Stalling while stopping after warm up
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 41
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From: near STL in IL
Car: '85 camaro z/28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: stock
Stalling while stopping after warm up
I'm new to Camaros and this forum. My 1985 Camaro z28 has a stock 305 with a 4 barrel carb (stock I believe). The carb was recently rebuilt. Also new cap/rotor/plugs/wires. Compression test was recently done and all is good there.
The car likes to die at stop signs on occasion when it warms up and idles rough when first started. It idles at about 500rpm when warmed up and totally stopped but idles at about 750rpm when coasting (foot totally off of the gas).
I am thinking the idle screw(s) need to be adjusted possibly or maybe the float needs adjusted? If this is the case can someone please inform me how to do so. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to carbureted engines. This is my first post and I hope I can get some good help!! Thanks..
The car likes to die at stop signs on occasion when it warms up and idles rough when first started. It idles at about 500rpm when warmed up and totally stopped but idles at about 750rpm when coasting (foot totally off of the gas).
I am thinking the idle screw(s) need to be adjusted possibly or maybe the float needs adjusted? If this is the case can someone please inform me how to do so. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to carbureted engines. This is my first post and I hope I can get some good help!! Thanks..
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Stalling while stopping after warm up
More likely, the plugs on the bottom of the carb have eroded the fuel bowl casting with dissimilar-metal corrosion, and they now leak fuel mercilessly right straight from the bottom of the fuel bowl right directly into the intake, and driven extra-hard by the engine vacuum sucking on them. Pretty commonplace really.
Pop the carb off, take out the 4 rear-most screws (about 4" long) holding the air horn to the throttle plate, flip it over, take out the rest of the throttle plate screws. Rotate the throttle plate off to the side and off of the accel pump linkage.
You'll see 2 little "tower" looking features near the front of the carb, each of which has 2 little tiny spun-in plugs that fill holes that were used during the process of drilling the various passages in the fuel bowl. NOT the 2 big ones near the center of the carb that are about the size of a dime. (or maybe you won't... maybe they'll be so gunked up they're invisible, but not to worry, they're down in there somewhere) They're leaking.
Proper procedure is, tear down the carb, clean it in the brown thick corrosive carb cleaner then lacquer thinner, STERILIZE the whole area around them with clean thinner, wire-brush all that down to shiny metal, STERILIZE it again with more clean new thinner, epoxy over them with JB Weld or similar, and bake it in the oven at "warm" for a coupla hours to set up the epoxy, then put the carb back together EXACTLY as it was, WITHOUT DISTURBING ANY ADJUSTMENT WHATSOEVER. I cannot emphasize strongly enough, this requires REPAIR, at which point the original factory adjustments will once again be PERFECT. Any attempt to "adjust" around a broken carb will only render the carb that much harder to restore to working condition, so DON'T change ANY "adjustments".
Pop the carb off, take out the 4 rear-most screws (about 4" long) holding the air horn to the throttle plate, flip it over, take out the rest of the throttle plate screws. Rotate the throttle plate off to the side and off of the accel pump linkage.
You'll see 2 little "tower" looking features near the front of the carb, each of which has 2 little tiny spun-in plugs that fill holes that were used during the process of drilling the various passages in the fuel bowl. NOT the 2 big ones near the center of the carb that are about the size of a dime. (or maybe you won't... maybe they'll be so gunked up they're invisible, but not to worry, they're down in there somewhere) They're leaking.
Proper procedure is, tear down the carb, clean it in the brown thick corrosive carb cleaner then lacquer thinner, STERILIZE the whole area around them with clean thinner, wire-brush all that down to shiny metal, STERILIZE it again with more clean new thinner, epoxy over them with JB Weld or similar, and bake it in the oven at "warm" for a coupla hours to set up the epoxy, then put the carb back together EXACTLY as it was, WITHOUT DISTURBING ANY ADJUSTMENT WHATSOEVER. I cannot emphasize strongly enough, this requires REPAIR, at which point the original factory adjustments will once again be PERFECT. Any attempt to "adjust" around a broken carb will only render the carb that much harder to restore to working condition, so DON'T change ANY "adjustments".
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 598
Likes: 2
From: Hampton, Virginia
Car: 87 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 305 LG4 w/ E4ME carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
It sounds like you're carb is really close. You could check out your carb as already suggested (possible). Look for vacuum leaks. After that you could search on TPS adjustment.
With rpms adjusted as close as your carb is adjusted, I'd be careful to understand your carb well before changing anything.
With rpms adjusted as close as your carb is adjusted, I'd be careful to understand your carb well before changing anything.
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MikkoV
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Sep 9, 2015 04:25 PM







