Please help!!! cooling problem
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
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From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
Please help!!! cooling problem
ok well I took out the therm stat runs cooler longer but still over heats i have a new radiator/flushed the system the waterpump is not leaking at all i can see the water flowing through the radiator fine.After taking the them stat out the heater still works:stupid: I dont get it I thought it wont work unless its in mabey that can give a clue to whats wrongI was also wondering if the cat converter on the exaust is mabey broken up inside would it make it overheat? I do hear a rattle underneath
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 350
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From: denton, tx
Car: 89 rs, bmw 325 is
Engine: 360 (.060) 2.5L inline six
Transmission: 700r4, 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.08 3.? limited slip
thermostat just controls the flow of the coolant system when the advertized temperature is reached. taking out the thermostat just lets the coolant flow freely all of the time. as far as overheating first thing to check is the air dam. though a piece of plastic, it greatly helps the radiator get air from under the car that would normally pass up and flow on the bottom. YOU NEED AN AIR DAM, i still have one even with my 4 core "race radiator" and high flow water pump. as far as i know a bad catalytic converter wouldnt make the engine over heat.
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From: AL,USA
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 95 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Weak 7.5 with 4.10s
A bad converter can make a car overheat. If the converter is stopped up, the exhaust can't get out. This keeps heat in and causes the engine to get hotter.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: denton, tx
Car: 89 rs, bmw 325 is
Engine: 360 (.060) 2.5L inline six
Transmission: 700r4, 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.08 3.? limited slip
wouldnt that make the engine run bad though? i mean if the catalytic converter is stopped up to the point in which it overheats.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Originally Posted by bingo
A bad converter can make a car overheat. If the converter is stopped up, the exhaust can't get out. This keeps heat in and causes the engine to get hotter.
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iTrader: (2)
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From: AL,USA
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 95 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Weak 7.5 with 4.10s
Converters can be partially clogged and restrict flow, this causes excess heat. I have seen several cars that ran fine, but were low on horsepower. The guage could be wrong. Most scantools have a function where you can read temp through the coolant temp sensor. This would tell you the actual temp and if your guage is wrong.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
well it really runs like crap after it warms up i have tolet off the gas to get it to go at first it runs great after 10 min or so it acts up and after it saits for an hour or so it still reads 220 or so 
thanks for the help guys
thanks for the help guys
Originally Posted by k's89rs
wouldnt that make the engine run bad though? i mean if the catalytic converter is stopped up to the point in which it overheats.
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
timing is a good possibility.
also what about your fan(s) are they turning on or is it a mechanical fan?
broken up converters can cause excessive heat in the exhaust as mine just did this last year. but i don't think it would cause the engine to heat up, as said it would just run like crap i had one plug on me while driving.
also what about your fan(s) are they turning on or is it a mechanical fan?
broken up converters can cause excessive heat in the exhaust as mine just did this last year. but i don't think it would cause the engine to heat up, as said it would just run like crap i had one plug on me while driving.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
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From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling prob
yea the fan kicks on ans everything could be a bad heat senser ill find out today going to put it back on the scope last time it showed everything was fine .
Originally Posted by 87CIZ
timing is a good possibility.
also what about your fan(s) are they turning on or is it a mechanical fan?
broken up converters can cause excessive heat in the exhaust as mine just did this last year. but i don't think it would cause the engine to heat up, as said it would just run like crap i had one plug on me while driving.
also what about your fan(s) are they turning on or is it a mechanical fan?
broken up converters can cause excessive heat in the exhaust as mine just did this last year. but i don't think it would cause the engine to heat up, as said it would just run like crap i had one plug on me while driving.
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
put the thermostat back in.
just remember that the thermastat only controls minimum operating temperature and that the temp rating indicated the temperature that it starts to open and not the temperature that it is fully open at.
ex: a 195 thermastat starts to open at 195 and is fully open at about 210-225 its usually about a 15-30 or so difference. and installing a lower temp thermasta is not beneficial really because it does not provide the proper restriction of coolant flow so although your temp gauge may say for example 190 or whatever thats only the temp of the coolant and not the temp of the engine. so the engine block itself can actually be much hotter like around 240 for example and that is much to hot for the block.
so baisically if the coolant is allowed to circulate to fast it cant absorb enough heat from the engine and you start having issues like hot spots developing as well as pre-ignition and detonation and excessive carbon buid up.
just remember that the thermastat only controls minimum operating temperature and that the temp rating indicated the temperature that it starts to open and not the temperature that it is fully open at.
