KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Future reference,
go here: http://www.wellsve.com/custom_search...hp?showall=yes
for a list of different switches.
Use part number as search on Autozone website. Boom.

fireburdluvr85

why do you want it on so early? oil temps need to get to 200* to boil moisture and other crap out. the coolant temp should always be close to the oil temp. just a thought for those that want there engines ice cold. should just get the fan switch from a 86 or 87 grand national. turns on at 202* or something. i havent gone over 205 since i installed it during the late spring. its also a direct bolt in or screw in a should say.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Moisture evaporates at around 33* F. Unless it is mixed with other fluids. But technically at around 120*, is hot enough for moisture to vaporize and get extracted via PCV valve.

DAREDEVIL 1

If u realy think so , then try it !!!!

To burn moisture out of anything u need a minimum of 212 degree farenheit, which is 100 degree celsius !!!

DAREDEVIL 1

220 was actually factory to turn on....and how do u know its getting to hot.

People always believ theyr temp gauge ( these thing are OFF big time ) !

Check the temp when hot with a laser temp gun and compare to your gauge to find out how acurate it realy is !!!

If your engine is not atleast 200+ u will get moisture in the engine which will not go away !!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Try this. Get a wet rag and put it in a bowl and cover it. Get another wet rag and put it aside but in the open. Wait for about 24 hours. Now check them both. Which one do you think would be dry? The one enclosed or the one outside? Try it! My point is moisture in the engine stays in there because there is no sir current or outlet for the moisture to escape. So if it does evaporate, depending on the atmospheric temperature, it may condense inside the engine and drip back down into the oil. Besides, water doesn't mix with engine oil. So he best time that the water/moisture can escape the oil would be when the water/oil is agitated when the oil is squirted out of the pushrod and rocker. And yes, water does evaporate off of oil IN AN OPEN ENVIRONMENT just above 33*, just doesn't seem like it when the situation involves a sealed enclosure such as a engine block. Try it!

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I don't drive my cars daily.
They stay in the heated garage in winter but I run the ballz off of them in the summer.
I dont need the extra heat for my comfort either.(summer only)
Because I want all my 3rdgen cars to run that cool. They make more power that way.
I run thinner oil so I dont need it to get hot to move the oil easy. Idon't run the cars hard till they have warmed up.
My oil temps run around 190 when Im running it HARD.plenty hot
Its very hard for coolant thats as warm as the oil to pull heat out when your playing.(with factory oil coolers)they do aid oil warm up tho.
A lil moisture gets sucked out of the motor oil every time you run it.
its when they sit outside in the winter and you take short 2-3 block trips when you have probs.
As you have guessed they aren't stock.





Now, does anyone make the switch I asked about cheaper?
I'll buy 4 more hypercraps for my other cars if I HAVE 2 but I was just wondering if there are any cheaper thats just as good.

DAREDEVIL 1

I think now your talking about 2 diffenrent things here

THE ENGINE IS SEALED AND THEREFOR NEEDS AT LEAST 212 DEGREE TO GET THE MOISTURE OUT !!!!

And 33 degree...come on...its the airflow that will dry it not the temp !!!!!

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

The crankcase has airflow though it when the motor is running. which means its not sealed. plus most of the time a exhaust valve will be open when the motor is off , letting air and moisture in the motor.

scroll down for a pic of vac/pcv diagram
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacu...pi-153208.html

fresh air(and some moisture) also comes in the Tbody and heads to a valvecover and through the motor where it meets with..
Oil,gas and water vapor which are sucked up through the pcv valve (and related systems), burned and goes right out the tailpipe.

So what temp does a dehumidifier need to run @ to pull moisture out of the air? ( i don't know? anyone?)
I hope not 212degs or id be using it as a heater..

Just the other day I had ice on my driveway that was disappearing. the temp was 30degs. it was also a lil windy.
so even at 30degs the ice was melting and the water was disappearing.. Id say mostly because of airflow.
maybe Im wrong here?

I forgot to add, the temps transfered through the pistons (to crankcase air) from the combustion chamber should be waay more than enuff heat to burn off any moisture still present.

all of my cars are 100,000 plus miles and most are pushing 300,000 hard miles.
Only milkshake I've ever had in a motor was when the block cracked and leaked coolant in the oil in my DD quad 4 grand am.

DAREDEVIL 1

U know what...WHATEVER !!!!

I run my raceboat,racecar and camaro ..the way its right
If u think 33 degrees is enuff then go right ahead.i am tired of trying to explain what makes sense..and yes there is airflow in the engine ..because its kind of like a pump..( its a very moist airflow BTW )..but if u think it gets the moisture burned out ..watch out for the milkshake on top of your rockers !!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Milk shake only occurs when there is a coolant leak by means of a blown head gasket of cracked block.

