Ronny

iTrader: (1)

When I used a ZIF chip holder it would do as WD-TA says when I drove over bumpy railroad tracks. Some times would recover and others would need to be reseated.

Kevin Alvarado

Hi my 84 Z28 camaro won't start I've replaced alternator, battery, starter, spark plug, spark plug wires, distributor, fuel pump, and fuel filter. My car has a carburetor managed to get a car fax saw it said it was a recall for seatbelts, computer, park and emergency brake. Its pulling gas but carb is still dry no squirter either would it have to do with the malfunctioned computer carfax said it malfunctioned. My vacuum canister has a hose that goes to tank and a hose that's been cut that goes to carb is that the issue? If where does it go exactly?

Kevin

topless87

Have you verified spark at the plugs? Do that to start with. If you have spark, pour gas into the bowl vent hole on the carb to fill the fuel bowl. It is a round hole in front of the air horn on a Q-jet. It IS NOT the hole that the air filter stud goes in. After that, hit the starter (it does crank over doesn't it?) and if you had spark it should fire up. You will still have to deal with why it has no gas to the carb...could be the fuel pump (check the fuse too) not working or a plugged fuel filter. By putting gas in the carb yourself you are eliminating the fuel pump so it should start and run but will quickly run out of fuel after a minute or so. Try these things and post back results. :-)

paul305

i have the same problem with my car did u ever figure it out
im stumped ecepte for getting another ecm or flashing my chip

Martinledezma50

hello all,
89 iroc z. Car was running fine but wouldn't start one day.. i looked every where and found i was getting a pulse to the injectors on the drivers side but not the passenger side. I looked up the codes and found all i was getting was a code 12... can anyone give me an idea of how to fix please

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Ohm the injectors and night want to start a new thread.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Check the INJ1 and INJ2 fuses. Under the dash above drivers left foot. Each fuse feeds four injectors.

RBob.

Martinledezma50

Both are good.. i checked them all..

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Those two fuses provide power to the injectors. The ECM provides a ground to pulse them. Each bank exits the ECM on its own pin, but there is only one injector driver in the '7165 ECM.

Check the wires/terminals at the ECM on pins D15 and D16.

It would also be worthwhile to check for power at the injector connectors.

RBob.

Martinledezma50

Would you happen to have a diagram on wires/terminals at the ECM on pins D15 and C16.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Note that as shown on the diagram it is pins D15 & D16 (not C16). I also corrected my post.

RBob.

Chevyriderk15

Just picked up a 92 Z28 if i tap the ECM the car dies, came across this after it was dieing randomly and after shutting the hood

Buccaneer

It would be wise to start your own NEW thread on this issue since this thread is pretty old and last posted two years ago.

topless87

I would take the ECU out and open it. Look for signs of corrosion (bad capacitors with a bulge or corrosion around where they mount on the circuit board) and pull the chip out if it has one (pretty sure it does, my 87 IROC does) and reseat it firmly. If you can tap on it and it makes a difference, I would bet the chip has worked loose or is just old and needs a good solid clean connection to the circuit board. Reinstall the ECU and test the car.
Please report back with your results so we can try to resolve the issue.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Memcals prom is soldered in, don’t see that vibrating loose with the latch tabs holding in the memcal.
best to start a new thread.

Chevyriderk15

Yes, I did all that and the next day I started it and tapped on the ecu and it died, I've since just ordered a new ECM since I have no practical simple way of testing the current one.

topless87

I didn't mean to make it sound "difficult". You just take out the ECU (or leave it in), take the cover for the chip off, pull the chip out and then reseat it. Does your ECU have a small 1"x 3" or so little cover on it with 2 screws? Take those screws out and you can see the "chip". Unhook its locks and pull the chip straight out (maybe shine up the legs with a little scuff pad) and reinsert it firmly and straight. If it still acts up, it is deeper in your ECU than you are comfortable working with and that is ok and safe. Good luck, crossing fingers. Let us know.

topless87

Well being soldered in sucks. Mine has a socket so my suggestions my be mute. Sorry my friend. It is just a loose connection in the ECU. As a EE from back in the 80s, soldering is something I do all the time on my "projects" but probably not for everyone.
I would pull the ECU, uncover its board and check for a bad connection on all components. That is too intimidating for alot of people. Would be ashame if it was just the main connections from the harness to the computer needing reseated.

