I looked all over the motor to check for any more vacuum leaks, just couldn't find any, I put a plate over the EGR Valve hole, replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor on it before looked fine, was going to change it, but it wouldn't come off, so I left it, I didn't want to run into any other issues at the moment. I really can't get it to run long enough if I do, it will chug at about 500 reps, sometimes slightly lower and eventually stall out.

Another thing someone mentioned and he said I should mention it, but I'm sure you guys will say timing or something to that effect, but when it is running, the carb will spit fuel out of the carb, especially on the initial pedal press and periodically while the motor is running or when I bring it up too 1500 - 2500, I haven't reved it passed that point.

 

either your mixture is too high or your timing is off... I think both because you can't set the mixture without setting the timing first. set the timing then turn the left front carb screw in until you hear the motor bog down.. the two and a half turns out... repeat with the drivers side screw.. should be good right there... then if need be you lower or raise the throttle... but make sure your TIMING is set first.. without that set you will never get it right...

 

I got a quick question, if the timing is too advanced or too retarded, would it cause the car to stall and possibly make it really hard to start. I mean, it won't start on it's own I usually have to pump the gas once or twice even sometimes three, it will then rev and come down too about 500 and blub blub blub blub consistantly. If I were to set the timing without starting the car if it has a hard time running, would it be wise?

Also, if the wires were completely off, would it just pop and get nothing out of the motor?