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So, I tried to get started with tuning my engine a couple years ago. Then life grabbed me by the ***** again and my car had to sit a little while. I basically have to start all over as for I had forgotten most of the information I had gathered from tons of research before. Well I have been doing the research thing again and I am kinda of puzzled on a couple of things that may seem dumb of me to ask. First off, my goal is to build my own custom tune using a $6e mask and the ARAP bin (unless someone has a better opinion as to which bin to use). Now comes the questions.
My injectors were purchased from TPIS (30lb redtop bosch) and I did not get any data about them which makes me concerned about what to do with the injector pulse width correction vs battery voltage table?
Second question is understanding the spark advance table. When I look at the table and lets say I take a value located at 4000rpms and the lv8 is 48 and it says the value is 32.34. Is this the TOTAL timing that is being applied at that moment or do you add the 6 degrees of base timing to that number?
My car is a 1988 camaro with a 383 stroker engine, running about 10.5 compression. I have a Tpis mini-ram, their zz10 camshaft, with some rhs 200cc aluminum heads, and using 30lb bosch injectors. It is a 700r4 with a 3000 stall speed convertor and my most recent upgrade that I have done is installing a strange dana 60 with 4:10 gears. Currently, I have a custom chip from tpis installed in it, and while it runs "ok" im not 100% happy with it. Fuel economy is horrible, sometimes I will get a lean pop at part throttle, and at w.o.t. my wideband is showing me something like 11.2-11.4. Surprisingly it does idle somewhat decent, pretty steady at 7-800rpms and wideband typically around 15.
This is the timing table that is in the chip tpis sent me. To me it seems like I dont get enough timing at w.o.t
Now comes the questions. My injectors were purchased from TPIS (30lb redtop bosch) and I did not get any data about them which makes me concerned about what to do with the injector pulse width correction vs battery voltage table?
What is the part number on the injector?
Originally Posted by camaronut88z28
Second question is understanding the spark advance table. When I look at the table and lets say I take a value located at 4000rpms and the lv8 is 48 and it says the value is 32.34. Is this the TOTAL timing that is being applied at that moment or do you add the 6 degrees of base timing to that number?
The final value shown of 32.34 should equate to your mean value (average value) of the number values that are surrounding it in the graph, although I get a slightly different value when I do it with the calculator, but it's very close. It is the total timing, as remember your base timing already matches your spark reference in the chip... at least I hope it does.
Originally Posted by camaronut88z28
This is the timing table that is in the chip tpis sent me. To me it seems like I dont get enough timing at w.o.t
Most chips sent in the mail and not directly off of the dyno will be conservative with timing...
part # on my injectors is a F1SE-E9A or 957-0280 150 945 which from what i see a 30lb ford injector. I found only 1 place so far that claims these are rated at 43.5 psi (does that sound correct?) TPIS told me to set my fuel pressure at 47psi and leave it alone. This is how they set the fuel injectors in their tune
It tpis wanted my fuel pressure set at 47psi, shouldnt the flow rate be set to something closer to 31 in single and double fire.
part # on my injectors is a F1SE-E9A or 957-0280 150 945
From what I am reading these injectors flow between 35 & 36-lbs at 58-psi, which would put them at 31-lbs at 43.5-psi. If you're planning on setting your fuel pressure at 47-psi as per TPIS, then you need to set your injector flow rate to 32-lbs, or as they have it in bin as 29.85 at 40-psi. It all equals out correctly as follows; 29.85 @ 40-psi, 31 @ 43.5-psi, 32 @ 47-psi and 35.5 @ 58-psi. That is the flow rate for the varying pressures for those injectors. However, if you're telling the ECM that you're running at 40-psi fuel pressure then I would not advise you turn up the pressure to 47-psi while keeping the value at 29.85. TPIS may have their reasons though, which more than likely is because of the high flowing mini-ram which can be seen in the way they calculate the injector pulse width.
Is it safe to say that the computer doesnt know what the actual fuel pressure is set to and that keeping the fuel pressure at the recommended 47psi while adjusting the value to 31 @ 40psi would be a reasonable starting point for a start from scratch tune? I am also a little concerned about the stock spark table in the arap bin (seems a little aggressive in the part throttle range).
