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Selecting a baseline bin for a 1987 L98

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Old 10-03-2005, 01:49 PM
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Selecting a baseline bin for a 1987 L98

I'm just getting into this (have my equipment in the mail) and am looking to find a baseline to start with for my 87 L98. Through my reading - I've found that:
** the 88 and 89 L98 F-bodies had a slightly bigger cam than the 87
**along with a serpentine setup instead of V-belt.

Well, I've already swapped to a serpentine setup from an 88 vehicle - so that shouldn't make a difference. This leaves the cam difference. I'd like to go with the newer $6E code, but am deciding between the APYU (stock 350 '89 Firebird w/auto) and the popular ARAP. I know alot have had good dealings with the ARAP bin, but with my engine's smaller cam than even a stock 89 f-body L98 - will it make the DIY-PROM learning curve more steap than it needs to be?

To put it bluntly - which bin is the right choice to start with?

Thanks!
Old 10-03-2005, 07:17 PM
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Try both . See which one runs the best by feel, then spark plugs, then scanned datalogs. I'm betting for a nearly stock L98, the APYU will be a good starting point. I like it better for the mild TPI motors. The ARAP has some funky things going on that make it hit or miss. Use the ARAP is a vette bin so you need to modify it to work with your car. You need to change the fan relay polarity and a couple other things. Doing a compare in TunerPro will show you what needs to be changed in a completely stock ARAP bin to work in an f-body. Keep in mind the ARAP has more SA because it was for the aluminum headed vette's. Stock iron with a mild cam doesn't take well to a lot of timing at lower RPM... that being said, I'd go with the APYU. One thing you might want to do is copy over the ARAP AE tables. Other than that, have fun and take notes. Might read up on other threads about going to $6E. Remember to unplug the 9th injector or you'll be fighting a loosing battle.
Old 10-03-2005, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the reply JPrevost. That seems to be the conclusion I came to as well. I will be trying both and will document my findings -> as I believe my car to be the typical 87/88 with minor mods (exhaust and air intake stuff).

About the 9th injector - Since the new code won't be using the 9th injector at all - does it matter that it is connected or not? I'll do some more searching and post up here if I find a definitive answer. I've given up on people saying "Search"...if it's out there I'll update my post with the correct info, as somebody who does their research in the future will find this and be glad.

<--Going to search for answer. But feel free to post your suggestions/guidance as this will help myself and all the lurkers in my situation.
Old 10-03-2005, 07:34 PM
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Update:

The cold start uses a switch that supplies the 9th injector power while in the crank position under a certain coolant temp. The system doesn't tie into the ECM system at all. Unplug the injector and/or the switch and cover/protect the exposed plugs. You may or may not have to adjust the cranking PW's and multipliers vs. reference pulses to get it to start the way you want it to.
So judging by this, the 89 bin (ARAP or otherwise w/o 9th injector) will be compensating for the lack of the 9th injector by adding fuel on startup via the computer, while the non-ecm-controlled 9th injector will STILL be adding fuel. Solution is to to follow the quote's advice.

Gotta love learning
Old 10-03-2005, 07:44 PM
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Yeah, that 9th injector has a mind of it's own. Best to listen to those with large post counts...
Old 10-03-2005, 09:40 PM
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Car: 1987 GTA
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Transmission: 4L60e
Originally posted by JPrevost
Yeah, that 9th injector has a mind of it's own. Best to listen to those with large post counts...
I'd change that to those that have been here a long time. Some people have 50,000 posts and joined this year

Thanks J
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