Intermittent no crank problem with my 1991 TA w/5 spd.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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Car: 1991 Conv. TA
Engine: Forged 350 with D-1SC
Intermittent no crank problem with my 1991 TA w/5 spd.
My 1991 TA with 5 speed is giving me some no crank problems.
SOMETIMES when I turn the key with the clutch down nothing happens.
If I get a jump from a battery or from my charger it starts right up.
I checked the battery with a specific gravity tester and all cells read good.
I put the battery on the charger and the fully charged light is lit.
Does it sound like the starter solinoid is going bad? If so, why will it still start with a jump?
Thanks.
SOMETIMES when I turn the key with the clutch down nothing happens.
If I get a jump from a battery or from my charger it starts right up.
I checked the battery with a specific gravity tester and all cells read good.
I put the battery on the charger and the fully charged light is lit.
Does it sound like the starter solinoid is going bad? If so, why will it still start with a jump?
Thanks.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
Assuming that the Security light comes on and then turns off after about 2 seconds after turning on the ignition switch, it's probably not the VATS system causing the problem. Try turning on the head lights when the problem occurs. If the lights don't dim when the ignition switch is in the start position, then the problem is not the power source (the battery), but rather the load (starter) or one of the many current switching devices (ignition switch, VATS starter disable relay, clutch start switch, starter solenoid contacts). If the lights do dim when the ignition switch is in the start position, then the problem is in the battery or wires conducting the current from the battery to the solenoid or starter motor.
Follow the route that Tim suggested in diagnosing where you have current and where it breaks. I'd suggest getting the car up on jacks and testing if you have 12+V directly at the solenoid. If you do then the solenoid/starter is the problem, but if you don't then backtrack through the route that Tim suggested. Mine did something like this a few months ago and it was a bad solenoid (which I found out after alot of forward tracking).
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