ex: a 195 thermastat starts to open at 195 and is fully open at about 210-225 its usually about a 15-30 or so difference. and installing a lower temp thermasta is not beneficial really because it does not provide the proper restriction of coolant flow so although your temp gauge may say for example 190 or whatever thats only the temp of the coolant and not the temp of the engine. so the engine block itself can actually be much hotter like around 240 for example and that is much to hot for the block.
so baisically if the coolant is allowed to circulate to fast it cant absorb enough heat from the engine and you start having issues like hot spots developing as well as pre-ignition and detonation and excessive carbon buid up.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
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From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
wow ok sounds like u know u r stuff about what temp should my car be running at?it goes to 240 all the time I have tryed everything still not cooling like iy should I hear a rattle around the cat converter just wonder if its all broken up in there causing it to clog up and overheat.
Originally Posted by Green89IROC305
put the thermostat back in.
just remember that the thermastat only controls minimum operating temperature and that the temp rating indicated the temperature that it starts to open and not the temperature that it is fully open at.
ex: a 195 thermastat starts to open at 195 and is fully open at about 210-225 its usually about a 15-30 or so difference. and installing a lower temp thermasta is not beneficial really because it does not provide the proper restriction of coolant flow so although your temp gauge may say for example 190 or whatever thats only the temp of the coolant and not the temp of the engine. so the engine block itself can actually be much hotter like around 240 for example and that is much to hot for the block.
so baisically if the coolant is allowed to circulate to fast it cant absorb enough heat from the engine and you start having issues like hot spots developing as well as pre-ignition and detonation and excessive carbon buid up.
just remember that the thermastat only controls minimum operating temperature and that the temp rating indicated the temperature that it starts to open and not the temperature that it is fully open at.
ex: a 195 thermastat starts to open at 195 and is fully open at about 210-225 its usually about a 15-30 or so difference. and installing a lower temp thermasta is not beneficial really because it does not provide the proper restriction of coolant flow so although your temp gauge may say for example 190 or whatever thats only the temp of the coolant and not the temp of the engine. so the engine block itself can actually be much hotter like around 240 for example and that is much to hot for the block.
so baisically if the coolant is allowed to circulate to fast it cant absorb enough heat from the engine and you start having issues like hot spots developing as well as pre-ignition and detonation and excessive carbon buid up.
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
although it is possible that your cat is broken up inside id atribute the rattle to a broken het shield. under acceleration and bumps it jars loose and contacts the surrounding metal causing a rattling noise.
as far as operation temp goes gm did design our cars to run hot for emissions reasons. their logic is a hotter engine would burn better while although that is true it does lead to other problems.
you do live in a fairly hot climate and that has a big effect on operating temp. what id do and countless others have done is get an aftermarket fan switch that will turn on at a lower temp like 180 or so maybe 190. and put in a thermostat that starts to open about 10 degrees or so before the fan kicks on and see how that works for you. many people have done this hear and had excelent results. as for the where to get one and how to put it in do some searches for fan switch and such, there are numerous threads here on that.
good luck
as far as operation temp goes gm did design our cars to run hot for emissions reasons. their logic is a hotter engine would burn better while although that is true it does lead to other problems.
you do live in a fairly hot climate and that has a big effect on operating temp. what id do and countless others have done is get an aftermarket fan switch that will turn on at a lower temp like 180 or so maybe 190. and put in a thermostat that starts to open about 10 degrees or so before the fan kicks on and see how that works for you. many people have done this hear and had excelent results. as for the where to get one and how to put it in do some searches for fan switch and such, there are numerous threads here on that.
good luck
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
[
quote=Green89IROC305]although it is possible that your cat is broken up inside id atribute the rattle to a broken het shield. under acceleration and bumps it jars loose and contacts the surrounding metal causing a rattling noise.
as far as operation temp goes gm did design our cars to run hot for emissions reasons. their logic is a hotter engine would burn better while although that is true it does lead to other problems.
you do live in a fairly hot climate and that has a big effect on operating temp. what id do and countless others have done is get an aftermarket fan switch that will turn on at a lower temp like 180 or so maybe 190. and put in a thermostat that starts to open about 10 degrees or so before the fan kicks on and see how that works for you. many people have done this hear and had excelent results. as for the where to get one and how to put it in do some searches for fan switch and such, there are numerous threads here on that.
good luck[/quote]
----------
[/quote]
quote=Green89IROC305]although it is possible that your cat is broken up inside id atribute the rattle to a broken het shield. under acceleration and bumps it jars loose and contacts the surrounding metal causing a rattling noise.
as far as operation temp goes gm did design our cars to run hot for emissions reasons. their logic is a hotter engine would burn better while although that is true it does lead to other problems.
