mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yes, i'm running an lsx, and i plan to add boost as well. i'm looking heavily at the dominator as i may go to a 4l80e in the future.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If you got LSx, the factory ECM's work very well for boost. Just need a good tuner. Friend of mine tunes them...low 700's whp stock 5.3 silverado, had an ls2 with heads/cam twins making 816whp on a mustang dyno, and a 370" Gt4202 car that made over 800 on the dyno jet where my bolt on ls1 car put down 320whp so its somewhat conservative.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i don't want a factory pcm. i've already been in that direction, and can't seem to find a tuner that's not a total *****. i want to tune it myself...and i'd like something that is infinitely expandable like the holley so i can keep going as the car evolves. could possibly be north of 4 digits pretty quick...need to get a good job with my degree when i graduate so i can afford all of this.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Ok here is what you do you have to do. Fans, I am using the factory relays. I have them powered off a junction block because my battery is in the trunk. They are fused, but , I have them tied together is series using the gound on these two solinoids. Use the fan ground output in the holley i/o harness to trigger these using the ground.

Tcc lockup you can do this a couple of ways. But most important is you cannot tie any wires directly to the tcc solinoid from the holley. When the soliniod disengages there is always a small amount of voltage feedback that will cook the ecu if you do it this way. You need a regular relay. Power it from the brake switch and use the holley to trigger it with 12 volts. Now some relays can output on two blades the one I got from advanced does as its for offroad lights. You power the tcc using one of these outputs, the other you can say trigger a light to show you when the tcc is engauged. So here is a basic wiring scheme:
Power the relay #30 with purple foot brake wire. Run a 12v trigger from holley to #86. #85 is ground on trigger side. Then feed tcc with #87. And #87a can trigger a led or somthing to that degree. Settings we can get into later because I can show you another way of parameters to get the tcc to lockup. Heres how the circuit will work: anytime brake pedal is pressed power is cut to relay, when ecu paramters are met ecu will signal to engage relay to lockup tcc. Even when locked tcc will disengage when pedal is pressed. Lmk when your ready for parameters because I there are other paramters that you can use then whats in there for settings.

Fuel pump, this ones easy if your setup is like mine. I have a gss340m walbro. There is a line from ecu that powers your pump. Its relayed and fused in the wiring harness. But Im not 100% sure because i dont have the install instructions in front of me. But the pump cannot pull more than 10-12 amps if you are under this you just hook up the wire from the holley to the feed wire between the back seats. It was tan with a stripe on my car. Other 2 are ground and gauge sender wires. If you have a bigger pump that pulls alot of amps, you have to do the relay like the tcc. You would feed the relay 12 volts from battery and fuse it to the #30. Trigger it with holley wire to #86. #85 to ground and then feed pump with #87. These relaya are cheap like 5 bucks. Use insulated female ends and shrink wrap the crimped ends. Lmk if you need any more info.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about that. Your motor looks more setback in the bay more than usual . Maybe its just the pic. Nice setup though. You ever see Preston Smiths 305 turbo car. Seen it up here once unvelievable unit for the ci. Boost is up there though, 25+. He frequents Ned up korth here. Take care

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

For an electric trans its a good deal all in one unit. Tci' s add on controller is about $700 by itself. So its a good choice insteas of running two units. Take care.

thatsupnow

Thank you very much for the info!!! Ill def be asking more in the future you seem to be the authority on this system right now. take care and have fun!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Do you know how much amps a single walbro pump takes? I assume you just used the holley pump wire direct to feed?

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

A single feed holley , i have a gss340m, pulls about 7-8 amps. Im pretty sure right around there. Anyway I have not blown the fuse to date which is 10 amps when I had it direct fed. Now the new areomotive units are a different story. They pull between 12-14 amps. But in my opinion the walbro is good for most combos here. Unless you running big cubes and or high boost or more than 150 nitrous hit. Walbro states this pump is good to 550-600hp. Alot of guys talk about the " hotwire" kits. But you can put one together for pennies on the dollar compared to what they charge. I used the holley feed to feed a relay to switch the pump on. But the actual feed voltage is fused and comes right off my battery, which in turn is feed by the altenator. You can do it either way. I just like being able to change the fuse near the battery vs on the ecu if it blows because mine is under pass side dash kick panel. And you get the full voltage as well. Hope this helps a bit take care.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats what i figured. I have twin walbros for now and thought i would be over the limit. Debating in goin hp efi if my stock ecu is toast. Had a electrical issue this past week. Not sure what it is. Car ran fine all week and a half, then one day wouldnt start right then when it did run it randomly dies while driving. May be a connection issue or ground or something simple but the more i look at this hp software and stuff, i wouldnt mind upgrading. Now i hope my stock stuff is ok an its something simple but if not i am attracted to the hp's features and pricetag. Thanks

