I have a 89 IROC TPI that has got me checking the prices of carbs when it runs it runs great no check eng lights but it is the most un relible car it never stalls or Quits on me but if i shut it of it most of the time will not start back up it cranks but i have no spark from the coil or no injector paulse the fuel pump turns on durring cranking and i have pressure at the rail if it sits for a few hours it mite fire rite up iam just not shure what to check next ?

 

The first thing I'd do is go back to school and learn punctuation and how to use it. I am not a teenager texting on a cellphone all day and I can't read something that doesn't look like English. I was respectful enough to learn your language so it might be nice if you did the same, thank you.

The next thing you could do is test the coil for spark. You can remove the coil wire from the distributor and with the key on, ground the white wire repeatedly. If you see spark, the coil is good.
You can also disconnect the timing connector (single connector on the passenger side, by the blower motor) on the brown/black wire. If you still get no spark, the problem might be in the distributor and/or the ignition module inside the distributor.

The reason why I recommend to look at the spark first is that if you fix the spark, you'll likely get injectors back online. The ECM reads the spark pulses and uses them to fuel the engine. So no spark translates into no fuel.

Let us know what you find.
Lou

 

Thanks for being so rude. For your information, I do know this language. I was asking about a car not an english lesson anyways. If I was worried about my punctuation I would of asked for help on that.

I have already changed out both the distributor and the coil. The ignition module has also been changed, and I still have no spark and no fuel. I have also replaced the ECM. So I'm kinda thinking that it might have something to do with the VATS system. We tried by-passing the key, by putting the resistor in-line. That also didn't work. Although I'm not 100% sure that I have the correct OHMs. I measured them from the key.

Thanks for any information you can provide. Please disregard any of my spelling errors, I'm a mechanic not an english major.

 

Thanks for using punctuation this time. It's really MUCH more readable.
Sorry for being rude but I just can't stand it when people ask for help but make it nearly impossible for us to help them.
Spelling errors are not a big deal, one can guess what the poster meant but missing punctuation wreaks havoc on the meaning of the whole composition.
Once again, thanks for writing clear, it really helps.

Ok, back to the car then!
Like I said before, I would attack the spark first. Once you have spark, the injectors might start working as well because the ECM won't inject fuel without seeing spark (engine rotation).
I'd really test out the coil first by grounding the white wire. If the coil and wires are good, I'd move onto the distributor and its wiring.
Even with a new coil, new distributor and new ECM, a bad connector or broken wire can make you almost lose your sanity. So I'd test wires for continuity and also while testing the components, make sure to wiggle the wires to find any line breaks.

I'm curious what you find.
Lou