Hey guys,
I have a '93 LT1 in a '72 Chevy Vega. I have a Moates AutoProm with G1 adapter. I am using a relatively new Windows7-based laptop to connect via the AutoProm's USB port.

I have a ribbon cable running from the AutoProm to a G1 adapter. I also have the stock prom plugged into the G1 adapter. The laptop is running Tunercat Pro RT.

When I turn on the key I am getting a solid light on the ALDL connector. The harness is a Painless Wiring PN 90501 (LT1).

I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing and I've paid for a spot in a car show this weekend. I tried to call Moates but they are closed. Can someone give me a hand? I think I have a 512 chip plugged into the G1, too.

I dunno. To be honest, the documentation is a bit confusing as it doesn't match the layout of the back panel on my AutoProm.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm sure my Vega will be the only one at the show.

Thanks,
Colin

 

I'll also add that it doesn't seem to matter which way the switches are set on the back of the AutoProm. The CEL stays constantly on.

Also, I get an error when I verify the chip. And TunerCat says that the chip isn't blank but when I erase it, the operation is successful. Bad chip? Bad AutoProm?

 

Tuner Cat or Tuner Pro RT?

I'm not intimately familiar with the AutoProm, since I use an Ostrich myself. What I o know is that the switches are very important in settings, and at least when using Tuner Pro, the preferences set-up to see the USB as the AutoProm is also important.

The solid CEL is indicating that the ECM is not reading a proper bin.

What happens when you plug in the stock MEMCAL without the G1 adaptor?

Also there should be either the EMU cable from the AutoProm or the EPROM plugged into the EPROM socket of the G1.

There shouldn't be an EPROM installed in the ZIF socket of the AutoProm while trying to emulate either.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! OK, so I'm correct that the PCM isn't reading a proper bin. That's a solid starting point..

I haven't tried the stock MEMCAL. I downloaded a BDLD 7063 (93 LT1 M6) bin from the net and have been going off that.

OK, so I should remove the EPROM from the EPROM side of the G1 and just run the stock MEMCAL for limp home mode? Then all emulation is done from there? After I get it running I can put the EPROM into the top of the AutoProm and burn a new bin? Basically, the AutoProm allows me to tune real time and then after I'm happy I just burn a new EPROM?

That definitely changes the game, then.

I'll report back in a bit with results. Thanks for the help!
Colin

 

OK,
I just went outside and looked at how I have it setup. I have the G1 in the PCM. The stock MEMCAL is inserted onto the top of the G1 adapter. Here's how I have it setup. If you are looking at the G1 adapter with the ribbon cable/EPROM socket facing you, the stock PROM/MEMCAL is inserted onto the top of the G1 with the CALPAK on the right side of the G1 adapter. My ribbon cable has a red stripe and it is on the same end as the level that locks the cable onto the G1 adapter.

I have tried multiple settings on the AutoProm switches (mine has vertical for the 10 ohm resistance instead of horizontal like newer AutoProms) and I've tried all three positions. I currently have the outer switched moved into the "closer to SB cable" position. I have not plugged into the ALDL cable into the ALDL yet.

Thanks again,
Colin

 

From my information that sounds like a proper bin for LT1 and manual trans. It comes as being for the 16186819 ECM.

I think pictures of what you have here would help clear up the physical set-up confusion. You should only be able to plug in the EMU cable (grey ribbon cable) OR an EPROM into the IP socket of the G1, with the stock MEMCAL plugged into the side of it.

Yes, all emulation is done using the AutoProm, and the tuning software to upload to the AutoProm.

Yes, once you have a bin you're happy with you can program that bin to an EPROM and place that in the DIP socket of the G1.


That definitely changes the game, then.

I'll report back in a bit with results. Thanks for the help!
Colin[/QUOTE]

 

The physical installation sounds correct, again pictures would help clear that up.

The 10K switch is only for datalogging and only needed for the '165 (an similar) ECM.

Have you seen this page? http://support.moates.net/2008/09/17/autoprom-apu1/

 

I read that page in depth. As far as I can tell, I was doing everything correctly.

Here are pictures of my back panel on the AutoProm and the cable installation on the G1 adapter.

Thanks for the help.

 

OK, am I an idiot? I had read this page regarding the G1 adapter before: http://support.moates.net/2008/10/31/g1/

I just noticed in this picture that there is a dot and arrow on the EPROM in this picture...


Do I have my ribbon cable on backwards?

 

You do.

 

Alright,
So I tried the cable the other way. I just had the ribbon cable on backwards. I went through the same process as before:
- Initialized the hardware
- Enabled emulation
- Uploaded the BIN to EMU
- Verified

Success!

Only question is this...my Painless Harness has an ALDL harness with a check engine light. Shouldn't it go out after a few seconds? It still stays on steady. Do I have my original PROM installed backwards on the G1?

Thanks,
Colin

 

The MEMCAL install looks right.

You may need to check the codes to see what the ECM is complaining about. It may be something that you don't have connected, in which case you will need to disable the error code, and/or change the parameters that would cause the code to be set in the first place.

Also while emulating, as in actually changing variables you will need to "disable checksum," by changing the code mask bit to "AA."

 

That may be the issue as I don't have my throttle body on yet. How do I disable the checksum in Tuner Pro RT? When I am done changing variables how do I re-enable the checksum?

I'm getting close, here.

Thanks again,
Colin

 

When using Tuner Pro RT, some XDFs, especially newer ones, will have the code mask bit under the scalars item tree, usually near the top. This again, should show you a value that matches your code mask. Change this "AA" and that will disable checksum. You can leave it this way and not have any issues. If you want, when you are ready to burn the bin to an EPROM, you can set it back to the original setting, save an the checksum will be updated.
This works with Tuner Pro RT for sure, I don't know about Tuner Cat, since I haven't used it.

If the Tuner Cat file doesn't have the code mask bit, then you will have to manually edit the hex. I'm not sure which bit would need to be changed in your case, I don't know if the LT1 code uses 0x08 for the code mask bit.

 

Also, don't forget to reset the ECM by disconnecting the power for a few minutes.

 

Hey guys,
An update. Haven't really had much time to work on the car the past month. I got all the sensors installed and connected today. Ran the fuel pump wire from the Painless harness back to the fuel pump. I connected that wire to the gray wire on my pump assembly. Then I grounded the black wire from the pump assembly. Turned the key, nothing.

I was able to get the bin upload to verify...turns out that the AutoProm doesn't like uploading with the cable backwards on the zif socket. LOL. Anyway, all I've done is turn off VATS.

I turned the key and the pump didn't prime. I'm kinda stuck where to go next. I think my Painless harness has a fuel pump prime connector. Do I just wrap a wire around the positive terminal on my battery and give the fuel pump prime connector 12v? Also, how do I clear out all the codes in TunerPro RT? Do I have to reset each code by hand or is there a mass reset function?

Thanks for the help.
Colin