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Ya know. If you lived closer I would give you the line I had made for my car. It is a 8an ss line flared for an from the tank to where the factory one sits on fram rail. Im still using the return. Its even bent to put like a fuel labs filter where the stock one goes. What kind of power are you putting down? I had the same crap happen with my 97 tahoe before I ripped the motor and tranny out for the 383 swap. Would just die when I was driving, but would start right back up. Weird. Most likley its some kind of ground issue with ecm or battery system., or actually the grounds off the motor. I like to check continuity when I replace the grounds like when I did the motor swap. Thats where I would start. If your duel system is fine I would just keep it and run the seperate relay. You could actually do that now if you dont already have the hotwire kit which I assume you do with that setup. The stock ecm is very flexable. But a steep learning curve and no data logging, which Im sure youd like. Ans a wide band as well. Everytime I talk to an accel shop they always say the holley and fast stuff is crap. And relies to much on sensors imput for tuning. Really idk how else you would get a reliable tune without a wideband. Maybe they are saying the sytem relies to much on that sensor? Whatever the case I feel you cant really go wrong with any of the three units and I like to get whats new. And holley always comes through in terms of customer service. I just had my bosch wideband take a dump and they sent another the ntk unit in replacement for free. Seems the bosch units are much more sensitive than the ntks in terms of blowing them out. Whats holding you back in terms of making the jump to an aftermarket ecu? Let me know of you need any direction in terms of this holley sytem. Its a big jump esecially having to remove the factory ecu and wiring, but nothing big if you have the diagrams for your car and I can steer you in that way as I have alot of the links saved and my helm manual as well. I assume you are running bigger fuel lines? Dont know uour current hp level though to give my opinion. Stock is good to about 550 hp. Just because of the fp run. Most carb guys run 8an or bigger. But carb is a low pressure system. A 6an line running 44psi pushes way more fuel than a 6an line at 7psi. Plus dont know if your running the factory rail. There is a restrictor in the feed line which I removed. Looks almost like a collander which you would drain spaggetti with if you can picture what Im refering to. Plus factory is bank to bank. Which will empty the rails fast with big injectors and may lead to unstable psi at higher rpms and hp levels. Most aftermarket ecus run sequential which I do with the fast duel sync. I used fittings from street &performance which screw into the rear of the rail( cold start year rails only) for the feed and a return fitting that replaces the small kinked return. I plumbed teflon lined earls for both feed and return at 6 an sizing. Like the teflon because in long runs it has less friction resitance than rubber,and a hard line or teflon line does not flex. Also all rubber braided line eventually eats itself out with the new ethanal gas which the rubber is not compatable with if you did not know. If you let gas sit in your car year after year and seem to get that gassy smell in your garage, this is why, its seeping through the rubber braided line and actually will swell it over time and then to ultimate failure, just an fyi.Lmk if you need any more info. Btw sorry if my spelling sucks a bit. I reply mostly on here with my galaxy 2 phone and my hands are too big to type sometimes, lol . Take care

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My fuel system should be good to 1000 whp. Its all teflon lined so no worry about ethanol eating the lines. I'm looking for 900-1000 with the motor setup even tho it should be good for 1100+. Enough turbo for 1200whp i think. Dual pumps, -8 an line, -6 return with 115 lb injectors.

I've been doing the stock ECM with turbo gmc truck code for 2 years, and its been working pretty good. Few quirks here and there but I learned it well enough to enough to be somewhat confident in it. Was working well already this week and last week but now having random issues and not sure if its ecm or grounds. Quick check on grounds tonight they look ok but i have a few more to check.

Aftermarket stuff I just couldnt justify. 2 grand for some systems or more and for what? I dont need all the gadgets. I dont run individual cylinder tunes or EGT's or boost in gear, etc. I needed fuel and timing, and hopefully with better resolution than what I have now. Stock is good enough but leaves alittle bit to be desired. Self tuning will be a great help to get the base map developed. Get me idle thru 100 kpa on half throttle 1500-4000 rpm and that will give me the slope for the entire graph for the most part..then dial in from there. HOlley for 1500 bucks is looking like a best bang for buck type deal. Megasquirt also but not familar with it and definately couldnt build my own setup.
So thats where I'm at. Looking for the most easy system to swap my setup over if i need to, and since its just like a TPI setup in wiring, the holley kit should swap well.

chevyredneck8

iTrader: (4)

Hey traviZ what size injectors are you running my setup is similar to yours and im also running NA to get a basic tune and set the timing & AFR before the SC install. I have 48lb injectors timing is set and im having an issue idling and lower rpm it struggles. my injector pw is going between 15-30at lower rpm and dumping a lot of gas until it climbs the rpms, then it sounds like it ready to eat mustangs :-) up Are the injectors too big for an NA motor to idle(if that's possible) or something the Pw is the only thing I see really weird.

