hey guys... im really inexperienced when it comes to tuning, so bare with me =\

i just had my motor rebuilt with a comp cam 502 cam, ported heads, headers, and a bunch of cool stuff. right now, i want to get the maximum power out of my car, and im positive i need to tune the AFR. i have an AFPR, a laptop, and the Mastach connector for my car. i had a friend custom burn me a chip, which seems to make my car run a lot better, but im sure if i adjust the FPR to get it just right, i can bring out that extra bit of power that's lying dormant right now.

here's my question... how do i go about doing that? is there a program out there that can read a singal from my o2 sensor (3 wire, heated) which would tell me if there's too much o2 or too little, which would allow me to increase the fp so i can get the o2 readings just right? i hope im making sense... if anyone can chime in here real quick to let me know how i can tune my AFR without having to go out and buy an LM-1 or the like, i would really appriciate it. thanks in advance

 

You already have a "mastach" cable right?(you said connector, I just wanted to be sure you can connect.
There are several software programs that will read the datastream from the ECM.
You need to find out what yours is and find something out there that supports that type.
Tuner Pro, TTS Datamaster, EFILive, and others exist.
I would think you have a 1227730 ecm in your car. All these programs can read that.
When you talk about tuning the AFR there is more to it than that simple parameter.
There are tables that define the amount of fuel needed at different rpm and loads.
These are specific to each motor/rear end/trans/and car weight and must be adjusted to to obtain the proper AFR at each point in the operation.
Read through the stickies to get an "opening" feel for what is accomplished and how to do it.
There is alot to read, but it needs to be understood to grasp the tuning of injection systems.
Jp

 

thanks for the help. i do have the mastach cable, and datamaster. im trying to learn how to use datamaster to figure out if im running too rich or too lean on WOT.... i dont know if you can do that or not, but if i can, i'd like to figure out how. if not, i'll just wait till i take my car to get dyno tuned after i put in the HSR since it would be pointless to do it now and then have to do it again later. thanks again

 

Get familiar with it now and it will make it easier the next time.
Look at the L-and S- term counts.
They should be at 128.
Higher numbers indicate fuel is being added to the base "VE" table value.
Lower numbers means fuel is being subtracted to obtain 14.7 AFR.
JP

 

I think you would be using the $8D version.
It should work easily. Pin M is the output on your ALDL.
Sorry, I misread that. You are looking for WOT tuning.
Not going to be easy without WB setup.
Datamaster will log but will drop off the scale at WOT when the AFR goes lower than the stock O2 can read.

 

well, im planning on getting my car dyno tuned when i get the HSR put on, but for now, i want to get the best fuel/air mixture without having to spend money to get it tuned now when i'll have to get it tuned later. would i be able to do anything with a heated GM o2 sensor and datamaster? or should i just chill for now and wait for my HSR to go on so i can get it tuned? thanks for ALL your help guys

 

For all around driving you will get results with the three wire and datamaster. Once you have your bin file and do some "street" driving (don't go too much throttle) and use a program called "VEMASTER" (do a search for it, you'll find it).
Enter the datalog file you made and the bin file (make a copy of your bin file first, so you don't loose where you came from)
The program will adjust the VE tables to get you closer to a good "drivable" tune. It will take 5-6 (or 20, the max unregistered) times to get you running good.
Review the changes that the program has made in the txt file it creates. That will help you see what is happening.
It won't help with WOT, but the baseline bin file settings should keep you close enough to run decent.
1.) Make sure your timing is set to 6 BTDC (or whatever your bin file has entered)
2.) check your fuel pressure and recalculate the "injector constant" to be sure the ECM calculations will be correct for the injectors you have.
This is the point I am at right now with mine. I'm looking to get a WB in the near future, but right now I have a good running car.
There is more power in there, but must wait for the right tool to get it out without hurting it.
JP

Ps, there is also a good starting point bin file if you are using the 730, $8D program.
Do a search in here for " S_AUJP" and read the posts.
Check all the settings before you use it to be sure it is OK for your setup.