T/B bypass question
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: illinois
Car: '88 GTA,'85 z28
Engine: L98, LB9
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: sleepy 3.23, hello 3.73
T/B bypass question
I don't think it should really matter but this has me wondering.
After resovling many issues with the fan and overheating, the fan would come on around 230-235, according to the guage.
After I replaced the 180 stat with a new 180 stat, I decided to take advantage of having being half way there all ready and ran the t/b bypass.
Ever since, the fan comes on at a higher tiemp 240-250? Coincidence?
As long as the car is moving, life is great, usually under 220. But when in stop and go driving it gets pretty hot as stated, and comes down quickly back to 220 with the fan.
Just wondering if anyone else ahs a similar result after running the bypass.
It's a '85 Z28 305 TPI, single fan, ECM controlled, NO SWITCH. Air damn is in place, man what a difference they make!
After resovling many issues with the fan and overheating, the fan would come on around 230-235, according to the guage.
After I replaced the 180 stat with a new 180 stat, I decided to take advantage of having being half way there all ready and ran the t/b bypass.
Ever since, the fan comes on at a higher tiemp 240-250? Coincidence?
As long as the car is moving, life is great, usually under 220. But when in stop and go driving it gets pretty hot as stated, and comes down quickly back to 220 with the fan.
Just wondering if anyone else ahs a similar result after running the bypass.
It's a '85 Z28 305 TPI, single fan, ECM controlled, NO SWITCH. Air damn is in place, man what a difference they make!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Shouldn't matter. The TB bypass will only keep the TB from having the incoming air warmed. The coolant passage designed for winter or cold driving situations, so you're just changing the heat of the incoming air and maybe a little heat transfer into the metal. If you're still having problems I would consider a manual fan switch or buying another electric fan control switch. You should beable to find them anywhere from 175 to 200+ degrees ON or an adjustable one.
I don't know about everyone else but I just like seeing the car get up to around 180/190 degrees. Course, I don't have to worry about emissions here. I usually start worrying if I get above 210 or 215 degrees.
I don't know about everyone else but I just like seeing the car get up to around 180/190 degrees. Course, I don't have to worry about emissions here. I usually start worrying if I get above 210 or 215 degrees.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
From: illinois
Car: '88 GTA,'85 z28
Engine: L98, LB9
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: sleepy 3.23, hello 3.73
I didin't think it would make much difference either.
I do have to stay emissions friendly and they are getting really pokey up here and looking a little closer at things.
Fan switch is not an option because there isn't one. I was just looking at a adjustable relay unit. From what I gather, it takes the ECM out of the picture by using a temp porbe in place of the CTS and runs independent.
I do have to stay emissions friendly and they are getting really pokey up here and looking a little closer at things.
Fan switch is not an option because there isn't one. I was just looking at a adjustable relay unit. From what I gather, it takes the ECM out of the picture by using a temp porbe in place of the CTS and runs independent.
Last edited by wrightz28; Jun 24, 2005 at 11:35 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