Would you care to share about what fuel Psi and timing ur motor idles at well? I know I'm missing an adjustment and im leaning toward the wrong size injectors or the fuel pressure.

Why did you change to a 3 bar map sensor?

Thanks

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

What brand injector are you using? Tables in the hp are set for diff injectors. I was using the holleys which were the standard injector in the software. You should be able to see the lb/ hr the computer is pulling from the fuel tables as well. Fp should be around 42 psi. Your not using those new bosch design units are you?. 3bar is for boost. You could install a 2 bar which is good up to about 15psi boost..

chevyredneck8

iTrader: (4)

last start up I was @ 40 psi. The injectors are 48lb per hour Holley. I am running a 1 bar and Natural aspired just to get a base tune then after exhaust is done it'll be a p600b 6-8 psi. Should I go ahead and get a two bar?
the injector pw will hang 15-30 trying to idle and cut out as soon as the rpm gets up it'll drop to single digits and run great shouldn't the pw go up with the rpms?
my fuel lb per hour table is scaled low to high in the right direction

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

How is it idling? I know when I first fired mine the idle would hang. You want the iac arpund 10. You can run a two bar it doesnt matter because it wont see boost anyway. It will be dumping alot of fuel until it gets into closed loop. I was surprised when I first got the system the amount of fuel it used at warmup. What dis are you using? And are you using one of the holley files? Be very careful about reving up the motor when cold as the tune is not spot on. If you have a backfire the bosch unit will be fried. If you are runnin boost the ntk u it is a better option. Thats what im using ...ask me why....

chevyredneck8

iTrader: (4)

it idle choppy like its dumping too much fuel and cutting off . By more rpm I mean like 3k it sounds like its running great then when I let it idle its sound fine for a few secs goes choppy and cut off
I'm running a msd gm small cap how much advance did ur motor like to idle. I believe Im running a ntk brand 02 if I thinking right what was ur experience?
is the two bar something I would have to ordered or is there a gm replacement sensor I could use from like AutoZone?

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

If its stalling out you may not have enough air to idle it. Watch the iac correction it shouldnt be more than 10. Big cams like to idle in the 900-1000 range. Adjust idle air screw, always do tps reset when you touch this. To get the idle the cam card calls for. Then adjust the timing. Bigger cams can be 10-12 initial. Reread the iac section and setting the throttle plates. Also make sure you have no vacume leaks. Ill hvae to check my software when I get homeI havent touched it in a while.

chevyredneck8

iTrader: (4)

I think ur right on the air I talked to holley tech and the suggested raise the rpm 900-1000 pull the air cleaner. Take it out of close loop under system parameters. Then start the motor then plug the iac with ur thumb it should drop about 50rpms. Mine cut off and I had to adjust the throttle plate adjustment screw to get it running. I have a used 58 mm BBK and I noticed a 1/4 hole in the throttle plate that I don't think is factory. But I believe my issue is between the iac and throttle adjustment.

I was starting to get it dialed in and idling! when I discovered an antifreeze issue hitting my headers. It is leaking out my head bolts New ARP studs and ARP thread sealant . Its multiple bolts I'm debating pulling one stud at a time and torqueing with a different sealant but I've never done this on aluminum heads and I'm nervous but Ill post this on another board and repost when I figure out the efi Thanks for the help so far!

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Its not to hard to pull the head. You can try to pull the offending one and seal and retorque. Throttle bodys should not have a hole in the blades. Its threw the iac port and angle of throttle blades idle is set and held. Once you get the idle speed everything will fall into place. 700 rpm sounds good with a lumpy cam, but it wont idle. Most like I say are 850-1000.

On the coolant issue arp thread sealent is one of the best, comparable to gm sealant. Maybe a gasket issue? Thread seal the side going into the head, you cant overuse it. They go in hand tight. On the torque side some arp lube will get you the right torque readings. Remember to do the tightening in sequence per repair manual. What gasket you have and which head?

chevyredneck8

iTrader: (4)

Ive got AFR heads, new arp stud kit, a high dollar feel pro gasket that the machine shop ordered rated for boost/high compression. the block was dipped and cleaned. The only thing I can think of is I assembled my engine over a year ago, but ill hopefully fix the motor soon

I'm thinking about taking the car to get tuned and debating bring another o2 incase mine is damaged why did ur bosch fry and why is the ntk better?

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Bosch is delicate. I had a small backfire is the pipe and the bosch took a dump. Even Holley told me the bosch are not rugged at all. They recommend the ntk for anything blown or nitrous plus it s a lot more resilient.