I have an 86 Z28 305 carbed 5 speed with not much of a trunk hatch pull down motor. I have some pics and would like to know what parts I need to get it fixed and working and any tips. Please send pics of how it should look since it is off the car and I have no idea what I need. As you can see, the wiring all seems to be there as well as the bracket to hang it on and the contact on the big plastic cover seems ok also. I tested all the wires with a light tester and the only one with power was the red wire with the white connector end .
Thanks in advance.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/hatchpulldown.pdf

 

Thanks Iron Duke !
I have so much work to do on these cars!

 

Maybe one day someone will recognize my help and ask me to be a MOD, if you need any other help I will be happy to assist, just PM me.

 

You're missing a lot of parts. I can list them, and they are all available from my web site. You'll find that the cheapest solution would be to pick up a complete used 1985-91 pull-down unit from a Pick-a-Part or eBay. Then rebuild/replace any items you may find bad on it.

Missing: motor, motor housing, bearing, wave washer, gear nut, lift rod assy, trunion (in your case 85-87 was a bolt and locking nut, but a trunion and push nut are functionally interchangeable), reversing switch, phillips head screw to attach it to motor housing, striker-sensing switch, latch asy, guides, relay, misc screws.

The red/white stripe wire with the large white connector plugs into the blue wire of the striker-sensing switch (which includes all the wiring for the pull-down unit). The large black connector with black & yellow wires has nothing to do with the pull-down unit. It plugs into the contact pad to the left of the pull-down unit. On 1982-84 or 85 cars that contact pad powered the optional hatch wiper motor. On 85-90 it powered the HMSL (high-mount stop light) aka third brake light. The other smaller black connector attaches to the solenoid hatch release (which you're also missing). I can sell you a complete re-manufactured pull-down unit, but since you don't have a core to return you'd be stuck with paying the $75 core charge.

As I wrote before you're cheapest route will be to pick up a used one as cheaply as possible, then rebuild anything you find broken.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions