I have a '85 T/A with the 305. I'm not sure what size alt. it has in it, and I wasn't able to find any markings anywhere resembling the amp output.

Here's the deal. I was thinking of custom making a bracket the bolted to the frame under the nose and comes up in front of the bumper to house some driving lights. I'm looking at (4) LightForce 100W lights: (2) 9.5" 240 Blitz's, or (2) 6.6" 170 Striker's, or all 4. I just want to be able to see at night, and the stock lights don't cut it. I would love to get a single set of 240 Blitz HID's, but they are $1500.

I'm also putting in a 600W mono amp, and a 200W head unit to replace the stock system.

So, according to a formula that I learned a while back, the wattage = amps x volts, correct? That would mean I would be adding a 1000-1200W load to the current load... about 100 amps, and I'm guessing this is a little much. Any ideas on a high power alternator, or...? Or am I just plain crazy?

Thanks!

 

should ask in the car audio board for alt ideas when using stereo equipment. although they make a 105amp alt for our cars....guess i'll recommend that bad boy.....also have you thought about upgrading your factory headlights to silvania silverstars....they're very bright.

 

The maximum amperage draw that the amp can pull is the total amperage of the fuses on it. If it doesn't have fuses, then I think the formula you outlined is correct.

My old 85Z was a 105 amp, and so is my 87 and 92. If you look at the alternator casing, it should be stamped into it in very small print.

If you are planning on running the lights all the time, and playing the amp at or near capacity, I would upgrade to a higher amperage alternator, or running multiple alternators. Though by running a high amp alternator, you will almost always have noise in the system.

Matt

 

I just looked at going to Silvania Silverstars for the headlights, but do they come in low/high beams? I've read a lot about maros having them, but they have seperate high/low casings.

My '70 K5 blazer has a aftermarket high output alt. (200 amp I think) so would it work as a bolt-on for the 305? I think it's pretty much the same as a 350 except for the internals so it should work?

You can bypass the noise in the audio system by installing noise blocker resistors (from Crutchfield, etc.) in the power supplies (head unit, amp.)

Thanks for your replies!

 

You can install a 1/2 or 1 farad cap close to the battery and it will obsorb and eliminate alot of the noise. We've even had luck eliminating noise that an aftermarket ignition system introduces by using this method. I haven't had any kind of luck with the small capacitors you're referring to (it wouldn't be a resistor, that would only reduce voltage and probably start a fire with all the heat it would generate).

As long as the bracketry and clocking is the same for the alternators, it should work fine.

 

Right clocking for alt.? I haven't heard of that before. If you could explain that would be great. Has anyone tried a 350-sized alt. on a 305?

 

Yeah, GM used the same alternators for many vehicles, but the top of the case will be turned in 1/4 incraments to the bottom of the case. If I remember right, to adjust it all you need to do is remove the pulley, remove the 4 screws that hold the casing together, and carefully seperate it enough to turn it. You need to be careful though, or you can knock the brushes out or break em. They do it so they can utilize different mounting brackets and positions. I used to work at a parts house and we had to do this for customers all the time. As a matter of fact, I even had to do this on my 85 because the people at the reman. place set it up wrong.

As long as it uses the same case, clocking, and it's the same wiring setup it'll be a direct swap. There isn't any other reason why it wouldn't work. Since you already have the alternator from the other car, compare the one your using to it.

Good luck