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That plastic peice that moves the dimmer rod came loose...

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Old 11-22-2005, 07:47 PM
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Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
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That plastic peice that moves the dimmer rod came loose...

You know the peice I am talking about? It is about 1-1/2 inches long, has a curved part and hits the dimmer rod when you swing the turn switch forward to engage the brights. Well it came loose and I can't get it back in due to leverage and sight....I can't see through metal and plastic.

Another thing I messed the tilt up as well. It worked fine before, but now the damn thing won't work right and it only stays in the furthest down position which is fine because that's where I have it anyway. Buuuuut I hate having things not working right.

Anyway, if I have to take apart the column, what is the first step....steering wheel removal? If so YAY for me.
Old 11-23-2005, 09:30 AM
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
The dimmer switch is on the top LH of the column a few inches from the floor. When you pull the turnsignal lever, it pushes a long steel rod that goes all the way down the column into the switch. It is held on by 2 screws with either 1/4" or 7mm heads that go through slots on the switch. Loosen them, slide the switch up a little, tighten them, check for proper operation. They're sort of a PITA to get at because they're close to the brake light switch, clutch starter switch, etc. Dropping the steering column makes it much easier.
Old 11-23-2005, 04:43 PM
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Well the thing that pushes the rod is what has broken off. It's right behind the turn signal switch.
Old 11-23-2005, 08:37 PM
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Originally posted by BigWhiteGTP
Well the thing that pushes the rod is what has broken off. It's right behind the turn signal switch.
If it's a small part inside the housing, it won't be an over-the-counter replacement. So, you'll either need a donor car for parts or merely bypass the problem by installing a floor high-low beam switch which can be wired/installed in less than an hour. Changing the whole column with one from a donor car is easy too, but you'll have to disassemble far enough to swap the key cylinder.
Old 11-23-2005, 08:58 PM
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Originally posted by BigWhiteGTP
Well the thing that pushes the rod is what has broken off. It's right behind the turn signal switch.
Dude, it looks like you are ****ed unless you can find the PIVOT SWITCH from the JY and have the ability to pull the steering wheel and do the work your self. The same thing happened to me and I just purchased a single throw double throw black switch from Radio Shack for $3.00. I drilled a small hole in one of my instrument panel plates and spliced the wires underneath the dash. This worked much easier than replacing a very expensive and hard to find switch and works great.
Lawrence
Old 11-23-2005, 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by Duck
If it's a small part inside the housing, it won't be an over-the-counter replacement. So, you'll either need a donor car for parts or merely bypass the problem by installing a floor high-low beam switch which can be wired/installed in less than an hour. Changing the whole column with one from a donor car is easy too, but you'll have to disassemble far enough to swap the key cylinder.
I first thought that my only option was a replacement pivot switch or a floor mounted dimmer switch, but you can replace it with a manual switch anywhere on your dash with a 1/4" hole and some wire splicing. Let me know if you need help? It looks great also!
Lawrence
Old 11-23-2005, 09:13 PM
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Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
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Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by jandl22
I first thought that my only option was a replacement pivot switch or a floor mounted dimmer switch, but you can replace it with a manual switch anywhere on your dash with a 1/4" hole and some wire splicing. Let me know if you need help? It looks great also!
Lawrence
Personally, I wouldn't want to be groping for a dash switch to hit the low-beams when I have both hands on the steering wheel drifting through mountain roads at 85 mph. A foot switch is safer and gives the left foot something to do -- it's even better than the column-mounted switch, unless the car has a manual tranny.
Old 11-23-2005, 09:16 PM
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Originally posted by Duck
Personally, I wouldn't want to be groping for a dash switch to hit the low-beams when I have both hands on the steering wheel drifting through mountain roads at 85 mph. A foot switch is safer and gives the left foot something to do -- it's even better than the column-mounted switch, unless the car has a manual tranny.
No groping involved???????? I mounted my hi beam low beam toggle switch under the cig lighter
WTF is the difference from a left hand or a right hand movement
Old 11-24-2005, 03:10 AM
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Well I don't think it's broken, just dislodged. Because it's plastic, if it were broken, you'd see the plastic turn white at the stress point. This peice doesn't have that. It just came dislodged.

As for rigging up a switch, I'm not into that. I'm more of a stock **** in that regard. And really, the brights never worked that well so I never used them. One day I'll get back in there. Also the tilt is not working as well. Nor is the horn since day one when I bought it last January and neither is the turn signals.
Old 11-24-2005, 11:49 AM
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Ok, I'd look for a donor car of the same year, pull the complete column and overhaul it on the workbench prior to replacing the one presently in your car. If it's a tilt column, sooner or later the four bolts holding the tilt mechanism together will loosen, so this is the best way to prevent it. Plus you'll have a completely refurbished column.
Old 11-24-2005, 12:22 PM
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As for the tilt, it works, it just won't lock into postion unless it's at the very bottom. So I feel it needs to be adjusted.
Old 11-26-2005, 05:40 PM
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Little doubt, you need to check your #19:

Old 05-10-2006, 03:11 PM
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I haver the same proble, and i just took my steering column apart, how do i put the little pastic piece back on the actuator rod and make it stay in place while i reassemble the entire column housing?
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