I知 having a bit of a problem locking down my ignition timing and getting it insync with the ecu. I致e done this in the past by setting my map to all 25 degs and bringing up the rpms to around 2700 and turning the distrib to 25 at the crank, then going back to my map and setting my ignition map to my typical curves. Is that right so far? Problem I知 having is, when the car warms up, its impossible to start again, like the timing is way high, my ign map cells are around 22 at low rpms so I知 not sure whats up,,I知 thinking maybe the distrib timing at low rpms is different from the dfi ecu and once I go over 2000rpms it matches my map cells. Any ideas what I知 missing? Maybe something with the way I知 getting the distrib and ecu insync is wrong, I知 also not disconnecting anything from the distrib when doing that.
Another question,,,is there a way to adjust properly my tps sensor while in calmap? By seeing where its reading is at the moment and moving it to where it should be? Its killing me, I致e been running this setup for over 12years in my car and now with this new engine combo (pretty radical ) its giving me problems.
Thanks

 

I have had the Gen 6 for many years. Your calmap timing does not affect your cranking timing. This is done at the distributor. When you get your engine to operating temp, check the timing with a timing light and make sure the corresponding cells in Calmap match. Then disconnect your ESC wire (this will disable the calmap control of the timing) and see what your base timing is. For Chevy smallblocks they say it should be around 6-10 degrees. I have mine at 6 and it starts first lick. If your cam is big (mine is large for a street motor) try 10 degrees.

I do have to say, I have varied my initial timing greatly and it has had very little affect on my starting. Usually it is your cranking pulse width and IAC starting position that makes the biggest difference. Because of the size of my cam, I had to drill a hole in the throttle blade to allow for extra air when cranking. (I work with Hi-Tech motorsports here in MN on my car, they are very knowledgable with DFI)

What changes did you make from your old setup to your new one? (make sure you put a charger on your battery and be sure it has a full charge, thats the problem I had with my starting)

 

Ok, that’s one of my problems, I never disconnected that esc wire. So what your saying is that I should warm the car up, bring up my rpms to 3000 and say my map cells call for 25 deg’s, check that at the crank and adjust it if its not to 25. Then disconnect that wire and set my timing to somewhere in the 6-10 deg range, then reconnect that wire and I should be all good? Also do I do that while its running, disconnect and reconnect that esc wire?

The problem with cranking the car when its warm, it tends to kickback, like timing is way high and strains the starter really bad.

I think in the past I was getting lucky with matching up the ecu to the distrib, but with this setup now, its alittle more radical, my setup before was a 10:1 compression motor with 218/230 @ 0.050 on a 114ls, now I’m 12.8:1 compression, solid roller 256/264, .630 on a 114ls
Thanks

 

First check your current timing with the esc wire plugged in and make sure it matches what it says in Calmap. If it doesnt adjust it so that it does. After you do that it really should be in sync. But as a double check, after the timing and the Calmap match (doesnt matter what rpm you do it at, just bring it up enough so it is stable enough to read with the light) unplug your esc wire and check the timing. (The calmap procedure is to get your base timing set at 6 at the distributor and then set your entire ignition map to read 6. Then you adjust your timing map accordingly.)
I have never had to do that procedure. I just get the the timing with the esc wire plugged in to match calmap value and then Im good to go. When I unplug my esc wire it just happens to read 6 degrees. Now your cam is actually slightly larger than mine and you have a ton of compression, your car may not want to idle with the esc wire unplugged. You may have to work the throttle while trying to check the base timing. Even if you dont get an exact base reading, you will at least know if your in the ballpark.

How much have you changed your cranking fuel values and your IAC starting position? With that big change in cam and compression, your starting Air/fuel requirement will have changed quite abit.