Re-pinning how to
03-31-2006, 08:48 PM
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Re-pinning how to
If anyone finds the other thread on re-pinning, please post a link here and I'll merge these two threads. Thanks.
I have some pictures that will help show how to remove the pins from the ECM harness connectors. Basically there is a small tab that needs to be depressed to release the pin from the connector body. Once that is done the pin slides right out. The trick is knowing how to find and depress the tab.
Here is a picture of a pin. On the right is the barrel that slides over the ECM pin for electrical contact. On the left is the tab that locks the pin into the connector. It is the center piece with the curve in it. You can even see some scratches from me removing it.
(hey, with the new board I can put multiple pics in one post).
The next picture shows some tools that can be used. One made from a 1/16" diameter wire and the other the low cost paper clip. The wire tool was flattened and filed on the end to shape it.
The third picture shows the tool being inserted into the connector to depress the tab. Note that the center two rows of holes are for the barrel, with the outer two rows of holes for the tab release.
The tab can be felt when it gets depressed. Hold the tab down and gently pull on the wire. It will come out easily. If not, then relax the tension on the wire and fish for the tab again.
Almost forgot. There is a plastic comb that is inserted into the back of the connector. This needs to be removed first. It is held in place with two plastic tabs. Just push the tabs out with a small screwdriver and the comb pulls off.
RBob.
I have some pictures that will help show how to remove the pins from the ECM harness connectors. Basically there is a small tab that needs to be depressed to release the pin from the connector body. Once that is done the pin slides right out. The trick is knowing how to find and depress the tab.
Here is a picture of a pin. On the right is the barrel that slides over the ECM pin for electrical contact. On the left is the tab that locks the pin into the connector. It is the center piece with the curve in it. You can even see some scratches from me removing it.
(hey, with the new board I can put multiple pics in one post).
The next picture shows some tools that can be used. One made from a 1/16" diameter wire and the other the low cost paper clip. The wire tool was flattened and filed on the end to shape it.
The third picture shows the tool being inserted into the connector to depress the tab. Note that the center two rows of holes are for the barrel, with the outer two rows of holes for the tab release.
The tab can be felt when it gets depressed. Hold the tab down and gently pull on the wire. It will come out easily. If not, then relax the tension on the wire and fish for the tab again.
Almost forgot. There is a plastic comb that is inserted into the back of the connector. This needs to be removed first. It is held in place with two plastic tabs. Just push the tabs out with a small screwdriver and the comb pulls off.
RBob.
03-31-2006, 10:41 PM
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Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
I have had great luck in adapting a cotter pin (the same type that you use on ball joint castle nuts, spindle nuts, etc) to use for removing pins from our ECM connecters. Simply open up the cotter pin to almost an "L" shape, and get started! The medium-small cotter pins are just wide enough to fit nicely inside the connecter, and they're rigid enough to not bend when you apply leverage to depress the locking tab on the wire pin.
Once you've mastered the pin removal and replacement, you can take advantage of such threads as:
Repinning TBI to Speed Density TPI
Once you've mastered the pin removal and replacement, you can take advantage of such threads as:
Repinning TBI to Speed Density TPI
This thread contains all of the needed info to successfully repin your existing TBI injection harness (for the 1228746 ECM) to a Speed Density Multi Port Injection setup (for the 1227730 ECM). Many people so far have successfully completed this conversion, and have found it to be an easier and less expensive way to upgrade as opposed to finding a complete and intact MPFI harness.
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