A/C Clutch connector
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Car: '83 Camaro
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
A/C Clutch connector
I had a LS1 installed in my thridgen, in the process the cut off the connector that plugs into my A/C compressor to tell it to turn on. It's a two prong connector that has a small diode on it. Is there anywhere to still buy this connctor or does anyone know what diode I can buy to build me own? The only information I have it that it is a 25A diode? I'm not even sure if that is right. Any help is appreciated! 
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Car: '83 Camaro
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
No one? 
I have the stock A/c in there and can't use it and I live in Florida. Uhg. Can anyone tell me where the wires for the A/C connector come from? Like where exactly they come out of what connector, what color wires, etc.
I have the stock A/c in there and can't use it and I live in Florida. Uhg. Can anyone tell me where the wires for the A/C connector come from? Like where exactly they come out of what connector, what color wires, etc. 
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Oslo, Norway
Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
It's an ordinary diode you can get at Radio Shack at next to nothing.
It's there just to protect the ECM from inductive kickback from the clutch when it swithes off. The rating's not critical, you can use any kind 1 to 3 Amps, 50 to 1000 Volts.
1N4001 = 1A 50V, up to 1N4007 = 1A 1000V
1N5401 = 3A 50V, up to 1N5406 = 3A 600V
Of course the higher ratings makes them more robust, both mechanically and electrically. The white stripe on the body goes to the positive wire. Try AutoZone.com for wiring diagrams.
Not often it's a problem w/o AC over here! ;P
It's there just to protect the ECM from inductive kickback from the clutch when it swithes off. The rating's not critical, you can use any kind 1 to 3 Amps, 50 to 1000 Volts.
1N4001 = 1A 50V, up to 1N4007 = 1A 1000V
1N5401 = 3A 50V, up to 1N5406 = 3A 600V
Of course the higher ratings makes them more robust, both mechanically and electrically. The white stripe on the body goes to the positive wire. Try AutoZone.com for wiring diagrams.
Not often it's a problem w/o AC over here! ;P
Last edited by Fullsizewagon; Sep 3, 2006 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention something..
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Car: '83 Camaro
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
It's an ordinary diode you can get at Radio Shack at next to nothing.
It's there just to protect the ECM from inductive kickback from the clutch when it swithes off. The rating's not critical, you can use any kind 1 to 3 Amps, 50 to 1000 Volts.
1N4001 = 1A 50V, up to 1N4007 = 1A 1000V
1N5401 = 3A 50V, up to 1N5406 = 3A 600V
Of course the higher ratings makes them more robust, both mechanically and electrically. The white stripe on the body goes to the positive wire. Try AutoZone.com for wiring diagrams.
Not often it's a problem w/o AC over here! ;P
It's there just to protect the ECM from inductive kickback from the clutch when it swithes off. The rating's not critical, you can use any kind 1 to 3 Amps, 50 to 1000 Volts.
1N4001 = 1A 50V, up to 1N4007 = 1A 1000V
1N5401 = 3A 50V, up to 1N5406 = 3A 600V
Of course the higher ratings makes them more robust, both mechanically and electrically. The white stripe on the body goes to the positive wire. Try AutoZone.com for wiring diagrams.
Not often it's a problem w/o AC over here! ;P
This is kinda a weird situation..
I had a LS1 installed in my 83', I got a bracket to keep my stock A/C, BUUT the shop I got the bracket from neglected to tell me that the bracket was for ~87' year not an 83'. So they sold me (fairly cheap) a correct year A/C unit with the intact lines and such. Well the shop cut off my two prong A/C connecter that we are talking about and I have been trying to figure this out ever since.
I thought I found the signal/hot wire coming from the firewall (dark green) and I checked it when I turned the A/C to on and there was no juice.
Any more info you have that you think would help would be appreciated. Thanks!
dingle
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: Oslo, Norway
Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Strange shop...
Generally, if the ECM is in the car then it's usually involved in the switching of the AC, if it has been removed then you may need to do a slight rewire and the diode would not be crucial, albeit beneficial for the relay contacts. I don't know exactly which diagram version applies to your car, but when you turn on the AC you should have 12V on the light green wire on the pressure switch, and 12V out on the light blue wire if the pressure is ok. This then goes to a PS cutout switch. From there on the diagrams differ, it may go through a relay controlled by the ECM, but eventually there should be 12V on the dark green wire (and ground is on a black).
Generally, if the ECM is in the car then it's usually involved in the switching of the AC, if it has been removed then you may need to do a slight rewire and the diode would not be crucial, albeit beneficial for the relay contacts. I don't know exactly which diagram version applies to your car, but when you turn on the AC you should have 12V on the light green wire on the pressure switch, and 12V out on the light blue wire if the pressure is ok. This then goes to a PS cutout switch. From there on the diagrams differ, it may go through a relay controlled by the ECM, but eventually there should be 12V on the dark green wire (and ground is on a black).
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