ltngrods

I had a 84 Trans Am and a 87 GTA many years ago. Im looking to buy a 91-92 Camaro RS or Z28. What things should I look for that convertible specific? Also any leads on a 91-92 White Camaro would be appreciated.

thanks
Christopher

ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

I would say the basic things you would look for with any convertible which would be the top leaking which would cause rust and body flex because of the lack of a fix top or roll cage which would cause alot of shakes and rattles.

IROCZ28KevinZ

iTrader: (2)

Convertibles don't have much shake from the factory. and I have never seen or been in a thirdgen that didn't rattle itself apart lol. Basically, of upmost importance is checking all the vert-specific parts to make sure they are all there and in good shape. These include:

-trunk lid
-tonneau cover
-trunk spoiler and side pieces
-rear interior panels
-b pillar seat belt trim
-top of winshield plastic trim
-front of top latch trim
-little thin door jamb trim
-the top and top frame
-top weatherstripping
-all 4 seat belts
-tonneau cover release solenoids
-a-pillar trim

Now some of that stuff you can use t-top or coupe parts for and just modify them like ASC did. For example, the third brake light is the same one found on 85-92 cars that had the little ducktail rear spoiler. The thin door jamb trim can be made if you get that identical piece from a donor car and just trim it to fit. If the seat belts themselves are good but the female ends are bad, they are the same as a coupe. The trunk weatherstripping is hatchback weatherstripping, just cut down to size. The a pillar trim are t-top ones with the top part cut off. If you get a car that has the plastic trunk liners, you can take the trunk area trim from a coupe and cut it to fit. But most everything else is vert specific, and a PITA to find at times.

With the top, most of the ones I have seen other than the low-mileage show cars have a cloudy, faded rear plastic window. This can be fixed by a shop or yourself if you can pull the top and sew a new one in. With the frame, make sure all nuts and bolts are there and make sure there aren't any cracks in the frame. It's only cast aluminum, which can give out over time. As far as everything else, as long as it's not cracked and stuff, then you should be ok.

Everything else like the drivetrain and accessories etc are all just standard stuff you'd look over if you were buying any car. So do that and you should be all set!

ltngrods

Thanks guys for the info, Im noticing that most of the interiors im seeing dont wear to well. The driver seat is expected, but one with 100K usually need alot more. Im still hunting though.

Christopher

travlone

Please bare with me I signed up 5 mins ago & do not know how to work this yet I have an 89 Iroc Vert 305 700R4 My tonneau release solenoids have stopped working when I activate the switch it does activate the solenoid when the switch is activated should there be power in the yellow wire exiting the switch?

Trick414

Since you stated you are new, let me give you a few pointers. These aren't meant to be nasty, just honest help.

1. Search for similar problems. The search button is up on top of the forum.

2. Start a new thread if your search doesn't turn up anything for you. Don't jump off-topic on somebody else's thread.

3. Do you have an electric trunk pull-down? If you have an electric pull-down... and it doesn't work, we need to start there, as there is some dependency between the trunk and the solenoids.

--Trick414

mikeiaz

I would suggest trying to find a nice 92 - I have owned a 92 RS cvt and now am second owner of 49k mile Z28 cvt. As opposed to the earlier years, the 92s were assembled using some assembly techniques used for the next body style, mainly industrial adhesives, and they have higher structural rigidity - neither of mine ever succumbed to shake rattle and roll, and my current one (w top up) only rattles if I go over something like RR tracks.

If you can find one with a good top and back window that will save you about a grand for someone to replace it. Weatherstrip pieces for rear bow to deck and around door windows are available but not inexpensive. The plastic molded windshield header will likely be crakced around screw holes and visor mount, not to worry they all do that, just make sure it is intact - the molded piece on the underside of the front top bow is another matter entirely - someone just tried to sell an NOS one on EABY for $400, they are nonexistenet so make sure it is there, even if you need to do some glueing/patching on its backside. The rear spoiler pieces (two sides and rear center) are specific to the convert, make sure they are in good shape. Seatbelt guides in front likely will be shot, not a problem as they are same for all bodies. There are 2 little trim ends/extensions, blk plastic, at front edges of hard tonneau, make sure they are there, also pretty much nonestent if you need them. Others I am sure will disagre with me but in regular driving I don't think there is much seat of the pants difference between the RS V8 and the Z28 5.0. Good luck.