I hooked up a autometer phantom water temp guage by replacing the sender on the driver side of the engine (under the exhaust manifolds) with the one autometer gives you.
The guage works fine.

Since that I replaced the sender that the stock guage used the stock guage stopped working.

I was bored today, so I hooked the wire that was connected to the old sender to the new sender.. but I kept the wire running to the autometer guage connected. Now only the stock guage works. (and is giving about the same temps as the autometer)

Is there anyway I can make both guages work off of that one sender? I just want the stock guage to register something close to the actual temp because its kind of annoying when it sits there at 0 deg.. i figured if I could do this without adding another sender it would be a lot easier (and I don't have any taps).

Thanks.

89GTA5spd

 

Piece of cake - I believe the stock one is a 5V unit but Tim or somebody will correct me if I'm wrong. If the autometer also uses 5V reference than you must have something hooked up wrong. All you really need to do is get some brass fittings: a pipe to screw into the block, a "t" connector and then a new stock sender. Then just screw each sender into the T fitting and wire them both. Hope that helps - you should've seen the wacked-out fitting setup I had rigged on my old 87Z for the oil pressure to use a newer style sender - you can do anything with fittings!!

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Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, flow tech headers on the way,
engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...

 

on your other head there should be a pipe-plug in the temp-sender port location. Just remove the plug and put in another sender.. no problem.

good luck



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*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

 

Cool.. i'll go take a look at the other head tommorow. Since it's pretty difficult to see that part of the head do you know how to remove the plug? Do i have to punch it out? is it something you remove with a socket? Maybe this will be more clear to me tommorow when I look at it.

Thanks.

 

If the plug is there, remove the header and sparkplugs out of the way. Use a 1/2" drive breaker-bar and socket to remove it.
If you try to use a smaller drive or weak socket it is likely to break.

good luck again


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*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

 

This may not work. I think I remember Pablo or someone who tried this and was getting really high temp readings. The consensus was that the flow of the coolent went past the temp sender in it's stock location first (cooler) and the passanger side location last (much hotter). I am not 100% that was the reason, just be aware if you see temps around 280F.



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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

the coolant enters the pump from the bottom hose, then enters the block on both left and right sides, then travels through the block towards the rear and some up to the heads, then into the heads and back to the front, then up into the intake and out via the top radiator hose.

There should be minimal difference between the left and right head.