I'm going to attempt to wire up 3 digital gauges (2 Summit, 1 Nordskog) in a pod to suppliment my vague analog sweepers. Those will be water temp/volts/fuel level. I plan on running the 3 switched 12v wires into one butt-crimped wire into the fuse block and plugging them in the IGN terminal. I will also "group-ground" the 3 ground wires either to the nearest chasis ground or to the engine block if that doesn't work.

Now the questions:

- The fuel level wire is the pink one going into the analog gauge, correct? Is there any reason I cannot remove that wire from the analog gauge, butt-crimp 2 wires of the same gauge and run 1 to the analog gauge and 1 to the new digital gauge?

- I've read a couple different install directions, they mention running one of the wires to the headlight switch to dim the digital g's at night, this is the orange/white wire coming directly out of the HL switch? What would be the best way to tap that wire? Butt-crimping again?

- Only 1 set of directions (the Autometer, not what I'll be using) says to use a 1amp fuse inline with each of the 3 switched 12v wires. Is this necessary or can I combine them?.

- For the 3-into-1 wires, that can be a single 16g wire going into the fuse box?

Last, on something kind of unrelated, I've read about the "Big 3" wire changeover. Is this purely for audio or is this related to overall electric functionality?

Thank You Once Again,
Eric

 

Hi Eric, got your PM.
Here are some answers:

1) It would make more logical sense to use the GAUGES fuse instead but IGN fuse is good as well.
2) Grounding to the nearest chassis is fine.
3) You can't split the pink fuel level wire into multiple gauges. One gauge per sensor.
4) For gauge illumination, tap into the grey wire from fuse INST LPS.
5) Yes, you may combine the 3 switched wires and run, let's say, a 3A inline fuse. But if you're tapping into the GAUGES fuse, you could do away with an inline fuse completely.
6) Sure, a single 16ga wire will be plenty for three small gauges.
7) Haven't heard of the "Big 3" so I can't comment on that, sorry.

Hope this helps.
Lou

 

The big 3 refers to the heavier battery cables under the hood ie. both batery cables and the alternator cable. On a 20-something year old car it doesnt hurt to replace them. as wires age both the wire it self can fail along with the insulation can crack.

I don't reccomend butt connectors unless getting a soldering iron in the area you are using is impossible. Butt connectors will hold solid if crimped properly but most use a hard plastic insulator that will eventually crack and could cause shorts. If you dont crimp it good enough the wire is easily pulled out. Soldering is a superior method of joining wires. As long as you get the wires hot enough and you don't get a cold solder, the solder joing becomes the strongest point in the wiring. You just have to make sure you tape your joints well. If you are going to crimp connectors on I suggest tapeing them as well.

 

A short followup:

1) which wire on the GAUGES fuse would I tap?
4) I want to make sure that you know I'm talking about DIMMING the digital gauges when the headlight or parking lights are switched on. The INST LPS circuit will do this?

As for the Big 3, I've read some more and found it prudent to do this "upgrade". I'm going to use 1 gauge cable for the battery +/- and 4AWG for the grounds and for the ALT to BAT +, running the 2 small wires directly from POS to their weatherpack connectors. I'm going to run an inline fuse for the ALT/BAT of 140-150a (105a alt).

?) 4AWG/150amps, ok?

 

1) The pink/black wire, that's the fused side. (there are MANY pink/black wires in the fusebox, make sure you got the right one.
4) Yup, that's the fuse that feeds the instrument lamps, from the dimmer switch. It's the grey wire.

Lou