Cooling Discuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.

aluminum 1 row vs. 3 row brass

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Old Jun 24, 2004 | 05:43 PM
  #1  
berlinettakid's Avatar
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From: Washington, Iowa
Car: 86 T/A, 86 z28, 79 berlinetta, 69 chevelle (totally rusted)
Engine: 350's in the f-bodys. 327 in the works for the T/A, MIGHT go with a 383, none in the chevelle
Transmission: T/A has a 5-speed, z28 has a 700-r4, th-350 in the 79' (5 or 6-speed soon), and none in the chevelle
aluminum 1 row vs. 3 row brass

So which one would cool better? Obviously aluminum disapates heat quicker, but from what I've been told the more rows the better. SO 3 row brass Vs. 1 row aluminum???

I JUST bought the aluminum one so I hope it's the better choice.

Car was running hot...like 240+ but at idle it would run around 185-190. Old radiator had some corrosion, and a few bent up fins. I haven't driven it yet since I got the new radiator, so I'm hoping this fixes it.

Last edited by berlinettakid; Jun 24, 2004 at 05:45 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2004 | 03:04 PM
  #2  
CaptPicardsZ28's Avatar
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Re: aluminum 1 row vs. 3 row brass

Originally posted by berlinettakid
So which one would cool better? Obviously aluminum disapates heat quicker, but from what I've been told the more rows the better. SO 3 row brass Vs. 1 row aluminum???

I JUST bought the aluminum one so I hope it's the better choice.

Car was running hot...like 240+ but at idle it would run around 185-190. Old radiator had some corrosion, and a few bent up fins. I haven't driven it yet since I got the new radiator, so I'm hoping this fixes it.
I had a custom 3 core rad built for my 406 and it cooled fine. I switched to griffin cuz I will be racing the car soon. Otherwise, I didnt need to really. The aluminum rads have more cooling surface over the tubes and dissipate heat. Brass does well too. There is a reason why race car drivers use aluminum. Its not just because they dissipate heat better. There is more cooling surface.
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Old Jun 27, 2004 | 03:27 PM
  #3  
berlinettakid's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Washington, Iowa
Car: 86 T/A, 86 z28, 79 berlinetta, 69 chevelle (totally rusted)
Engine: 350's in the f-bodys. 327 in the works for the T/A, MIGHT go with a 383, none in the chevelle
Transmission: T/A has a 5-speed, z28 has a 700-r4, th-350 in the 79' (5 or 6-speed soon), and none in the chevelle
Thanks, I should probably add that its a new FACTORY aluminum radiator. I know a griffin or be cool would cool better, but a factory aluminum one?

I also don't have my front air deflector thing on, and the car only over heats when you're driving, at idle it cools down. I'm thinking this is whats doing it. I'm getting the air dam/deflector from a guy tonight so I hope that takes care of it.
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Old Jun 27, 2004 | 03:30 PM
  #4  
CaptPicardsZ28's Avatar
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by berlinettakid
Thanks, I should probably add that its a new FACTORY aluminum radiator. I know a griffin or be cool would cool better, but a factory aluminum one?

I also don't have my front air deflector thing on, and the car only over heats when you're driving, at idle it cools down. I'm thinking this is whats doing it. I'm getting the air dam/deflector from a guy tonight so I hope that takes care of it.
Gotta have the air dam...it was designed mainly for cooling during highway driving but needs to be there.
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Old Jun 28, 2004 | 09:18 PM
  #5  
black89ws6's Avatar
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From: Concordia, MO, USA
Car: 89 Formula, WS6
Engine: LB9/peanut cam :(
Transmission: 700R4
Fix the airdam. It is most definitely the cause of your problems.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 08:45 PM
  #6  
AM Racer's Avatar
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From: Northern Illinois
Heating up while driving and cooling down when idle, may also be a missing or rusted out spring in the lower hose.
fire up the engine and watch the lower hose as you raise the rpm. It should stay round.
I've come across several of these already.
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