Hopefully this isn't too far off topic. If it is, could the moderator give it like a day? This msg board is full of some more-than-usual knowledgable folks, and I'd like to download some opinions.

I went to look at a car-for-sale today. Some details follow:
Asking $1200, 1985 Camaro, fiberglass hood/doors, no windshield/back glass/front bottom of clip/engine/radiator/etc.

Has 12-bolt rear /w/ 4.88's(?), hope it's good(!), has skinny rims up front /w/ one good tire, one good fat rim in back /w/ fat slick (missing 2 tires & one rim), ladder bars, 10-point cage, racing seat, aluminum paneling on dash & doors, lexan door windows, line lock on brakes (front disc/rear drum), small block full-length headers, driveshaft, coil-over shocks in back along /w/ leaves, fuel cell (no tank). Whole thing is primered mix with some minor rust around rear window area & some more in floor pans etc. Not real pretty, but what do you want?

THEN there's the other stuff (the guy says $2500 takes it all, car and everything). 350 tranny, supposedly brand new rebuild /w/ short tailshaft, 4000 stall converter, 350 stroked to 383, looks like brand new flat-top aluminum(?) pistons & H-beam rods (steel I think), supposedly file-fit rings. Short block is assembled, but looks like it might have seen a little bit of water and has what appears to be some surface rust, some evidence of such in the cylinder bores also. Also comes with new electric fuel pump, iron heads that looked worked/matched /w/ big valves (need a casting number: 422 or I-34, make sense?), heavy triple springs, full roller rockers/guideplates/etc, solid lifter cam, new roller timing set, some kinda full ignition setup (Holley I think), new starter, 400 flywheel plate, hamburger oil pan, hi-rise Brodix manifold, Carter 800 carb, new oil pump, etc etc.

Anyways, the unknowns are rampant. I could probably get it all for under $2000 car and parts. Any thoughts? How risky is the rust on the block? Might have gotten into the bearings, I donno. Please, I beg for opinions on if I should go for it. Any thoughts? Again, I know it might be a bit off-topic, but on the other hand the short block might just be a nice swap into my 87 Trans-Am if all else looks weird.

Many thanks,
-Craig

 

No to be a **** ... but why are you posting this in THIS forum ?

 

Because my experience suggests that folks in this sub-board are generally active, sharp, and know what is good and what it's worth. I fully expect this msg to get killed, just asking for a day of mercy. I posted it in the 'Motor Swap' section, it's stagnant over there.

 

If it's a real 12 bolt rear, it didn't come with that firebird. That alone costs ~$2K new. Even if it needs new gears you can do that for $300.
I have done a couple of engines that have been sitting for a while with rust in the bores. As long as it is only surface rust, a quick hone takes care of that - unfortunately, you need to drop the crank and pull the pistons if you want to do it right.
If it is brand new, it probably still has assembly lube in all the mains, so they should be rust free.
All in all, sounds like a great deal if you have room to store it all.

I wish I found a deal like that - I just got back from the GatorNationals on Monday, where I got to be one of the pit crew for a SuperStock and GT racing team. This is the kind of deal you need if you want to get into NHRA racing in an inexpensive kind of way. And I want to!

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89 Firebird Formula
WS6 package,ZZ4 Crate engine
SLP 58MM TB, Edelbrock TES Headers
Random Tech 3" cat, SLP 3" stainless exhaust
9 bolt rear, Hotchiss swing arms, Lakewood panhard rod
Corvette 2/4 servo, kevlar band, full poly rear.
Centerline 16x8 rims, B.F Goodrich drag radials

 

If you are looking to build a race car this sounds like a good start. sounds to me like 2K worth of stuff. a fried just had Cage work done, lexan & body assy (fiberglass) & painting done to his 69 this was about 5K worth of work. mind you the car is spotless, but that was only about 3K the other 2K was lexan & labor.

I give it two thumbs up. if on the other hand you are not planning to build the car, i would say pass. unless you know someone that you could offload it minus a bunch of parts.

BW

 

Craig,

$2000 is a good buy for all of that stuff. The parts alone are worth more than that. The only question that you need to ask is if you want a racecar right now ... because that definitely won't be a streetcar

Anyhow - gotta lock this up.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org