Tuning idle Question?
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1987 Iroc-z
Engine: 355/Edelbrkhds/lpe219cam/MiniRam/
Transmission: 700R4/3.27 9bolt
Tuning idle Question?
Guys,
I am a beginner with some learned knowledge from this board. I have a burner and an ALDL Cable and using TunerProRT.
I have an '87 IROC 350 with Superram, Cam, Edelbrock heads, headers, 24lb. injectors and 2400stall converter. I am using the '89 6E bin.
My question is:
How do I read the BLM's on TunerPro? What tables should I adjust to tune idle. I want to make sure I am not lean/Rich but not sure what I should be looking at. Can someone help me?
thanks,
Jason
I am a beginner with some learned knowledge from this board. I have a burner and an ALDL Cable and using TunerProRT.
I have an '87 IROC 350 with Superram, Cam, Edelbrock heads, headers, 24lb. injectors and 2400stall converter. I am using the '89 6E bin.
My question is:
How do I read the BLM's on TunerPro? What tables should I adjust to tune idle. I want to make sure I am not lean/Rich but not sure what I should be looking at. Can someone help me?
thanks,
Jason
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I can't help you with Tuner RT, but to tune BLM's you want to use the injector constants to get as many BLMs as close as possible(I know you didn't ask but oh well). From there you will cross reference the BLM's to the Gr/Sec it is flowing in that BLM cell. For the most part you shouldn't need to make any changes to any of the MAF tables except the first for your idle. In MAF table #1 you'll probably have to add a point or two to each cell, depending on the size of your cam. Don't get hog wild here, as these tables are used for the spark maps and many other things.
If your running without cats, and you can smell a rich idle, but your BLM's are reporting lean, I've had some success lowering the first three values in the closed loop rich/lean threshold vs. airflow. Right now I'm over 100 mV lower than the factory settings, and I've got rid of most of the smell. I could probably go lower, but I need to get a wideband before I fell safe.
What are the specs on your cam?
If your running without cats, and you can smell a rich idle, but your BLM's are reporting lean, I've had some success lowering the first three values in the closed loop rich/lean threshold vs. airflow. Right now I'm over 100 mV lower than the factory settings, and I've got rid of most of the smell. I could probably go lower, but I need to get a wideband before I fell safe.
What are the specs on your cam?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1987 Iroc-z
Engine: 355/Edelbrkhds/lpe219cam/MiniRam/
Transmission: 700R4/3.27 9bolt
219/219 .525/.525 112deg
I understood the first part of what you said but the other stuff went a little over my head.
I have my injector constant set at 24... should I adjust it a little?
I understood the first part of what you said but the other stuff went a little over my head.
I have my injector constant set at 24... should I adjust it a little?
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 328
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From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Car: Iroc-Z
Engine: 355 AFR'd HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Just because you have 24# injectors doesn't mean you set your chip to 24#'s. I have 24# injectors and I had mine set at 26.78 # or somthing like that so it would idle at or near 128 BLM plus or minus 2 either side. A real basic and quick calculation shows I may be putting about 10-11% less fuel in at idle or using only 89-90% as much as you are. THat little bit is enough to make a world of difference.
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Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1987 Iroc-z
Engine: 355/Edelbrkhds/lpe219cam/MiniRam/
Transmission: 700R4/3.27 9bolt
Cool... Thanks for the input, I'm leaving work now for home. I will try it tonight. If I get my BLMs in range at idle, do you think the car is safe to drive? I have not been driving it since I am worried about a bad Rich/Lean condition. I guess if I get this thing to idle decent I will start asking about the real nuts and bolts with this tuning stuff.
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by Roostmeyer
I can't help you with Tuner RT, but to tune BLM's you want to use the injector constants to get as many BLMs as close as possible
I can't help you with Tuner RT, but to tune BLM's you want to use the injector constants to get as many BLMs as close as possible
While using the proper techniques might take a little extra effort, it will assure that the code runs properly.
There's is a time and a place for tinkering with some numbers, but for the new guys, developing the proper techniques, and understandings is much more important, IMO. Once you have a full understanding the code, and/or tuning, you can get into intelligent experimenting.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 313
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1987 Iroc-z
Engine: 355/Edelbrkhds/lpe219cam/MiniRam/
Transmission: 700R4/3.27 9bolt
Grumpy,
I find 16 references to LV8 Constants/Tables. As a new guy I think I will play with the injector constant before I get in deeper. Can you be more precise as to which LV8 stuff you are speaking of?
I find 16 references to LV8 Constants/Tables. As a new guy I think I will play with the injector constant before I get in deeper. Can you be more precise as to which LV8 stuff you are speaking of?
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