ok First off. I"m a Single daddy with no help and money is tight. So buying a new 250 + alt is out of the question.

I think 'im having alt. Problems. Ok here it is. I've had the alt. and bat. checked and said good. going down the road and first start up no matter what the load is it reads about 13. Which would probley be 14v so we all good there. But say i'm in town and have headlights on with blower up high and fog lights on. its drops all the way down to like 10. sometimes even to the red if fans kick on. Once i accelerate it goes back up ( normal about a grand and a half and puts it right back on the 13 mark ) yes i checked my gage with a actual gage and it works proper. Pretty much just saying, headlights and blower on ( no fog lights or stereo or anything else ) it drops way down and lights dim. I seems to ahve a new alt ( but probley from o`reillys or autozone ) It was there when i bought it in feb.

What should i do????? Kind of cheap

I have a second battery and took out old air filter and put in the camaro one so i have room for second battery. Should i put it in and run 2?

I probley save up money ( take a month or 2 ) buy a new one from the dealer. I know i can't afford a high dollar one. I plan on puttin underpullys on but like i said money is tight being a single daddy with no help....I know it shouldn't drop down with factory stuff on.

btw it always starts right up with no drag or hesitation. Just has low volt at idle i'm afraid it will leave me and daughter stranded. I can't have that happing with a 100 degree weather or in winter with 10 degree weather....

HOOK ME UP WITH SOME ADVICE PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you
Derrick

 

First, there is no need to use two batteries unless you are performing a diesel conversion or you have about 2,000 W of audio system.

Before you jump on replacing the alternator, make sure the connections are intact - All four of them. Check the output cable connection at both ends, the grounding, and especially the field connections.

Make sure the alternator RPM is adequate. Underdrive sheaves will cause this syndrome, as will a slipping belt. If the engine RPM is incorrect, the same thing can occur. The ECM is programmed to increase target idle RPM when the cooling fans are turned on. If this doesn't happen, the problem may not necessarily be the alternator.

If you do determine the alternator itself is a problem, they are easy to rebuild and repair. You can disassemble and diagnose them with minimal tools and equipment. A volt/ohmmeter, some small sockets or nut drivers, and basic hand tools will get the alternator off, opened up, and apart. Check teh stator winding resistance. Check the rotor (field) winding. Test the rectifiers individually. Inspect the brushes, springs, brush holders, and slip rings for wear, dirt or grease contamination, poor contact, and general failure. Clean the connections betwween the stator and rectifier, and the connections for the regulator. If the bearings are intact, the brushes are clean and making adequate contact (you can get a brush set for about five bucks), all connections are clean and tight, and the unit is generally free from contamination (which can shunt some of the field power or regulator sensing) the unit should perform as designed.

If you don't want to spend that kind of "quality time" with your alternator, you can get a reman alternator with a lifetime warranty for about $70.

 

i think it is a new reman alt.... But thank you for your reply. I'm going to wait to put my new injectors in ( have a bad one ) and new fuel pump and i'm going to go from there. Maybe everthing willl work out.... I think i have computer problems but i'm not going to say for sure until i get new fuel pump and injectors in there. Thank you for your time in such a great repost!!!!

Thanks
Derrick

 

I put in bold what i was wondering on. I don't think my computer cominsates for this because i have it wired when i primary fan comes on so does my secondary. For some reason my secondary quit working ( not relays already did my test and stuff ) I have power where i should and fan works... Also the other evening i was working on my a/c to get it to work... And this is the first i've noticed of it but with key on , car not started, i can turn on the a/c and the clutch engages... I didn't think it would engage unless motor was running for the pressure switch to activate it.....
I believe i am having a slight idling problem because of my bad injector. I do not have a scan tool but it i have stated this before...
It don't matter if the car is hot, cold , been drove a million times that day. I can drive 100 miles or 1 mile but the first time i stop ( about 2-3 seconds of a complete stop ) my idle goes from about 800 and drops to 500 or so . People say this is normal but it seems to me ( i don't have a scan tool. ) that my IAC just closes cause i've had to re-adjust my idle plates. And the only reason i can think i have to have these open so far is because of my bad injector and computer is trying to compensate for it....ALSO!!! i was wondering. on my 91 t/a 305 with the 700r4, can my speedo work but my computer not know my speed? But i'm still hoping its that injector making my car do all this funny stuff....


Sorry so long but my car not being perfect drives me nuts..... Also is my esc build in the computer or on the firewall. Most of everywhere i've read it says it should be built in the ecm.... But i have a box on the firewall that has 2 plugs and says guide on it i believe.....


Thank you
Derrick