DAREDEVIL 1

u need to learn a lot !!!!!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS !!!!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Ice never evapoates because the H20 molecules are held together. Now once the temp goes above 32*, the water molecules began to vibrate very slowly, but just enough for the kenetic energy of the molecules to "jump" off or seperate from the other molecules. The faster the molecules are moving, the faster the evaporation occures. So the colder, the slower, the hotter, the faster. Thats why a puddle lasts a long time in the cold compaired to a puddle in the summer. Now as for airflow, it helps the molecules to jump off the body of water much more quickly because of the pressure that the wind is creating compaired to a body of water in the same exact location, temp, and setting, but without air pressure. Besides, when did I say that there is no airflow when the engine is running? Pay attention. My explaination is when the engine is not operating. When have you heard of an engine that runs at 33*? One more time . If you're gonna try to sound smart, make sure you know what your talking about before you make yourself feel . TTOP350,

DAREDEVIL 1

AGAIN, u need to learn a lot !!!!!
the only one that wants to sound smart on this board is u !!!!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS !!!!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Hell, Im looking for a 190* on 180* off.

DAREDEVIL 1

I found this ...close enuff ?????


http://www.partzfinder.com/180_degre.../thg-zfswf.htm

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Nice! Thanks DD. I may go for this one. Here are the specs guyz:

• Used with gauges. 3/8"-18 dryseal thread.
• One 1/4" blade terminals.
• Replaces: 8993146, 8993164, 25036135, 8992508 Valley Forge: TS-78 General: 2647 General: TS-76 3/8" pipe
• Screws into front of SBC intake manifolds, requires adapter to fit into BBC intake manifolds.
• Turn on @ 180* with 170* shut-off

fireburdluvr85

now i did not mean to start an arguement. we all have different opionions. in my current car i run a 204* switch. in my last i had it come on at 170* but that was a much more potent 406. i never thought of the 33* evaporation theory so thank you for the refresh in science 101. if you note most factory tbi cars turn on the temp at 239*. the last switch i had was 249* but it was a 92 tpi switch iirc. these are all stock and have to pass emmision and other government crap. sir your motor from the outside is most certainly not stock. no need to divulge more on the details. now back to topic does anybody know a factory switch that will work for his particular criteria? lets pull all our knowledge and see if we can find him a stock switch for some vechicle that turns on reliably at 170*?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

keep ur thanks. I don't need. By the way, why are you bringing up an old argument?

DAREDEVIL 1

I dont need no thanks either ..lol


Technically H2O does start to burn off above 32 F but not in the way (terminology) most people think about. It begins to evaporate from ice @32F, & is changing from a solid to a liquid & to a gas all in the matter of less than 1 degree, but we don't see it as being burnt off till it dissappears into steam at 212 F. It's just a matter of symantics.

DAREDEVIL 1

Did u get your fan switch ???

i just stuck a 190 in mine ..works perfect !!!!!

but again, here in florida in the summer i am counting on seeing between 200-220 with this !!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

DD. Merry Christmas bro. Nah. I haven't gotten it yet. So you found a 190* switch? Where did u fimd it at?

DAREDEVIL 1

I actually bought it from a member here,,but like 6 month ago...just never had the time to mess with it .

but i seen the same one online somewhere..i will check later.

OH yeah, merry X-mas !

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Cool. Yeah bro. All I need to know is a part number if u can find one. Ill try on my side to find one. Thanks for the help DD.

DAREDEVIL 1

I think its this one..but it said on mine 190 on / 175 off !!!!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCI-75099/

DAREDEVIL 1

maybe this would work for ya

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HY...5&autoview=sku

SanAntonio3

I've been trying to find and purchase a fan switch, such as the one on Post #1. The FS4. I have a 1989 Camaro RS 305 with a single fan. The engine I swapped with a 305 off of a 1993 Caprice. Everything fit the same, exept on the '93 where the fan switch goes there is a plug threaded onto the engine with a sqaure type bit insert. I know I need to remove that, but first I need to find this switch. Anybody have an idea where to find it, and possibly a good part number. I took the GP Sorensen FS4 part number to Advance, and the guy there couldnt find it.

DAREDEVIL 1

Go to NAPA, but any fanswitch posted here should actually work.....

dont u have your old one anymore ?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Call autozone. Tell them the part number. Their system can cross reference almost any part.

SanAntonio3

The switch on the old motor was melted. I will try calling Autozone. Thanks for the help.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

did the engine ever overheat? Never heard of such a part being melted.

SanAntonio3

the old motor did. what happened was that i had a bad piston ring. when that gave out, radiator fluid started turning black. When it finally locked up and i drained the oil, radiator fluid came out of the oil pan.

Killerz187

iTrader: (1)

I have a few more part numbers, for those that still haven't found an adequate fan switch. You might have to call up your local Napa to see if they have them.

MPE FS111SB $8.78 On 245-Off 229

MPE FS112SB $13.48 On 229-Off 213

ECH FS111 $11.78 On 220-Off 204

ECH FS112 $20.19 (Yikes!) On 229-Off 213

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Since we're on the subject of radiator fan switches, has anyone ever opened one of these things up to see whats inside? My freind did a while back (bad switch) and explained that there is a rubbery round thing that expands when a certain temperature is reached which pushes down on a push-button activating the fans. Its pretty simple but also clever. Just thought I'd mention that incase anyone ever wondered.