Chevyriderk15

No, I meant I did all the disassembly remove the prom chip and inspected the diodes and resistors for obvious signs of damage andreinstalled and it still died after tapping on it. I just meant there's no other option of determining if the unit is actually bad other than the vehicle dying when the ECM is disturbed.

topless87

Ok, gotcha. You HAVE done everything I would. I have a company for my other platform that can test those cars ECUs and make any repairs needed and are very very good at what they do. I am sorry my help was "no help ". If Thirdgens had an ECU supporter that did repairs, I am sure it is not anything to bad, it's just age and use. Let us know when the new ECU goes in and how it acts then.

SlickVick

Since this thread has recent post maybe I'll have some luck. Think I have an ecm issue but not sure.
92 rs 3.1, been doing a lot of work on it due to some issues with it stalling out or running rough after it gets warmed up.

This started recently and out of the blue. Most sensors have been updated over the last year. Fuel pressure, regulator, vacuum leaks, new injectors, pretty much everything had been tested or updated of the last year. Had some hack job wiring from PO, that all had been fixed now, including the fan which was set to run anytime the switch is on. Upon doing this I realized the ecm is not activating the fan. Wired are good, I can ground the green wire at the relay and fan works fine. That green wire is the one that runs from the ecm, and is good all the way to the ecm.

Long story short while reading data I noticed it never gets into closed loop. Also o2 (new also) sensor doesn't change much on its reading, it moves a little but stays between .5 to almost .6, cts reads fine through ecm but still will not turn on fan even north of 220*.

If the ecm is not turning on fan and staying in open loop, plus I checked it and noticed it is a referb so it's been replaced at some point in the past, along with the other recent running issues, is their anything else to check or should I suspect ecm. Also no codes or anything of course.

Sorry for the long post but any ideas would be appreciated.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Does the fan come on koeo aldl a to b jumped ?

SlickVick

Don't think it comes on with scanner connected but I will check this tomorrow and get back to you on that. Would the scanner make it kick or paperclip only?

Also I have removed ecm, everything is connected, no bent pins, burn marks or anything out of the ordinary as far as the eye can see. And it's the correct ecm number with azty prom which is I believe the most up to date as far as a stock 30 year old car can be.

SlickVick

Ok so putting it into diagnostic mode with paperclip does turn the fan on, so I guess I wasn't letting it get hot enough. I would think over 220 would be hot enough.

Anybody know what the temp range for 92 3.1 should be and what else might keep it stuck in open loop?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

AZTY fan is commanded on at 107.8c or 226.06f how old is the o2 is it just staying at .450 mv ?

SlickVick

I know I hit over 220 and thought I even let it go to 230 with no fan activation but I will check again, that's according to live data not dash gauge.

O2 sensor is less than a year old, scanner shows it fluctuating between like .5 to .58.
Also I noticed vac line to smog pump can be sucked and blown through with no restrictions either way, but not sure if that is a problem. Found that when ruling out vacuum leaks for the rough idle and occasionally stalling. Also I noticed it sometimes will go closed loop for a few seconds but then back to open.

SlickVick

Ok fan does work as it should, so that's not an issue.

I do have a problem with it trying to stall after running a while.
Fuel pressure is good, even when it starts to sputter so fuel pump shouldn't be an issue. New pressure regulator and injectors, runs fine most of the time.
I have had to fix some hack job wiring, also have a new alternator but car will die if I disconnect the battery so maybe I have more wiring issues to find.

Since not the ecm not sure what to check next. It will go back into open loop sometimes after warming but it does stay in closed loop for longer than I first thought.
Also have a small vac leak around a grommet that feeds a line back to breather pipe, also car will choke when I spray around the smog pump connections. I didn't think the air system fed back into the intake, why would this cause idle changes.

With all this perhaps I should start a new thread lol

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Your responding to a old thread, wouldn’t expect a response.
If you have a code 51 replace ecm before the chip.