try to remember that when you run a non-reinforced lower hose (no metal coil inside) that you run the chance of it collapsing while on the highway.

This is the problem, a series of events that the spring was designed to stop:

1. When your hose gets hot and soft and pliable.

2. Then you are driving down the highway at a decent RPM.

3. Then the hose will collapse and "pinch off" the flow of coolant.

4. Make sure that if you remove the metal coil that you remove as little as possible.

5. It still might happen in the spot you removed it.

just some things to think about.

 

dude, yall need to chk out advance auto parts, i bought a stock replacement radiator for $98.

 

Wow I got a deal. I am from Willmar, MN and my sister in law works at Northern. I paid 156.00 for my radiator on the employee plan.

 

i smell a group buy with a employee cookin

 

I agree that is the best route if you are looking for just a replacement, but I am looking for more than that. Want aluminum so it can be polished, plus a bit more cooling capacity. I know about BeCool, but $$$$! This one is a bit easier on the budget while still matching what I want.

B4Ctom1, any chance on the group purchase?

 

possible dumb question:

what is the circled thingy for.

 

2

 

i got mine 31X19 from summit ....their aluminum rad and a b&M supercooler TC for 240 TOTAL shipped ...for less than 300 bucks my car doesnt pass 190* the only reason its passed this mark is bc my fans arent working ...already bought a flexalite fan ready to go in when i get the car back

bye bye heat

 

Diggler86... That's a drain valve. You un screw it and it will let out the water that's in your rad.

On some rads. there's two, so look down around the bottom rad. hose, if there's another one, then 1 is for the auto trans fuild drain, and 1 is for the water/anti frezze drain.

If just 1, then it's for the water/anti frezze.

 

Actually that's a low coolant sender. Digital dash cars might use it, but all aftermarket replacement radiators come with it.