Phoenix

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

HHMMM, Never thought of doing it before. I do know the the EGR temp sensor works on the same principle, heating up and then grounding itself. But inside the EGR temp sensor, there is like a needle that tends to bend depending on the temperature. Ive never heard of rubber being used because of its expanding capabilities. Does rubber expand with heat?

The_Phoenix

iTrader: (3)

Actually, rubber expands when cooled but contracts when heated. My buddy had mentioned to me thats its a rubber piece but bieng that heat expands it, its most likely made of some other type of material. Its crazy how the EGR temp sensor works on almost the same concept; I would of thought it worked exactly as the radiator fan switch did. Luckily I still have my EGR temp sensor but it isn't hooked up completely so I have no idea if it works or not and the thought of them bieng discontinued really sucks. Anyway we now continue to our regularely scheduled broadcast .

Later,
Phoenix

cHEVy hEAVy

iTrader: (1)

what about a manual fan switch? anybody have any experience with wiring up one?

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

nvm

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

Ah, found it. Check out post #16 on this thread for a good way to do it if that's what you want to do
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...wont-turn.html

cHEVy hEAVy

iTrader: (1)

thank you. thats exactly what i needed. i appreciate it

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

y do u want to do a ghetto mod? I would HIGHLY suggest you not to do it. For one, you'll severely shorten the life of your coolant fan, and second, don't do the lazy mans job. Let the ECM control the fan. Let the primary and secondary do the work. If you forget to turn on the fan after testing, you'll be sorry when you crack the heads. Take pride in your car. Don't treat it like if there is no way to fix it.

cHEVy hEAVy

iTrader: (1)

well honestly, its because im not exactly sure why my fan isent working anymore. when i bought it the wires were cut to the fan, so i put wire connecters on them and re-attched them, then wrapped both wires in electrical tape, followed by the plastic wire cover that they have under the hood to protect wires. it worked fine for over a year and now my fan wont even turn on when i have the A/C on. i dont really have the access to the tools or space to work on my car. i live in an apartment complex that dosent really allow people to work on their own cars. & i cant afford to have some shop charge me triple what it should cost to be fixed

Dennis-Z28

iTrader: (1)

Can someone help?

I have a stock 305 motor and I went to replace the coolant temp/fan switch but parts store did not have one except on 200, off at 185.

Questions:
1) Should I put this on or should I look for the stock switch?
2) What are the pros/cons of a cooler engine? 220 to 195 seems like a big change.
3) Would I also change the stock 195 thermostat to a 180?
4) Also not sure about when the primary fan turns on (220?). If I made the changes would I need to change my primary? or would it just become my secondary as its setting will now be the highest?

compwrench

What parts store?, personally I like mine cooler but "they" say it is more efficient at 220 than 190 but most of us aren't trying to milk every tenth of a hp out of it. I don't drive mine to save gas either which is the other consideration for efficiency, not to mention having to make govt standards. I give mine a little bit of extra timing advance which probably makes it hotter but mine is an 87 305 with a carb that I put a 350 in with all the same engine controls. I only have a single fan so I cant speak of exactly how the dual fans work but if I can buy a cheaper stock switch rather than a $40 one from jegs that would be cool. I didn't have an overheat problem untill I put the 350 in it but that was down south in Texas in summer at 110 deg ambient in traffic. Up here in NC it has been fine but I still want to switch the fan on sooner.

4U2ENVY

I just bought one of these and it came in the mail today. I have the natorious "overheat problem" as well and mine will get into red zone if sitting at a light. Fan kicks on but very late so im trying this in hopes it will take care of it. Anyone use this and have good results?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I use that switch with a 160 deg t-stat. It makes the secondary (A/C controlled) fan the primary and ecm controlled fan the primary,If you dont change settings in the chip.
My car as only hit 170-175 on super hot days doing this.
Its a aluminum headed 400ish motor.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Autozone sells an Adjustible Temp Switch just under $20. But you have to buy a relay because the Temp Switch kit doesnt supply the relay.

eseibel67

Here are some part numbers that are easier to find locally:

Standard Motor Products part #

TS136 - closes 204 degrees
TS85 - closes at 211 degrees
TS147 - closes at 222 degrees

I have the factory dual fan setup with a 180 degree stat, and the TS85 works perfectly for the secondary fan. Comes on in traffic, and shuts off when you get moving. I would be afraid to use the TS136 because it would be running a LOT.

90FirebirdTA

Ok my fans, dont come on at all. I dont have a/c or anything. I dont really care about the ac but would just buying one these fix my fan problem? It gets frustrating when the car starts to overheat when sitting still=/ I have a 90 firebird

Mastiff

I know this is an ancient thread, but does anyone have a little more detail on these parts? I don't have Advance Auto around here. The FS1 or FS4 is looking good for my second fan and not as expensive as the alternatives. I'm looking for enough info so I can see the part on-line before I walk in and confuse the guy. Or maybe an OEM application. Thanks.