My car is a 1988 camaro with a 383 stroker engine, running about 10.5 compression. I have a Tpis mini-ram, their zz10 camshaft, with some rhs 200cc aluminum heads, and using 30lb bosch injectors. It is a 700r4 with a 3000 stall speed convertor and my most recent upgrade that I have done is installing a strange dana 60 with 4:10 gears. Currently, I have a custom chip from tpis installed in it, and while it runs "ok" im not 100% happy with it. Fuel economy is horrible, sometimes I will get a lean pop at part throttle, and at w.o.t. my wideband is showing me something like 11.2-11.4. Surprisingly it does idle somewhat decent, pretty steady at 7-800rpms and wideband typically around 15.
How big throttle body? that can make a big difference on the fuel mileage and part throttle lean popping. Bigger TBs are harder to get tuned in right for street use. .
First off start looking at your BLMs fuel trims to see how your ECM is trying to compensate right now. This is a big first step and will put the rest of it into perspective. If you have all positive fuel trims everywhere, then it generally means you might want to adjust your injector constant a little to clean that up. Also if they are positive, then they will be added on to the commanded AFR at WOT, which would explain how rich you are there.
Once the fuel trims and your WOT AFR are in line, then you'll probably need to work with the AE - pump shot to try to work out those part throttle lean spots. Your intake and TB probably are the causes of those, and require extra work in the AE tables.
Is it safe to say that the computer doesnt know what the actual fuel pressure is set to and that keeping the fuel pressure at the recommended 47psi while adjusting the value to 31 @ 40psi would be a reasonable starting point for a start from scratch tune? I am also a little concerned about the stock spark table in the arap bin (seems a little aggressive in the part throttle range).
The computer knows nothing other than the programmed algorithm to fire the injector in conjunction with O2 correction. It balances it out. You can put your fuel pressure to 50-psi, doesn't matter, so long as the range of correction is within the O2 correction parameter, which is normally six percent with these old systems. The timing is not aggressive at all, you should see the $8D bin, areas with over 41* of timing at part throttle with engines coming from the factory with iron heads. It gets averaged though so the final value is less for that value. You're running aluminum heads though, and hopefully you're running a better thermostat with your fans kicking on much earlier than stock. That SA table looks conservative to me with your setup, TPIS left power on the table...
I am running a 58mm throttle body. I am going to try to get some datalogs with tunerproRT and upload them on here and see what people think. I have a datalog from about 2yrs ago when i had the 3:73 gears in it. Somehow my port settings have been messed with and I was having issues yesterday getting my laptop to communicate with my ecm with minimal amout of errors.
i did check that yesterday (i actually read one of your posts where you talked about that) they are all set to zero. If i am understanding this correctly tpis has this tuned to only give it 26 degree advance at w.o.t.
i did check that yesterday (i actually read one of your posts where you talked about that) they are all set to zero. If i am understanding this correctly tpis has this tuned to only give it 26 degree advance at w.o.t.
Now this is the very key part with what TPIS had done. Remember that you are running a 3000 stall speed converter, and notice how most of the aggressive portion of your timing is set during your cruise area between 1800-RPM and 2800-RPM. This is to keep the engine loaded during cruise so that when you floor it, the converter flashes to 3000-RPM, and the power is already there waiting for the torque converter to couple. Think of it in terms of acceleration enrichment but with timing...
I am running a 170 degree t-stat and my fans come on about 180degree. In your opinion do you think I should try and tweak their tune or just over?
26* at wide open throttle is low, but if you tweak it up, do it in very small increments. Reason being is because when you make a change, it affects other areas as well because it averages out based on the surrounding values. Just add one degree at a time until you're happy, just monitor knock and coolant temps closely. First things first though, take care of those lean pops you are getting by adding fuel where you need to. What kind of fuel are you running at that compression ratio?
Im running 93 pump gas, compression is only like 10.2 or 10.3 to 1. If i got a current datalog would you be willing/able to take a look at it and help me work through the fueling issues first before i go after timing?
Im running 93 pump gas, compression is only like 10.2 or 10.3 to 1. If i got a current datalog would you be willing/able to take a look at it and help me work through the fueling issues first before i go after timing?
Seems like they left it at 26 deg as long as no other adders are present. Coolant temp table? Etc
If so probably can get to 34-36 deg on rhs heads. They seem to like timing but sneak up on it once you get wot fuel in the mid 12's to start. Use pe mode % enrichment vs rpm
04-23-2017, 05:11 PM
