STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 V8 TBI
STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
Okay, I let it sit over night... Were having more problems...
Heres a vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLbQaQtnmjc
For any who can't watch the vid.. My problem(s) are..
1.Car overheats with only the fan running, while the car isnt started.
2.Trans cooling lines are not hooked up to the radiator, but my trans is not working.
3.Car overheats after 10 minute idle. (hoses are not hot, neither is cap, and i am not boiling coolant) but my block emits lots of heat but its not warm-to-touch.
4. Last but not least, I NEED TO GET THIS CAR ON THE ROAD!!! Im 17 and im paying insurance on it and dumping all my money into it i need for college and to move out!! PLEASE HELP ME GET HER ON THE ROAD!!!
Heres a vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLbQaQtnmjc
For any who can't watch the vid.. My problem(s) are..
1.Car overheats with only the fan running, while the car isnt started.
2.Trans cooling lines are not hooked up to the radiator, but my trans is not working.
3.Car overheats after 10 minute idle. (hoses are not hot, neither is cap, and i am not boiling coolant) but my block emits lots of heat but its not warm-to-touch.
4. Last but not least, I NEED TO GET THIS CAR ON THE ROAD!!! Im 17 and im paying insurance on it and dumping all my money into it i need for college and to move out!! PLEASE HELP ME GET HER ON THE ROAD!!!
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Tx
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI with zz4 heads
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt BW
Re: STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
do this man take the cap off the radiator and turn on the car if you see the water flowing in the radiator at a good flow your water pump is fine if flow suck's then you have a bad water pump
Supreme Member




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 115
From: belle fourche,s.d.
Car: '82 z28
Engine: L83 5.7
Transmission: 700r4-1985
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
if gauge is indicating high temps before the car has
been started that is just a false reading-if the needle
moves up or down when the fan or other electrical load
is switched on,there is a bad ground somewhere or
other electrical fault causing a false reading-id just
ignore the gauge reading if that is the case and let the
engine warm up while keeping an eye out for rumbling
in the block,hot odor, or other evidence of actual
overheating.
Also do not run the car much with the tranny lines
dissconnected and tranny fluid low as the tranny
pump or other parts could eventually be damaged by
running without oil
been started that is just a false reading-if the needle
moves up or down when the fan or other electrical load
is switched on,there is a bad ground somewhere or
other electrical fault causing a false reading-id just
ignore the gauge reading if that is the case and let the
engine warm up while keeping an eye out for rumbling
in the block,hot odor, or other evidence of actual
overheating.
Also do not run the car much with the tranny lines
dissconnected and tranny fluid low as the tranny
pump or other parts could eventually be damaged by
running without oil
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 V8 TBI
Re: STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
if gauge is indicating high temps before the car has
been started that is just a false reading-if the needle
moves up or down when the fan or other electrical load
is switched on,there is a bad ground somewhere or
other electrical fault causing a false reading-id just
ignore the gauge reading if that is the case and let the
engine warm up while keeping an eye out for rumbling
in the block,hot odor, or other evidence of actual
overheating.
Also do not run the car much with the tranny lines
dissconnected and tranny fluid low as the tranny
pump or other parts could eventually be damaged by
running without oil
been started that is just a false reading-if the needle
moves up or down when the fan or other electrical load
is switched on,there is a bad ground somewhere or
other electrical fault causing a false reading-id just
ignore the gauge reading if that is the case and let the
engine warm up while keeping an eye out for rumbling
in the block,hot odor, or other evidence of actual
overheating.
Also do not run the car much with the tranny lines
dissconnected and tranny fluid low as the tranny
pump or other parts could eventually be damaged by
running without oil
your really helpful, but with those lines disconnected should my car still be able to get put in gear? its not shifting and its scaring me
Re: STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
Are you saying its overheating just by looking at the gauge, when nothing under the hood indicates that it is overheating? Gauges on these cars are notoriously crappy, and often read wrong. If theres no sign of overheating under the hood, id say get an aftermarket gauge and check it again.
Also, why do you have the trans lines unhooked? Isnt it pumping your fluid out everywhere? If its not, then youve already smoked your pump.
Also, why do you have the trans lines unhooked? Isnt it pumping your fluid out everywhere? If its not, then youve already smoked your pump.
Supreme Member




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,313
Likes: 115
From: belle fourche,s.d.
Car: '82 z28
Engine: L83 5.7
Transmission: 700r4-1985
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
car will not move if low on tranny fluid-better get those
lines connected and fluid refilled.If you use a regular
open end wrench to tighten the fittings,be careful as
the fittings are prelly soft and might try to round off or
squeeze in...
lines connected and fluid refilled.If you use a regular
open end wrench to tighten the fittings,be careful as
the fittings are prelly soft and might try to round off or
squeeze in...
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: 90' Firebird Formula 350
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: STILL OVERHEATING!!!FRUSTRATED!!PLZ HELP.. PART 2..
Ok I am trying to help you but I'm not sure I fully understand everything. I also read your post in the transmission section. Lets start with that. The radiator blew, and you replaced it. The stock radiator had 2 tranny lines hooked up to it, in addition to the 2 radiator hoses for the engine, right? Its actually a radiator and transmission cooler in one. Does the new radiator have that same set up? Your transmission sends fluid to the radiator to get cooled and from there it travels back to the trans. Dont interrupt that flow, it needs its return line of fluid or it wont work.
Ok if thats done, and your car still will not move, then my next guess is the fluid level is low, perhaps caused when you swapped out the radiator/trans cooler. However in order to check the transmission fluid level the car needs to be warm, and idling and in park. The dipstick usually says this on it as well. However you have an overheating issue, so performing that step could be tricky.
When you replaced the radiator, did you add a 50/50 mix of coolant and water? 100% water will turn to steam in the engine and not cool properly. Also, pure coolant will not cool properly either because it does not have the cooling properties of water. Regardless of what climate you live in, always make sure that is approx a 50/50 mix. Some people will change this mixture slightly, but its not a requirement, unless you just about live in the friggen arctic circle.
When the car is cold, is the radiator full to the rim with coolant? It should be, so top it off and leave a little in the reservior also.
I'll stop there because going any further is difficult without knowing if you have the previously mentioned conditions.
Ok if thats done, and your car still will not move, then my next guess is the fluid level is low, perhaps caused when you swapped out the radiator/trans cooler. However in order to check the transmission fluid level the car needs to be warm, and idling and in park. The dipstick usually says this on it as well. However you have an overheating issue, so performing that step could be tricky.
When you replaced the radiator, did you add a 50/50 mix of coolant and water? 100% water will turn to steam in the engine and not cool properly. Also, pure coolant will not cool properly either because it does not have the cooling properties of water. Regardless of what climate you live in, always make sure that is approx a 50/50 mix. Some people will change this mixture slightly, but its not a requirement, unless you just about live in the friggen arctic circle.

When the car is cold, is the radiator full to the rim with coolant? It should be, so top it off and leave a little in the reservior also.
I'll stop there because going any further is difficult without knowing if you have the previously mentioned conditions.
Last edited by Dark Ember; May 28, 2011 at 11:35 AM.
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