Hi,
Was wondering if anyone could give me some good tips in these four areas in TunerCat software.

1.Spark Advance VS RPM VS Load. what i did was change my timing in the low RPM ( 400- 1200 RPM) to 3 degress advance. and High RPM ( 4000- 4800) retard 3 degress across all load varyances. It seem to run OK, I guess.

2.Spark Advance in WOT VS RPM. I rather not touch this one untill i get more tips.

3.BPW fuel VS Load. Ok here I incremented in my Low RPMs and Deincrement in my Highs. It ran but didn't feel any changes but bad Gas Miles and a weaker pull it seemed

4. MAX AIR Flow VS RPM. I incremented all ables. This seemed to give me a little more HP.

If someone could please give me tips it would be a great help. I think i've got the right idea but i might not be changing my tables in the correcttly way for example i'm change then horozontly rather then vertical (spelling sucks sorry) maybe i need to verticaly??? not sure. I also tried going to websites looking for stock and modded up 32_B file but had not luck.

Thanks

 

No offense, but, well, sounds like you want to make changes, but don't have any goals in mind. Calibrating an engine is meant to optimize things, which requires tools. If I were you, I'd read a little more on here and in other places, and get a better idea of what tuning means.

With fuel, in closed loop, the goal is to get the BPW vs LV8 to achieve 14.7:1 AND have block learn values near 128. A standard O2 sensor (which is in your engine already) will do fine for regular driving.

With Wide open throttle or Power Enrichment, the goal is to add some fuel for more power, but only to a certain point. Use a Wideband meter ($350 from Innovate Motorsports). Target an air fuel ratio in the neighborhood of 12:1 down low, and 12.5-13:1 up high.

PE, or WOT spark is just for power. Use a dyno, or a g-tech, and be wary of knock. Don't touch it until later (or even reduce it until you get the fuel where you want it).

BPW vs Load - shouldn't really need much if any difference from low RPM to high, since it's Mass Air Flow, and doesn't really care what RPM it's at. And from low load to high, keep the same slope as stock, and if you have to change everything, change by %, not by adding or subtracting a constant from everything.

Max Airflow vs RPM is not going to give you more hp, unless your engine is heavily modified. Some believe it to be a limp home feature, others have found that it "clamps" acceleration enrichment to keep it from spiking in too much fuel when the throttle is initially snapped open. Raising it across the board shouldn't hurt anything.

Spark advance is just for achieving MBT, or MINIMUM Timing for Best Torque. A dyno is the best way. Every other way is a little bit of a crap shoot, and takes an extreme amount of patience. If I were you, I'd stick to stock and watch for knock. If you aren't racing, then you don't need more than stock until you learn a little more about it. If you are racing, tune in small increments, and datalog everything. With a knock sensor, you'll be pretty safe, as long as you don't go rediculous. An engine will not damage itself very easily with a little knock here and there. Pre-ignition on the other hand will. Read up on it (Grumpy posted a link recently that'll help a LOT). Knock (or detonation - end gas self igniting after spark has started normal combustion) can lead to pre-ignition (hot spot induced auto ignition way before spark is even sparked).

Moates.net has some files for download, and the diy-efi.org has an archive.

A lot of people have switched from 32B to $6E in the past, so read up on that and decide for yourself.

Enjoy.

 

I just wanted to make one point. If the BPW table is to be used by the ECM, the switch table must be un "x"ed for that option. It seems counter intuitive to me. So, if there is an "x" in the switch table for BPW, the ECM will calculate to PW itself from known and measured data.