you do live in a fairly hot climate and that has a big effect on operating temp. what id do and countless others have done is get an aftermarket fan switch that will turn on at a lower temp like 180 or so maybe 190. and put in a thermostat that starts to open about 10 degrees or so before the fan kicks on and see how that works for you. many people have done this hear and had excelent results. as for the where to get one and how to put it in do some searches for fan switch and such, there are numerous threads here on that.
good luck[/quote]
----------
Originally Posted by troy_durr2000
[ ok i will try that i want to thank u for the help
quote=Green89IROC305]although it is possible that your cat is broken up inside id atribute the rattle to a broken het shield. under acceleration and bumps it jars loose and contacts the surrounding metal causing a rattling noise.
as far as operation temp goes gm did design our cars to run hot for emissions reasons. their logic is a hotter engine would burn better while although that is true it does lead to other problems.
you do live in a fairly hot climate and that has a big effect on operating temp. what id do and countless others have done is get an aftermarket fan switch that will turn on at a lower temp like 180 or so maybe 190. and put in a thermostat that starts to open about 10 degrees or so before the fan kicks on and see how that works for you. many people have done this hear and had excelent results. as for the where to get one and how to put it in do some searches for fan switch and such, there are numerous threads here on that.
good luck
quote=Green89IROC305]although it is possible that your cat is broken up inside id atribute the rattle to a broken het shield. under acceleration and bumps it jars loose and contacts the surrounding metal causing a rattling noise.
as far as operation temp goes gm did design our cars to run hot for emissions reasons. their logic is a hotter engine would burn better while although that is true it does lead to other problems.
you do live in a fairly hot climate and that has a big effect on operating temp. what id do and countless others have done is get an aftermarket fan switch that will turn on at a lower temp like 180 or so maybe 190. and put in a thermostat that starts to open about 10 degrees or so before the fan kicks on and see how that works for you. many people have done this hear and had excelent results. as for the where to get one and how to put it in do some searches for fan switch and such, there are numerous threads here on that.
good luck
Last edited by troy_durr2000; Jul 11, 2006 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
ok will do i will find out soon I hope
Originally Posted by 89rocket
i have an 89 with the 2putt8 and having the same problem. if you get it to stay cooler, let me know, and i will do the same for you
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
is 240 and 250 to hot to run it at? it dont boil over just almost goes to to the red before i turn the heater on
Originally Posted by troy_durr2000
ok will do i will find out soon I hope
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Originally Posted by troy_durr2000
is 240 and 250 to hot to run it at? it dont boil over just almost goes to to the red before i turn the heater on
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
From: michigan
Car: 1985 TransAm
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4 auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BorgWarner
i dont know if the dealer still makes the coolant temp test sticks but there wax sticks designed to melt at a set temp this would be a good way to measure if ur guages are out of wack
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Originally Posted by k's89rs
YOU NEED AN AIR DAM, i still have one even with my 4 core "race radiator" and high flow water pump. as far as i know a bad catalytic converter wouldnt make the engine over heat.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
Originally Posted by Ozz1967
Right there, that says it all. From the description of what's wrong anyway. Also, a new radiator from BeCool will help drop the temp 20-30*...it did in my 84 T/A.
Ok I will try that whats BeCool ill check it out thanks for the info
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Originally Posted by troy_durr2000
Ok I will try that whats BeCool ill check it out thanks for the info
It's a little expensive, but man, just from driving around here in New Mexico and our 100*+ heat it's well worth it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling problem
Ok guys I want to let u know I think I fixed the problem it was the air dam. I want to thank you guys for all the advice now im going to put in a higher them stst like a 195 to help it cool even more.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Originally Posted by troy_durr2000
Ok guys I want to let u know I think I fixed the problem it was the air dam. I want to thank you guys for all the advice now im going to put in a higher them stst like a 195 to help it cool even more.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Las vegas NV.
Car: 87 camaro
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700 with overdrive
cooling
Someone else told me to put a hotter stat in that way the water stays in the radiator longer so i put a 195 in pluse I put in a manual fan switch just did all that lastnight so today on the freeway ill find out thanks for the advice if this dont work ill try the cooler stat have a good one
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Actually, it's the other way around. The longer the thermostat stays closed, the longer the water stays in the motor, thus keeping the heat in the engine. The cooler the thermostat opening temp, the quicker it opens letting the water from the engine into the radiator faster which allows it to cool better...or at least start cooling earlier.
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
I'm glad to hear you got it fixed! These 3rd Gen cars don't have a "Grill" persay...so we need the Air Dam to help pull air up off the road and over the radiator.
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