Hey fellas,

I posted a couple months back on how to get a key made
for a 89 T/A GTA, well .. GM wants and arm and a leg plus
my soul .. LMAO!!


Since I cant drive it, they want me to tow it so they can
read the VATS box for the key .. I dont really wanna .. so

Is there a smart talented individual that has managed
to bypass the VATS so u can use a normal key??

Jus a normal key, they guy at the Chevy Dealer
said if u can manage to bypass VATS .. and normal
key will fire it up ..



Maybe I should find a Grand Theft Auto website
to see how the hell the steal these cars!!

 

Check around with the local locksmiths in your area. Some of them have the equipment to read the VATS code from the VATS control module and can get the key code from your lock cylinder to cut you a new key. A lot of them also make housecalls. You might even get to claim it against your insurance if you have the right coverage.

 

Yea, Ive been talking to the guy .. he does house
calls .. for 140 bux!

He was also sayin GM should have the code ..

he said two letters should Identify the Code, and if GM
doesnt give it to you .. then there bull****tin u ..

He said they keep Caddy, Vette, and IROC codes


so I went to the dealer, and they said they dont keep record of anything under 1991 Vats

 

I just got through talking to a friend who works in the parts department at my local dealership. He said if you can give me the VIN he will run it through the computer and see if it will spit out the key and VATS code for you. Not making any guarantees, but he will try to help you on it.

 

If you can contact Jenn then you can ask her to get you a copy of the original invoice for your car. I don't have time to look up the contact information but when I get home tonight I will see if I can get you her email address. The key code is listed on there, along with a few other cool things. Shipping weight and all that.

My car was 20k in 1989! I didn't think it was that expensive then, but wow.

 

Vin: 1G2FW21F0KL203659

year: 89

Model: FTG (Firebird Trans AM GTA)

body: 2DHB


This car listed at 15999



If a guy at the dealership can get it, I would be grateful !!


If they charge to pull the codes .. lemme know, ill take care of it


and .. sorry for that thanks topic .. I wasnt paying attention, delete it

 

Sorry TPI,

They didn't have the VATS code listed for your car, However if that is the original lock cylinder that came in your car he gave me the key code so you can have a key cut. The code for cutting the key is "56A9". Hope this little bit helps some.

PS: Your "Thanks" thread has been taken care of.

 

Yea, its the original lock cylinder ..


So thats the number I give em to cut the key??

the locksmith said 30 bucks .. thatd help me out a ton .. you dont understand how greatful I am .. seriously man

Hail trickster :hail:


who am I kidden .. Hail 3rdgen

 

Hey guys


just following up,

Thanks for that Key code .. saved alot of time and the locksmith knew which key pattern to use ( thanks to you)


However it took him all 15 times to find the code and
he charged me 5 bucks a try plus the 30 dollar key


So its was around 150bucks .. but could been an easy $200
job without that Key ID #


THANKS MAN

 

http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/652T.html

I'm struggling with this myself and found these.

I'm trying to use some resistors from an audio shop but have not found the correct resistance, my volt-ohm meter may not be accurate.

So I may be back.

May as well throw in this one.

http://www.autopreservers.com/bypass-module.html

 

rol1
when using the DEI VATS Bypass Module, you have to be within 10% of the total resistance value of the transistor in the key, or the car will not accept the resistance value and it will think you are using the wrong key. I've used these things for a long time. They can be tricky on some of the resistances, as you will have to make a chain of resistors. If you find an istaller who has been around a while, like at Circuit City (they have carried DEI for a long time), most of them will have little bags of resistors that used to come with the VIPER alarms that were specifically used for bypassing VATS modules. Give me your address and I will send you one.

 

gm only used 15 different resistances for ALL vats vehicles, not just the f-body. being within 10% of the value is correct. Simply use a good multi meter and measure ACROSS the chip in the key without touching it (induces resistance and falsifies the reading).

I have NEVER had to make a chain of resistors to bypass VATS on any gm vehicle...there is always a value thats close enough. Using a modern bypass is a waste of money....

bmoney

 

Wouldn't it be possible to burn a custom chip with VATS disabled?

 

omg, why would you burn anything custom for VATS??? Its so pathetically easy to defeat. Consult your local quality installer and they'll have it permanently defeated for you in 15 minutes.

We get requests like these in the shop about 5 or 10 times a year. Mostly older Cavaliers and Sunfires with Passlock I which has locked up. Instead of spending hundreds on a replacement cylinder/receiver, they spend $75 and have it defeated so they can drive the car

bmoney

 

Alot of guys on this site burn their own chips, so its not beyond the realm of possiblity.

 

I never mentioned the possibility, I just wondered why someone would go to the trouble/expense if they could solder in a 12 cent resistor? thats all....

bmoney

 

Here my situation. I bought a 92 Firebird with the 6 cyl, auto trans anda bent nose at a local auction, cheap, I thought. But now I see that not having the key is a pain in the ***.

The tow company had keys cut according to the serial number codes. The door locks worked but the ignition didn't, changed steering colum was their guess. So I pulled the steering wheel and pulled the lock cylinder and went to the local Chevrolet dealer that the tow yard used for their keys and had a set cut from the number off the cylinder. This worked on the cylinder but not the vats.

While under the dash I see the caralarm installed (JTI jt2 with the 2 button remote) over a older installation of a different alarm, three relays tied in to the door locks, two for the jt2 hooked up to bypass the single relay from the earlier alarm.

I did go to a local audio shop and they gave me a bag of about 70 resistors that I checked the ohms and labled each, none were the correct values. So I used different combos of paraell and series to get the values. Then after most of the week of trying a few a day (because the 5 to 15 minuter delay after a failed try) after work, I flipped the scale on my vom and the readings didn't match. So I got a different meter and went through the list of values again. About four times

But looking in my Haynes Camaro book and from some of your posts I looked closely at a flex wraped on the driver side wheel well and found a 25 amp fuse on a wier not connected to any thing. When I pulled the plastic tube off the end and stripped off some of the insulation it looked acid damaged and broke off of something else. Is this wire suppose to conect to the battery terminal? There are two wires connected to the positive terminal. They cross the engine compartment then back to thefirewall. I doesn't look like there were three wires on the terminal.

How do I check the fuel pump? On the Camero I would jump power to connector m on the aldl and listen for the fuel pump, but my aldl has no copper in slot m.

Under the dash on the driverside there is a heatsink looking thing about 3 inchs in size with 3 or 4 wires going to it? What is it? Apiece of mne seems to be gone, maybe.

I've looked at the Haynes Camero/Firebird and the Chiltons firebird book but weren't a big help.

Help?

 

Found a diagram of a pontiac aldl and it's not the same as in the camero book.

The Haynes camero has the a-f right to left and g-m right to left. In pics posted of a 92 v8 has a-f right to left and g-m left to right. I have to look at that again.

If the vats is enabled will fuel pump test by jumping g to 12v still work?

 

On the 92 model, the fuel pump diagnostic terminal is located in the engine compartment near the fuel pump relay. BTW, the only thing related to the fuel system that is controlled by VATS is the fuel injectors through the ECM from the VATS control module.

 

How do I do the fuelpump test? Does the key have to be on?

I went by and spent tne afternoon trying resistrs for the VATS, no luck, I'm sure that most values were within 10%.

I found a "Superchip" chip in the rear glovebox. Do I need to check for a aftermarket prom?