Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Intermittent no crank problem with my 1991 TA w/5 spd.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 20, 2002 | 09:10 PM
  #1  
mypontiac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 765
Likes: 0
Car: 1991 Conv. TA
Engine: Forged 350 with D-1SC
Intermittent no crank problem with my 1991 TA w/5 spd.

My 1991 TA with 5 speed is giving me some no crank problems.

SOMETIMES when I turn the key with the clutch down nothing happens.

If I get a jump from a battery or from my charger it starts right up.

I checked the battery with a specific gravity tester and all cells read good.

I put the battery on the charger and the fully charged light is lit.

Does it sound like the starter solinoid is going bad? If so, why will it still start with a jump?

Thanks.
Reply
Old May 22, 2002 | 12:02 AM
  #2  
Tim Burgess's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
Assuming that the Security light comes on and then turns off after about 2 seconds after turning on the ignition switch, it's probably not the VATS system causing the problem. Try turning on the head lights when the problem occurs. If the lights don't dim when the ignition switch is in the start position, then the problem is not the power source (the battery), but rather the load (starter) or one of the many current switching devices (ignition switch, VATS starter disable relay, clutch start switch, starter solenoid contacts). If the lights do dim when the ignition switch is in the start position, then the problem is in the battery or wires conducting the current from the battery to the solenoid or starter motor.
Reply
Old May 22, 2002 | 01:34 AM
  #3  
pianiy's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey
Follow the route that Tim suggested in diagnosing where you have current and where it breaks. I'd suggest getting the car up on jacks and testing if you have 12+V directly at the solenoid. If you do then the solenoid/starter is the problem, but if you don't then backtrack through the route that Tim suggested. Mine did something like this a few months ago and it was a bad solenoid (which I found out after alot of forward tracking).
Reply
Old May 22, 2002 | 08:33 PM
  #4  
mypontiac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 765
Likes: 0
Car: 1991 Conv. TA
Engine: Forged 350 with D-1SC
Thanks for the suggestions. It ended up being a bad starter.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jhawkeye
Engine Swap
5
May 25, 2022 06:33 PM
deracer
Camaros for Sale
3
Apr 11, 2016 12:04 AM
cam-mike
Suspension and Chassis
8
Aug 24, 2015 07:23 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:52 PM.