Ok I'm getting ready to sell my car if I cant get it to run cooler..I really dont want to sell it because I have put so much time and money into it..Anyways the engine is a 350 bored .060 over to a 360, the whole engine is basically stock no high performance stuff yet, it has a new water pump, dual elctric fans that i have hooked to a toggle and are on all the time, i was thinking i may need a bigger radiator, i bought a brand new alum. rad. but its only a single row, it was supposed to be the stock replacement or something...I have tried a 160,180, 195 stat all same results, i pulled the stat out and now it just takes a lil longer for it to heat up..i know the guage isnt 100% accurate because when i turn the fans on it jumps up about 15* and when i turn it off it goes down about the same, but after i drive it and pop the hood the water will be boiling in the overflow bottle. the air dam is intact and in good shape, the rad. car is 16lbs stock is 15....I am about out of ideas, and money..I'm thinking that either it is a cracked head but it doesnt smoke nor have i noticed any coolant in the oil...could i be missing something totally stupid? If so what is it?

 

Well, I hate to even bring this up but I had the very same problem. I Have a 1984 Z28 with a 355 on NO2. When I first installed the NO2 I wasn't aware that i had to have 4# to 5# of fuel pump pressure at WOT. I detonated the eng. and blew the head gasket on #2 cyl. I was unaware of this happening until the eng. started to overheat (hot combustion gases being blown into the coolent). I looked into the res. and there was foam and boiling coolent. Well you can figure out the rest of the story.

Auggie

 

so basically you think I have a blown head gasket? That sucks! i really dont feel like tearing apart even the top half of the motor again...is there any way to tell which head it is?

 

Well, I'll tell you what it was not easy to track down but I got lucky. First of all I did a comp. test and every thing was ok. I drove it some more and it still did the same thing. I guess I was just hoping. So next I did a cyl. leakage test and thats when it showed up. I screwed the tester into #2 cyl and pored the air to it. That cyl had 7% leakage (which was ok) but I heard this bubbling noise. I looked around but could not pin it down. Then I removed the rev. cover and sure enough bubbles were comming out of the coolent in the rev. It must have taken a while for the air to leak past the head gasket (eng. was cold) and pressurize the system and pop the rad. cap.. It was lucky that I was leaning over the coolent rev. because the noise wasn't that loud. I called Fel-Pro and they said to use head bolt washers and torque the head bolts (oiled) to #65. Let the car sit 36 hr and retorque the head bolts. The reason for the wait is because of their composition (.049") head gaskets. Well its many years and many N02 shots later with no problems. Knock on wood.

Auggie

 

I dont know about your double electric fans, I dont know how much air they move or how much power they have, but my expirience with electric fans is this: I bought a high performance one once, was supposed to move more air than a mechanical one. but in the end I found that it was no match for fan powered by a 200hp engine....... of course I could be wrong, but thats just my bad expirience with electric fans.