Curious,

Not running AC so don't need the rpm adder for it.
Can I just close the IAC, unplug it and set the idle
at the TB. Or are there other factors involved

Thanks

Later

 

Anyone

 

You could do that, just reset the TPS once it is idling where you want it to be.

What I'm not sure of is how the car will act without the throttle follower function of the IAC.

Just unplug it, and see what happens

 

It won't keep that idle speed when cold, for sure. Oil friction is going to pull it way down. Will require keeping your foot in it until warm.

Starting will also require a little bit of throttle input.

Decelerating will have huge vacuum, and will feel like the brakes are on, if in certain gears with overrun lockup.

DFCO will have a good chance of stalling, or at least undershooting the idle speed.

Basically, WHY the heck not use it?!?!?!?

 

Thanks for reply's,

While waiting for things to warm up a little around here,
snow, rain ect just an idea was thinking about.
As to the vacumm, wouldn't there be less vacumm as
TB blades would be open further at closing or idle?
Looking for a higher stable warm idle. Still have to play with
throttle until close to CL and warm anyway. Just wondering
if IAC has any direct input with fueling other than idle control.

Also running a 3000 lockup verter so minimal idle load
there and no AC so think only things it would control.

Will give it a shot when warms up.
Closed shop door and cam overlap hard on the breathing
Roger on the TPS reset.
Any other input appreciated.

Later

 

IAC controls air only. What that air does depends on the engine and calibration. If no extra load is applied, the RPMs will go up. If the cam is lumpy, a higher RPM will give a higher vacuum.
If the MAF works and is calibrated, or MAP works + VE is calibrated, it won't change A/F by itself.

Lumpy cam engines should idle higher, plus a tad leaner (depending on a few things). If it's really rough, it might be going through a cycle of misfire, then EGR with unburned fuel, then rich burn, then EGR with no unburned fuel, then misfire, then EGR with unburned fuel......

More idle spark advance and low RPM spark advance usually helps. Very high is Ok even. Some won't run well at all with less than 20, some love 30.
Higher target idle speed is a must for a significantly bigger cam (Idle RPM vs Coolant Temp). If using $8D, I think the new AUJP has a way around the 800 RPM max idle speed in gear.

 

Thanks on reply,

''Starting'' to get a drift on this I think.
Running MAF-PcFormless starter chip-6E.xdf and bin
based off the ABWN.bin.
Trying to get warm idle up around 950-975 stable.
Also trying to cure PB vacumm issues because of cam
overlap. Braking under 3000, problem, because of loose
converter and #11-#12 of vacumm at idle.
No EGR and disabled in bin.
Timing 6 unpluged 26 pluged at idle.
Isn't the AUJP a SD bin??
Maybe play with 6E-expanded xdf as to this, but still pretty
much greek to me right now!!
Addition advise appreciated.
Sun came out today, Thats a plus