I have a 14point7.com spartan sensor. I have used them before on my nissan and worked fine (now I wonder though)

I have been using my NB stock OEM, new replacement, to tune my 88 $6e auto 305TPI. I have gotten the BLM into the right range it feels and sound good, barks the tires. I had ot add more fuel across the board since I upgraded to southbays, the fuel pressure is a little low and AIR tube plugs leak so sees lean at idle. So injector constant at 17. And the MAF1 required more fuel and AE/PE was lean at top added more fuel and took spark out for some knock although I still get false knock because of exhaust leak/AIR tube chatter

Otehrwise I can hear/smeel when it is lean or rich and tell by SOTP as well and my stock NB confirmed this. After I feel I have a good tune I can drive idle with I swapped in my WB.

First one would not get any signals once powered up. the NB signal was stuck at 0 volts and same for the WB output 0-5v.

They repaired it and sent it back: But same thing almost. Good power, installed and I grounded the heater to the frame and that works. The WB signal I sent to my moates and used the gnd on the APU1. The WB had no more then 0.1V and the NB signal is stuck at 1000mv.

I tried grounded the moates and the heater to the same point and the NB started to move. Stayed rich at 950mv then after heat up it swings what looks like normal pattern. BUT it is simulated so I think unless major swings occur it will always report 14.7 just to fool the PC. Then you use the WB to adjust Once I did this the WB on my voltmeter reads the same 0-.3v and in Tunerpro my AFR stay at 11.5-12. I though t that was ok maybe I am super rich at 17 inj constant

SO I upped the inj from 17-18-19-20 and the AFR never moved but my NB was starting to read lean and the car had that lean idle smell and knock ran like cr*p.

14point7 support is slow. Never answer phone and take weeks to answer email.

So: Any way to test a WB to sure at least the output is working? I assume at power up with engine off the AFR would peg at 5v or 20 AFR?

Is WB ground that critical (cause the chassis ground helped) maybe I need to take the ground direct to the battery?

 

Run the WB controller grounds to the engine block. I pluralized ground as our unit has a separate heater and analog ground. Not sure about theirs.

For a quick test remove the sensor from the exhaust. Grab a butane cig lighter, power up the WB controller and observe the output voltage. It should be pegged lean (5V). From the lighter squirt some butane into the tip of the sensor.

It should go dead rich, slowly returning to full lean.

RBob.

 

Thanks I have it grounded under the dash. Both the heater and signal grounds. I tried them grounded apart and together seems to work better when grounded to same spot. You think grounding to engine block directly will improve signal response?

its a standard bosch lsu42 o2 sensor.

thanks for the test tip

 

The analog signal to the ECM will be more accurate when the ECM & WB controller have the same ground reference.

RBob.