Camaro dash into Firebird
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,209
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From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
Camaro dash into Firebird
All of it. The whole nine yards. I searched to see if it's been done, and didn't come up with much, so I'm guessing it's either a fools errand or no one has thought about doing it before. The ENTIRE interior, save for the headliner and a-pillar pieces are being used, even the seats. I see that the plastic trim pieces aren't going to be a problem, but the dash is going to be the biggest challenge - the dash pod for the 'bird has the electrical connections at the passenger ends, the Camaro ones are in-line near the bottom of the pod. I know hat my wiring harness will need to be bent and some of the tape will be cut so I can move it into location on the Camaro's dash.
It was a pain getting the Camaro dash out of the car, I didn't know what to do for a bit, and tried not to hack any wiring on the dash itself up. The gages all work, thankfully and both cars are using mechanical speedos so they'll mate fine. What I'm wondering is - the Firebird didn't have oil pressure, voltmeter, temperture or tach and the Camaro pod does. I'd be pleasantly suprised if I have all four extra gages working when I plug it all in, but I'm thinking that they won't work. At least they'll look cool until I get sending units. The Firebird dash is laid out a bit better, as my tiny wife was able to get most of it unscrewed from the car by herself. I'm going to do the rest of the disconnecting tonight and we'll see how it goes.
Any comments or questions would be appreciated, like "DON'T DO IT, I DID AND IT FAILED!" so I can stop and try soemthing else.
It was a pain getting the Camaro dash out of the car, I didn't know what to do for a bit, and tried not to hack any wiring on the dash itself up. The gages all work, thankfully and both cars are using mechanical speedos so they'll mate fine. What I'm wondering is - the Firebird didn't have oil pressure, voltmeter, temperture or tach and the Camaro pod does. I'd be pleasantly suprised if I have all four extra gages working when I plug it all in, but I'm thinking that they won't work. At least they'll look cool until I get sending units. The Firebird dash is laid out a bit better, as my tiny wife was able to get most of it unscrewed from the car by herself. I'm going to do the rest of the disconnecting tonight and we'll see how it goes.
Any comments or questions would be appreciated, like "DON'T DO IT, I DID AND IT FAILED!" so I can stop and try soemthing else.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 3
From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
Your best option is to use the complete Firebird underdash harness, and splice into the wiring which goes to the rear section for the taillights, etc.
Stuff like the headlight switch and the defroster switch with it's seperate relay will make the Camaro harness a nightmare to adapt. Splicing into the wires running alongside the driver doorsill should be the easiest place to combine the two harnesses.
The wiring configuration at the firewall bulkhead (near the brake booster) is the same for both.
You'll also need to swap in the lower metal mounting brackets from the Firebird's body, as they are different Those are the brackets which attached to the lower corners of the 'bird's dash.
It's going to be a lot of work.
Stuff like the headlight switch and the defroster switch with it's seperate relay will make the Camaro harness a nightmare to adapt. Splicing into the wires running alongside the driver doorsill should be the easiest place to combine the two harnesses.
The wiring configuration at the firewall bulkhead (near the brake booster) is the same for both.
You'll also need to swap in the lower metal mounting brackets from the Firebird's body, as they are different Those are the brackets which attached to the lower corners of the 'bird's dash.
It's going to be a lot of work.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
I must have sent the impression that I'm changing harnesses, sorry for the confusion, I'm not. I'm keeping the Firebird harness in the car, still plugged in and stuff, so I can drive the car in event of a dire emergency - like getting the new doors put on Saturday, and the new doors are located five miles from where the car is, so... I only managed to get a few more screws out (it was beastly hot) and had to yank the radio to get at a few more screws that were buried behind it. The dash is in pieces but still stuck to the firewall somehow. I think I can get the harness free from the dash without mangling it too much, save cutting some tape off of it so I can bend it around so it fits in its new position on the Camaro dash panel. I'll take some pictures tonight of my progress so you all can see what crazy antics I'm up to, and tell me I'm psycho.
I'll have to do some delicate cutting of the Camaro dash to fit the Firebird headlight switch and defroster switch panel, that much is for certain.
I'll have to do some delicate cutting of the Camaro dash to fit the Firebird headlight switch and defroster switch panel, that much is for certain.
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Removing the dash is most certainly at the top of my difficulty scale. You will most likely need your wife to reach behind the dash and pull the wiring harness out of its clips that are located behind the lower edge of the dash. After the wiring is out of the way (disconnect the wiring at the harness connectors near the ECM.. you may need to do an idle relearn after this because this cuts power to the ECM) the dash practically falls out by itself.
There are about a dozen screws which hold the dash in place. There are about four/six at the top edge, where the dash pad also bolts to, some in the middle for the radio pod and its brackets, the two in each lower corner, and a couple down by the convenience center (been a while, maybe not here). Unbolt the fuse panel, ECM bracket (remove the wiring first), convenience center, speakers can be a PITA if they are still factory (broke one when removing it... the connector took part of the cone with it when the bracket on the speaker broke off)... the HVAC needs to be removed, the console needs to come out before the radio pod can (don't try this with the console in place... you end up with broken brackets on the pod!), and I think thats about it for the list...
You can unclip the wiring harness clips and remove the wiring from them, and then remove them from the dash if you need to. There is no way the dash is coming loose without the harness being removed from its clips... either long fingernails or a small standard screwdriver work wonders for those clips.
There are about a dozen screws which hold the dash in place. There are about four/six at the top edge, where the dash pad also bolts to, some in the middle for the radio pod and its brackets, the two in each lower corner, and a couple down by the convenience center (been a while, maybe not here). Unbolt the fuse panel, ECM bracket (remove the wiring first), convenience center, speakers can be a PITA if they are still factory (broke one when removing it... the connector took part of the cone with it when the bracket on the speaker broke off)... the HVAC needs to be removed, the console needs to come out before the radio pod can (don't try this with the console in place... you end up with broken brackets on the pod!), and I think thats about it for the list...
You can unclip the wiring harness clips and remove the wiring from them, and then remove them from the dash if you need to. There is no way the dash is coming loose without the harness being removed from its clips... either long fingernails or a small standard screwdriver work wonders for those clips.
Last edited by Maverick H1L; Jul 9, 2004 at 07:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
Are you talking about those little clips that wrap around the wire harness and clip into the dash? I got one off. The other one may be surgically removed... The connectors on the back of the dash just slip right out, no problems there. I think once I get this project done, I may be qualified to build rocket engines...
I haven't done much with the passenger side of the car yet...
I haven't done much with the passenger side of the car yet... Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
Likes: 6
From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Yeah, those can be a real PITA. There's about four of them under there IIRC, and most of them are tucked deep in where its nearly impossible to get at them. They are what hold the harnesses in place EVERYWHERE (
) and usually are clipped right in the WRONG places.
Don't worry about the harness... its pretty flexible. I know it don't look like it, but it is...
Also, you need to unclip the two light switch connectors from the dash if you haven't done it already, and remove the dimmer switch from the area to the lower right of the steering column. If you don't save this part, you have NO interior lighting at night (cluster, radio, HVAC)
- this needs to be screwed to a metal part of the dash or the body to function correctly.
) and usually are clipped right in the WRONG places.Don't worry about the harness... its pretty flexible. I know it don't look like it, but it is...

Also, you need to unclip the two light switch connectors from the dash if you haven't done it already, and remove the dimmer switch from the area to the lower right of the steering column. If you don't save this part, you have NO interior lighting at night (cluster, radio, HVAC)
- this needs to be screwed to a metal part of the dash or the body to function correctly.
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