Ok well I swapped my blown motor for another motor. Only problem is that the new motor doesn't have the temp sending unit on the pass side of the block that controls my single fan. Is there any way to use that wire that is supposed to go to the sensor and maybe ground it so the fan will run? Right now I am looking for the easiest way to get my fan on. It overheats when Im idling in traffic.

 

I feel for you..I have had SEVEREcoolng problems with my 89 bird..I have had 4 radiators...3 water pumps....many hoses etc...As far as your motor fan?Mine is hooked up to where it ALWAYS comes on..when my air gauge inside..is set to bi level....I have not had a heater in many years....nor ac..Which means NO DEFROST..which sucks bad....BUT..He is running like a dreamJust have someone wire it to come on through your vent system...Also,when I got mine..it a had WEIRD contraption underneath the front...it almost touched the ground..NOT in a low rider way either..I know it is detrimental to function.and cooling...but I had to remove it..It was way too low.although I know it cooled the engine....It got SO hot under my hood,that I removed the 'blanket'..that is between the roof and the engine for fear of fire.As I said..I feel for you..been there done that.I also have the strangest transmission..There are times when I heard a nasty knock s l o w l y coming along...my trans went..KAPLOOEAll it needed were torque bolts tightened..It also happened the other day..WITHOUT any noise...I thought,OH CRAP..no noise..I was backing up..went to put it into drive..ZING......No gear anywhere..I really thought it was gone..But HELL no!!!It was a clip...came loose from rumble strips I drive on ..He is running great..I have t tops on mine..cloth interior..NO radio..That sucks pretty bad..Anyhoo..You can wire it to come on....when yuo start it up...GOOD LUCKAlso I recommend CASTROL OIL......Trust me on that one...

 

The sending unit should just screw in. You should be able to swap the one from your old engine.

 

I am an idiot...I thought he was talking about the FAN MOTOR not the Engine itself...There are 'motors' and there are Engines..

 

Might I also recommend red duck tape?And by the way..is there a haunted car section here??

 

you know there is a relay that you can add a jumper onto thereby starting your fan. I did so on my other firebird. The relay should be at the driver side and at the firewall. You should consult the wiring in the service book for it, but I can tell you what mine has. Jumper accross red to black/red on the relay with these wires. It will enable the fan to come on when you start the car. This relay on my car has brown, dark green/white, red and red white wires. The fan comes on when u jumper the red to black/red wires.

 

I suppose that is what I am going to do.. Autozone has pretty good wiring diagrams so I will check it out. Thanks!

 

what is your car? yr model?

 

Its a 91 RS 305 TBI.. Im assuming that connecting the brown wire to the blk/red wire will do the trick. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c15280099156

 

Ok well I didn't hook the fan up to run constant because it is soo loud. I found out that I never put a cooling switch in when I put the engine in. So now with my edelbrock headers it makes it almost impossible to put it in now. Could I just put it in the Intake and put the temp sensor thats there now in the waterneck? Would that work the same?

 

Yes it will work.

 

I've been having the same problem only my motor's original. My fans wouldn't work at all.I just bought my 89 Iroc z 2 days ago and it's been overheating in traffic.I put in a new coolant sensor in the front that's supposed to send info to the computer to turn it on. All it does is turn on the fan for 10 seconds when the car is first started. Anyone have a clue what to check next? If I connect the 2 wires to each other the fan runs constantly and check engine light comes on. However it seems to have fixed my low idle and sputtering problem. Would it be ok to leave it like that? I'd appreciate any feedback.

 

The CTS does more than run the fan, it tells the computer the engine temp so it can properly map the fuel.

 

The coolant fan switch is under the car between the two spark plugs on the passenger side, I think the 6 and 8 cylinders. That particular fan switch turns on the coolant fan and is controlled at around 230 degrees. I have learned that Autozone has one part number SW-505 that turns on at 210 degrees, much quicker cooling. I would try to change that out. It's most likely your problem.

 

Thanks for the info on the cooling fan switch. Unfortunately it's impossible to get to with the Edelbrock headers on it. I've got it rigged to run non stop for now .I know it can't be great since it makes the car run lean all the time. When I get the time I'll pull off the header and change that out.