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Trunk Hatch Problem

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Old May 29, 2004 | 01:20 AM
  #1  
cIaRmOaCrZo28's Avatar
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 92
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From: Arizona
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 liter 350
Trunk Hatch Problem

Alright, I was having a problem where my trunk would not stay shut. It drained the battery so I took it to a mechanic. He couldn't get it to work, so he simply took out the light, and disconnected the latch or whatever to hold the trunk shut. Now it's just sitting loose lower down. The trunk is pretty heavy so it stays shut except over speed bumps, but I want to get speakers and need to fix this, anyone ever experienced this, or have any suggestions.

I have never done anything with cars, but plan on starting to learn, this might be a good first project. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 07:50 AM
  #2  
acescarrsRS's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
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From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
If it's the electric pull down style then maybe the motor housing area where the 3 screws mount to the metal plate on the body cracked off. It's a common problem. It's kinda hard for me to explain but let me give you a pic of mine when it broke. Pm for more info if you find this to be the problem. Pull your panel off & look.
Attached Thumbnails Trunk Hatch Problem-rearhatchlockinfo1.jpg  
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Old May 29, 2004 | 07:50 AM
  #3  
acescarrsRS's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
Here's a side pic of the area that cracked. Kinda hard to see though. Also, Lon(TDS) has some good repair kits & parts for the rear hatch lock stuff. Go check it out. That's where I bought my stuff from.
Attached Thumbnails Trunk Hatch Problem-rearhatchlockinfo2.jpg  

Last edited by acescarrsRS; May 29, 2004 at 07:54 AM.
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Old May 29, 2004 | 01:11 PM
  #4  
lonsal's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I reinforce the motor housings I sell with aluminum and epoxy where those 3 screws mount it to the frame. Look at the tech article I wrote on this web site on how to repair it. You'll be able to diagnose a broken hatch pull-down motor housing easily once you have the rear hatch surround piece removed. It sounds as if your striker-sensing switch is bad. That is the small black switch that is held onto the latch area with a single phillips head screw. That switch was discontinued by GM last year, but I still have a few available on my web site.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 03:58 AM
  #5  
cIaRmOaCrZo28's Avatar
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 92
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From: Arizona
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: 5.7 liter 350
alright, I will take that apart as soon as I get a chance this weekend, just got my power doors working, fixed some scratches on my rims a lil and installed a cd player...gotta stop takin things off for a day or 2....ill bug you a bunch as soon as I get the cover off and figure out what it is

...also need to replace the 2 hatch supports, whatever there name is...not sure really, they hold it open =) any idea how much these run...and if it's possible for someone with little experience to put it?

Last edited by cIaRmOaCrZo28; Jun 4, 2004 at 04:01 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2004 | 04:12 AM
  #6  
acescarrsRS's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
Check out TDS & go into hatch pull down items. Pretty good price on the hatch struts in there for me at least. Lon's price is cheaper than what I pay in Hawaii for the same damn thing lol!
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