There is a red "clippy-thingie" (for lack of a better term) on the choke that is making the large butterfly valve stick; then, when I start it on a cold morning, it idles at 1500 rpm and won't kick down unless I open the hood, take off the breather, and push the damn thing down manually. The carb is brand new and SHOULD NOT BE BETRAYING ME LIKE THIS!!! Any ideas on how to remedy this would be greatly appreciated.

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"If you ever drop your keys into a river of molten lava, let'em go, because, man, they're gone." - Jack Handey

[This message has been edited by 85firechicken (edited March 29, 2001).]

 

I had similar problems when I put mine on too. I actually removed a small screw from the passanger side that is under the choke and can only be removed by taking the carb off.

Also, check your timing and those two idle screws on either side of the primary fuel bowls towards the bottom. I have mine a little more then 1 1/2 turns out and it likes that best. I now idle around 900 rpms in park, so it can be fixed!

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

That's exactly what it's supposed to do. It would be broken if it didn't do that. There's a thermostat somewhere in the system that is holding the blades closed, and when the blades are closed, the fast idle cam (the red thing) is lifted up to where the steps on the bottom of it hit the fast idle adjust screw and hold the throttles open.

You can adjust the fast idle speed screw which is below the plastic cam if it idles up too high. I think it's 5/16"; you can get to it with t little open-end wrench without having to take it off.

Does the choke come off and the idle return to normal after it's been running for a few minutes? Is this an electric choke, or a "divorced" choke, or what?

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

The fast idle cam is somehow getting stuck on the stud where the electronic gizmo (I'm not too terribly techy when it comes to carbs, I know enough just to put it on, sorry ) mounts to the side of the carb. I physically have to push it down, even after warming up. I don't see a way to adjust it to keep it from riding up so high.

 

That is for some sort of choke thing I think... and if I am thinking of the same thing, is exactly why I had to remove the screw too...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Hmmm.... sounds like some part of the linkage is binding, maybe bent...

The way it works, is that the thermostat closes the choke blade, and there's a lilttle piece of that linkage that sits underneath the fast idle cam and lifts it up when the choke is closed. The fast idle cam itself should move smoothly if you prop the throttles open enough to get them off of it. The blade (which is directly connected to the thermostat) should move freely, with however much or little spring tension is applied depending on the temperature.

Check the simple stuff like that and see if you can figure out exactly which part of the system is actually hanging up.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

You have 12V of power going to the choke right? When you force the red thing down, is the choke blade all the way open. If the choke is still partway shut, the choke thinks the carb is still cold and is causing the fast idle. Check for 12V of power, and adjust the choke so it is just barely shut in the morning.


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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro