Failed Inspection due to Faulty Highbeams... Help!
Failed Inspection due to Faulty Highbeams... Help!
I just took my car to get inspected and failed because the highbeams didn't work. When they turned them on the headlights just turned off and when they turned the highbeams off the headlight turned back on.
My question is if the regular lights work and the highbeams use the same bulb, that means the high-beam bulb is good?
Second is there a relay for the highbeams and where is it. Our cars are famous for having faulty relays that control stupid things.
Thanks for the help,
-Max
My question is if the regular lights work and the highbeams use the same bulb, that means the high-beam bulb is good?
Second is there a relay for the highbeams and where is it. Our cars are famous for having faulty relays that control stupid things.
Thanks for the help,
-Max
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
Sounds like the high beam switch is defective. The switch is mounted to the column, near the ignition switch, if the high beams are multifunction lever activated. If you have a Berlinetta, the high beams are controlled by a relay in the light control module under the passenger side dash.
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Tim
1992 Z28, 305 TPI 5 speed, 12.1 sec @ 114.7 mph
1984 Berlinetta 305 TPI Auto, 13.8 sec @ 99.7 mph
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Tim
1992 Z28, 305 TPI 5 speed, 12.1 sec @ 114.7 mph
1984 Berlinetta 305 TPI Auto, 13.8 sec @ 99.7 mph
How would I go about fixing the highbeam switch? Also I think it actually switches them on (highbeam light comes on in dash) its just that somehow the signal doesn't get to the lights themslefs. Thanks for the help
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: So.west IN
Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
The switch to the highbeams is located on the steering column, to the left side, under the 'hush' panel (trim cover). The switch isn't very expensive or hard to replace once you see where it's at. To make it somewhat easier you may want to remove the 4 nuts holding the steering column up so you can have a little better access to the switch. It's only a matter of unplugging, unbolting & installing the new one. There is a rod that connects it to the stalk tho, be somewhat careful of that, it shouldn't just plop out but if you want to be careful, once you remove the switch you can tape the rod to the column.
According to the 'great' haynes manual for birds, the high beam indicator is spliced into the power wire for the high beams close to the lamps themselves. You may want to check the green wire at the plug on the lamps themselves for +12v before rolling around under your dash. Uncommon but, not impossible, both your high beam elements might be out.
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The mind is like a parachute, it only works when its open
According to the 'great' haynes manual for birds, the high beam indicator is spliced into the power wire for the high beams close to the lamps themselves. You may want to check the green wire at the plug on the lamps themselves for +12v before rolling around under your dash. Uncommon but, not impossible, both your high beam elements might be out.
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Before replacing the switch you should check your bulbs. Although high and low beams are using the same housing they have seperate elements for each. You can confirm this by looking at the connector. Dual element lamps will have 3 wires going to them. A visual inspection may reveal broken elements but not always. You may need to use an ohmmeter. You can also test your switch by using a voltmeter or testlamp at the connectors to the lamps.
Ahhh, voltmeter, ohmeter, I just don't understand Electrics however hard I try
I guess I'm going to need my friend who knows this stuff to help me out. Thanks for the help everybody, at least you gave me a starting point.
I guess I'm going to need my friend who knows this stuff to help me out. Thanks for the help everybody, at least you gave me a starting point. Thread
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