hatch pull down questions
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Wilmington
Car: Depends on the day!
Engine: the kind that runs on money
Transmission: One that holds up, I hope
hatch pull down questions
hello, is there any differences in the hatch pull down assemblies over the years.? I may have to get another one and I was looking on ebay. I thought they changed around the end of the 80's. I have a 89 gta. I am restoring the car and right now I have the battery out of the car but I know it did not work before I started. I dont know if it is a fuse or a reverse switch. Next question. Is there a way to lower the unit so the hatch closes tighter until I can test out the problem??? Thanks
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
The change was in the 90 or 91 model year - I don't recall which one exactly, but all from thirdgen units 86 up to then were the same.
There may be another fuse located near the block that feeds the power pulldown portion. It may be partially bundled in the harness, and is only like 6-8" from the fuse block. It's almost like one of the add-on types you can buy, and should have a blue 15A fuse in it.
There may be another fuse located near the block that feeds the power pulldown portion. It may be partially bundled in the harness, and is only like 6-8" from the fuse block. It's almost like one of the add-on types you can buy, and should have a blue 15A fuse in it.
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
There are two fuses for the hatch, the "ACC" fuse powers the hatch release switch and the "LID" fuse powers the hatch release and pulldown assembly. As Petes 84Z28 has mentioned, the second (LID) fuse is a in-line fuse and is located in the wire bundle near the fuse block. It has a red/white wire.
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
There were minor construction differences between the 1986-87 and 1988-91 hatch pull-down units, but they were all functionally equivalent. In 1991 model year there was a major change to a unit with a tan plastic frame. The problem with buying a unit from eBay is that they are frequently listed as fitting a 19282-92 when in fact they won't. Also they are listed as "worked fine when removed" and you get a unit that is cracked with bad guides that soon fails. The non-pull down latch used from 1982 through 1985, power pull-down latch from 1986-91 and second design of power pull-down unit used from 1991-92 all have different mounting patterns to attach them to the car. If you still want to buy a replacement from eBay look for one that has a metal frame as yours does.
IMO your much better off buying brand new parts and repairing your own. I have all the parts you'd need to repair your hatch pull-down unit and provide detailed instructions. If you're all thumbs I also sell re-manufactured hatch pull-down units or can rebuild yours.
Lon Salgren
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IMO your much better off buying brand new parts and repairing your own. I have all the parts you'd need to repair your hatch pull-down unit and provide detailed instructions. If you're all thumbs I also sell re-manufactured hatch pull-down units or can rebuild yours.
Lon Salgren
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