Cooling Discuss all of the aspects of cooling that you can think of! Radiators, transmissions, electric fans, etc.

lt1 radiator

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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #1  
lt1g3n's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 91
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From: Chicago
Car: 1983 Camaro
Engine: Lt1 (383 project)
Transmission: 700R4
lt1 radiator

I heard that i could use my 3rd gen radiator for the lt1 motor that i put in it, is this true? Is there anything that needs to be altered ? the trans lines hook up fine since im still using my 700r4 and stuff. what other things are there other than hooking up the hoses? Can it handle it?

Thanks.

Dave
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Old Jun 29, 2004 | 10:58 PM
  #2  
Dave Y's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 676
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From: Detroit, Michigan
Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
this is someone elses, but it works



You can use your stock thirdgen radiator to make things bolt up much easier.
You can IM me with questions if you'd like...My SN is Thirdgen Camaro.
About the cooling setup, It's not very difficult to figure out. You can
EASILY reuse your existing radiator and fan setup...you just run your
lines slightly differently. Here're the pieces you need:

'94 corvette lower radiator hose
'95 Camaro Z28 upper radiator hose
3/8" brass coupling
18" 3/8" ruber cooling line
6' 5/8" heater hose
6' 3/4" heater hose
assorted hose clamps
Two caps for about a 5/8" tube.

Here's how you need to run this using the stock radiator: use the 'vette lower
radiator hose to connect the radiator to the gooseneck on the LT1 water pump.
Use the Camaro upper radiator hose to connect the radiator to the LT1 Water
pump. (you may have to grind off a little of your existing radiator shroud, but
it's very minor work). Now on the upper radiator hose, there will be a 3/8" rubber
line kinda splicing off of it. What you need to do with that is take the brass
coupling, put it on, and take the 3/8" extra piece of tubing you bought and
connect it to the brass coupling, therefore extending the tube coming off the
upper radiator hose. Now route that 3/8" hose under the throttle body so it
pokes out past the TB on the passenger side. There you will snake it around and
connect it straight to a metal coolant line that runs along the bolts on the
passenger side of the intake all the way to the back of the heads. That will
eliminate the need for you using the TB to pass coolant, and giving you the
cheap TB bypass mod. Now to route the lines to the heater core. Take 6' of 3/4"
coolant line and run it from the upper port on the water pump all the way to
the 3/4" opening on the heater core. Since you have 6' to play with, you can
route it pretty much anyway the hell you want (they sell pre cut 6' rolls of
this stuff for $3.99 at the auto parts stores). Now take the 5/8" heater hose
and run it from the lower port on the water pump (BTW, both the ports for the
heater core on the water ppump are on the passenger side) and run it all the
way to the 5/8" port on the heater core. Now you have pretty much all the lines
run. This is now an optional/conditional point of the coolant routing. Are you
going to be using the stock LT1 oil cooler? If you are, you will not have to
buy the 2 caps for mentioned in the parts list, but you will have to buy 6 more
feet of 5/8" cooling tubing. There'll be one port one the drivers side of the
waterpump for the oil cooler. You run a hose from that port to the oil cooler,
and a hose from the oil cooler back to the opening in your radiator (which was
originally used as a return from the heater core in a stock setup). If you do
not plan to use the oil cooler, just block the ports on the radiator and waterpump.
You'll be all set. That's the whole cooling setup. Not too hard if you understand
it, and I think I explained it fairly well
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