Didn't see an area for first posts, so I'll just dump it in here.
Name is Tom and I live in Southern Indiana.
I have a '92 RS with the 3.1 and auto. The "won't start" syndrome has hit full tilt (was sporadic for a while). I did a search on the Passkey-VATS, and confirmed that the symptoms: no start, no injectors, constant security light on the dash. I did the resistor across the key bypass and no help. I bypassed the starter relay, so I could crank, but still no injectors and yes, the fuel pump comes on. I got the Baker Electronix bypass, wired my hot and ground, but can't find where to connect to the ECM. The suggested wire colors are not the same for by ECM (122730) as indicated in the instructions for the particular pin number. My Haynes manual is useless. Should I just go to that pin number anyway and try or what? Can I back probe that wire or does it need to be cut and attached to the bypass. I don't want to damage the ECM.
Thanks.

 

No, you don't want to damage the ECM.

It is probably best to follow the pinout and not the colors, although understanding the function of each connection and matching that to the load/input device would be the most certain means of assuring proper connections.

 

Thanks. The instructions from Baker are far from accurate. I have since found the correct ECM pinout for the car and the instructions were WAY off. Have it connected and it seems to work, but now other problems have creapt up like a very bad idle that won't keep running unless I feather the throttle. Oh well, wrench, wrench, wrench.

 

One down, more to go, eh?

1992 3.1 MPFI + Unstable Idle = Multec injectors.

At least, that equation is frequently true. It may be good, even if only for the exercise and/or elimination of a possibility, to disconnect and measure the cold and hot resistance of the injector solenoid coils. They are fairly accessible on the V-6s. Cold versus hot readings can vary widely, but anything around or below ten ohms is highly suspect. Anything below 8-9 ohms is likely junk.

They had a little trouble with solenoid insulation in those injectors, especially when exposed to blended fuels and heat. Several reputable injector service companies advise that they aren't even worth cleaning most of the time.

Just thought I'd relate my experiences. If you're lucky, your's are still servicable.

 

Thanks a bunch. Already tested spark, TPS, AIS, fuel pump, pinouts on ecm. I'll check it out the injectors
I miss point ignition and carbs.

 

Hi, me again. Well I pulled the injectors and inspected each.
The resistance of each solenoid is between 12.4 and 12.8 ohms, according to the specs, just where they should be. I manually fired the injector banks (through ignition and switched ground), still attached to the fuel rail and got a nice spray pattern without any dripping. I am about ready to get a oneway ticket to Wit's End. The electronic spark module checked OK, as did the IAT, TPS, and IAC. Fuel pressure is at 41 pounds. I also substituted a known good ECM. Same results, initially fires, runs good for 2-3 seconds and then I must feather throttle to keep it idling. Getting 12V OK at injectors. I checked the injector driver ground at the ECM and it shows "0" ohms at key on , but 18 ohms in run position, chart says "0" there and that bothers me. I have checked all chassis, engine and ECM ground points and have jumpered to make sure all is solid. I gotta be missing something incredibly simple.
Should I replace all of the injectors? I am getting lost here. I am setting no codes except for VATS, but I assume that is because I have it bypassed.

Moderator, If this needs to move to another forum, be my guest.

Thanks