So here goes....

Since I have NO pressure in the AC system, I decided I better re-do the AC now before it gets hot out. I have 4 small (6oz) cans of Enviro-Safe refrigerant http://www.es-refrigerants.com/produ...an/details.asp, brand new 95*-105* adjustable orifice tube, brand new condenser, brand new accumulator, and new seals for the hard lines. I also have some used hard lines. Basically I pick up parts whenever I can get them cheap, because I'll eventually use them. So I've been collecting the above parts for about 2 years. Well the time has come and I want to do the AC. Only thing, I can turn a wrench, but I really don't know all that much about AC systems. I plan on putting all the above parts in, then take my car over to my step dads garage. He has all the stuff to service the AC system there, that's how I know I have zero pressure in my system now.

So can I just take the old parts out and put the new parts in. Then take it over to his garage? Should I replace the evaporator? I really don't want to because they are pricey, and at this point in time, I'd have to buy one. Do I need more oil? The can says "Use with Mineral, Ester & Pag oils only!" Should I put a can of the stop leak in now?

Pretty much whatever helpful input you have, I'd appreciate it.

 

that refrigerant sounds too good to be true. i would wonder why auto manufacturers don't use it. i would personally use r134a. if someone services your system with a machine it will contaminate their machine. i would flush the evap. and cond. with a/c flush, drain the comp and fill with pag oil and vacuum and charge with 2 cans r134a adding 2oz pag oil between cans.

 

Sorry, but as you read, I already have 4 cans of that refridgerant. I know a lot of guys that run it in their Hotrods including my step dad, so I'm gonna stick with what I already have. So what do I have to do with the compressor? I'll keep it mineral oil for the ease.

 

Enviro-safe is a hydrocarbon (HC) based refrigerant. Propane, butane, and isobutane. The stuff is illegal to convert to from R-12. But legal to convert to from R-134a. That's how they can sell the stuff legally.

Auto makers don't like using the stuff because there is about 50 cents worth of materials in there. Much easier to charge $$$ for R-134a and it's various troubles (non compatible oils with R-12. PAG and POE oils that won't dry out during vacuuming like R-12 mineral oil will. The future problems that arise from non dry systems as a result of that)

HC based refrigerants are used in Europe and Australia without any fanfare. In North America, people are convinced your car will turn into a bomb if you run HC's. (R-12 and it's mineral oil will burn just as much. And R-134a is toxic if inhaled)

Just make sure you measure the amount going into the system. Only need 12 oz of ES-12 to have the equivalent of 2.25 lbs of R-12. No need to replace the evaporator. They rarely break or have problems. Most common problem with evaporators is they smell when people live in humid climates and leave their cars set on MAX A/C all the time when the engine is off. But that can be fixed without removing the evaporator.

It's kind of ironic in a way. Propane based refrigerants are illegal to vent into the air. Supposed to be captured and reclaimed (recycled). Yet it's legal to light your propane BBQ at home with a butane lighter. Go figure.

You'll probably need to add 1-2 oz of oil to the system. There will be about 2 oz sitting in the condensor. 1-2 in the accumulator (which you replaced). Adding extra oil to the system is easy. Taking out oil if you have too much is difficult. You'll hear it if it needs more oil. HC's are nice in that they can use either mineral (R-12 oil) or PAG or POE (both of those are R-134a oils).

 

Thanks for the input Reid! I got 4 cans of it just in case I screw something up. I know I only need 2 cans to fill it up. I did go over to my step dads last night and we got it figured out. He said the same thing, "we will probably need to add 2oz of oil." But he has it in the shop already.

Looks pretty straight foward. I'm gonna put the new parts in, take it over to his shop, and assist him with the rest.

 

The only 2 refrigerants GM recommends are R12 and R134a. The only oils they recommend are mineral oil for R12 and the proper PAG for R134a.

Flammable refrigerants are dangerous, R134a is not that expensive.

No shop will service your A/C with that refrigerant because it has to be reclaimed it is illegal to vent any refrigerant into the atmosphere.

Your playing engineer here and you risk damaging components. Just do a proper conversion to R134a, you have all the stuff anyway, its only 6 bucks a can at walmart.

 

Of course GM recommends these. These are the only refrigerants that they can make big bucks off of. A proper conversion will run several hundreds of dollars. And then you have the incompatibility issue. How are you going to get the chlorine (from old R-12) out of the A/C lines? It'll never flush out. Once PAG or POE hits it, you get sludge. Add into that that PAG and POE are 100x more prone to moisture inhabition compared to mineral oil and you see why R-12 systems lasted 20 years with no servicing, yet R-134a systems break down all the time.



I do agree that flammable refrigerants are dangerous. This is 85% R-12 and 15% mineral oil (the typical ratio found in cars) with an ignition source. Burns pretty good doesn't it? This picture was taken in the days when you could still legally vent R-12.

All the HC blends out there are just as good for the environment as R-134a but are light years better in regards to cooling. Don't have the oil incompatibilities. And should last a long time in a vehicle without issue. 12 oz of propane/butane isn't going to cause a Hindenburg re-enactment.

 

I am doubtful of that picture, back in the day one way you could leak test for R12 was to use a propane torch, it would turn the flame GREEN and it was later found out R12 released a toxic nerve gas when burned and is no longer a recommended way to leak test. I would not want to be those guys If they were burning R12.

That aside GM does not recommend the use of POE/Ester oils or any other refrigerant other than R12 or R134a.

Replacing the accumulator and draining the compressor removes most of the old oil. GM does not recommend any flushing agents. The theory is the PAG oil will just coat over the old oil in the lines.

R134a is perfectably capable of delivering ice cold a/c, I could make snow come out of your vents with it if I wanted to. There's no reason not to use it. As for "all these problems" maybe a lack of proper maintenance? Your accumulator should be replaced every 5 years the desiccant gets saturated and can no longer absorb any moisture.