Rear Hatch Motor/Latch Stuck Open
Luckily there's only a chance of rain in the forcast for tomorrow My rear hatch is currently taped and chained down because the motor is not engaging. I checked the LID fuse, it's not blown. I took the rear panel off and the grounds all looked secure, but it would be worth double checking if there's one specifically that everyone has a problem with. I tried to clean off the little metal connections that I think are supposed to engage the motor (or are those just for the remote hatch-release switch?), but how exactly does the pull down motor work?

Just FYI, the courtesy light that indicates the hatch is OPEN was on, until it burnt out. the Rear Hatch switch on the center console DOES function properly (it releases the latch itself if I force it closed without the lid down).

The hatch motor had made a funny clicking noise and never closed the hatch absolutely completely (it didn't leak tho); I've only owned this car for 2 months.

How can I tell if my motor is stuck "down"? I've read on this board that there might be a "reset" button that will push the motor back up if it's stuck down.......On my '87 Camaro, I can just push the hatch down very hard and it will latch, the one I'm having a problem with right now is an '89.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've read through a bunch of old threads on this but none seem to draw any conclusions.

James

 

there's a fuse for it, check that first. If your fuse is ok email this guy, he's a pro with these (I had a problem with mine and he fixed it right up at a reasonable price, has all the parts too.)

Lon topdownsolutions@yahoo.com

 

Mine has done this three times. The fix took about 3 seconds after someone else at this site pointed me in the right direction.

Open the hatch and look down at the latch assembly. There should be a little finger/lever down inside the u-shaped piece that accepts the loop from the hatch. Fiddle the lever until the motor engages. This will move the assembly to the up position. Close hatch normally.

Assuming your threads aren't hosed, the motor isn't hosed, or the fused isn't blown. This should do the trick.

 

Let me start by clearing up a few misconceptions. It is good that you cleaned the contact pads. Now your third brake light will work properly (assuming you have replaced the burned out bulbs (1.99 at Radio Shack)). The contact pads are for the HMSL (high mount stop light) from 86-90 or the rear window wiper (82-85). The hatch release solenoid is powered by another circuit. The fact that it works has no bearing on the condition of the pull-down unit . You are correct to look at the "LID" fuse. That is the fuse that powers the hatch pull-down unit for 87-91 cars. The 86 cars have a separate fuse wired to the fuse block. The relay for the pull-down is directly below it. The cargo light working is a good sign. The cargo light is powered through the hatch pull-down unit on 89-91 cars. Earlier models have a separate manual switch for the cargo light. Most of the problems described so far in this thread are all due to the hatch pull-down plastic motor housing being broken. The housings break and malfunction due to the hatch being slammed shut (unknowing car wash worker), worn hatch struts (replace them), worn guides (white plastic injection molded pieces, they break into many pieces). Once the motor housing is broken the hatch pull-down won't be in alignment. There are 2 switches, one at the latch which senses the latch hook the other reversses the direction of the motor and is tripped by a tab on the rod that drives the latch mechanism up/down. Correct the housing and guides and the unit will work correctly. Bad alignment will also cause the gear nut (plastic) that is driven by the motor and drives the rod up/down to break its teeth. The symptom of a bad gear nut is the motor will continue to run, yet the unit will not move up/down. I have the 3 items you need in stock. 1) Reinforced Motor Housings. I reinforce new GM motor housings with 4 pieces of aluminum and epoxy. These always crack and break where they mount with 3 screws to the frame of the pull-down unit. This is the area I reinforce. 2) Replacement Nylon Guides. I machine new guided from solid nylon. They are a direct drop-in replacement and much stronger than the OEM injection molded disaster. 3) I also stock new Gear Nuts. I also have a few new motors. But the motor rarely fails. E-mail me if you are in need of the parts. I'll send you a Price List and ordering instructions. Lon

 

I ended up double checking the fuse... it had blown sometime between when I checked it and when I first tried the little black button/lever that I thought I was looking for....... when I thought I had tried everything else, I double checked the fuse again and it was blown... SO, I did end up getting my hatch down...

however, in the process I dismounted the entire motor assembly and noticed that the little 'nylon guides' - the white pieces that the motor slides up and down on - are cracked on one side and broken on the other. This isn't *really* causing the motor to malfunction, but I'm sure it's putting unnecessary stress on it...

so lonsal, feel free to e-mail me your parts list and prices...

Thanks once again for the help everyone,

James

 

You have to wonder why the fuse blew. Be sure you hear a "Click" when the pull-down unit has finished its cycle. Otherwise the motor will still be energized. The click is the reversing switch being flipped by the tang on the rod. If you don't hear the click you can try moving the unit up a little and retightening it. If you've had it apart to replace the gear nut you may have the position of the rod incorret. You will have to pull it apart and turn the gear nut lowering the rod, then re-install. I hope you marked the original position of the hatch pull-down unit with a permanent marker or awl before you removed it. I've e-mailed you my Price List.

 

I was wise enough to mark the position of the motor housing before removing it...

The only clicking I really hear seems to be as the motor slides further down the guides (to where they are broken, it's pushing them out and cracking them some more...... it is a consistent click, three or four times...

I'm d/l-ing the price list now.. what a service..

James

 

Actually marking the position of the motor housing isn't important. It is located by the 3 screws so you can't mess up on its location. But if you remove the ENTIRE pull-down assy (which I recommend in order to properly repair it) you should mark the position of it to the body before removal. There are square holes that allow for lots of adjustment. It is a lot more trouble to get it aligned after repair if you didn't mark it first. DO NOT remove the cover from the motor. I'll e-mail you a picture showing what I am referring to. Lon

 

lonsal, do you have the Solenoid or combo for the 1992 camaros, I can't seem to find a 92 with it on in the bone yard, they are all gone. Remember in 92 they changed the solenoid and hardware.

 

Not yet. I haven't been able to get my hands on a 92 hatch pull-down unit yet. The gear-nut is the same as used in the 86-91 pull-down units.

 

Hi there Ionsal,

I am new here. Found this older post when searching google for info on my faulty hatch pull down.

I have a ‘89 Formula. The pull down failed when I went to open it. The motor keeps running and the latch is stuck in a mid-close position. I pulled the fuse and connector so the motor doesn’t burn out.

Plastic guides are definitely shot and by your diagnosis of the motor continuously running, the gear nut is done. I also need to change the hatch struts as they are weather dependent right now.

Do you still have these parts? If so please DM me. Thanks!

 

I had a problem where the hatch wouldn't latch down. I checked all of the fuses and they were good. went to the latch assembly and just adjusted it with a wrench and everything looked good. The latch came up and I pressed down on the hatch and everything locked up and pulled the hatch into position. I lucked out.
i know this thread is pretty old and not many may see this, but I just took a chance it may matter