so the car will not crank nor will the fuel pump prime. plain and simple to the point. ive changed all the ign stuff, ign switch, ign mod, neu/safety switch, starter, fusible links at the starter. and me and a few other people have came to a conclusion it sounds like a vats issue. can anyone help me out here? im in the michigan area. im about to move to a different place so i wont have a garage anymore but if anyone would be willing to come out and look at it and see if they can get it running. i will make it worth your while. if you have any suggestions please reply or call or txt me 443-466-6630. *Dave* also im on LS1tech.com and Mifbody.com As 1Slo_Camaro


thanks in advance

 

Anybody? Please im willing to pay someone for their help

 

Well for starters ide say why do you suspect this is a VATS issue? I mean is there anything beyond the wont crank issue like a security light or something? I would start troubleshooting at the starter enable relay as its easy to get to (its behind the kick panel where the hood release cable is). There should be 4 wires 2 yellow, one tan/white, and one black/ yellow. Remove the connector from the relay and have someone hold the key in the crank position. Take a volt meter and measure the voltage on the yellow wires by putting the red lead of the meter to each yellow wire and the meters black lead to a good ground. You should read 12V on each and means you are receiving the 12V signal from the ignition switch to try and start the car. Next (still holding the key in the crank position) take a test light hook and the clip to 12V and touch the probe to the black/yellow wire. The light should light signifying that the VATS system is telling the car its ok to start. If the light is not on the VATS module is telling the car not to start. Lastly take you volt meter and measure the resistance to ground of the tan/white wire. Do this by setting your meter to read ohms if its not automatically done and put the red lead to the tan/white wire and the black lead to a good ground. If you read no resistance there is a fault after the relay but if it does read resistance then its probably fine. By doing these tests we can diagnose the no crank issue which will probably lead to the main problem thats killing everything be it VATS or whatever the cause may be.

 

alright ill try that this weekend. but the reason why i thought vats is cause when the starter went the fuel pump stopped also. and the pump is just about brand new. so i did some reading and found out that vats will do that sometimes where it shuts down the entire system. but thankyou. and if it is the vats where is the vats box at?

 

Well although my understanding is it only disables the injector pulse not the pump itself running that test will give us an idea of where the fault is where ever it might be VATS related or not and we can go from there to narrow it down further. The VATS module itself is under the dash by the steering column.

 

ok ill check all that this weekend. and i have the whole dash pulled apart under the steering wheel and cant find it. i mean i also dont know xactly what it looks like either lol. idk i just miss driving my car. shes been in the fam for 9 years. it made a 27 hours drive from NC to MD then within about 5 days. it turned around and drove from MD to MI. without one single problem. and now this when i get out here to michigan. luckily i bought a truck when i got out here or else id be stressing out about gettign the car done. now i just want her back running and driving so its not sitting. i hate is stting. sorry for ranting lol

 

Its ok no worries. On the bright side a problem like this should be relatively easy to diagnose because its so serious and its not intermittent.

Check this out specifically the item labeled #1

https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/images...eLocationB.jpg

 

alright cool. ive seen that before but just couldnt figure out where it was lol. i must be just overlooking it. but yea ill check it out this weekend and hopefully i can figure it out. thanks for all the help. hopefully when i figure it out or need a question your on lol

 

Rolling Thunder: So i got a good charge on my battery and turn the key over to the on position and my security light is steady on. VATs problem now right?


late post: now i lie the security light isnt staying on now. wtf is going on? i looked all over underneath the dash and did not see a relay with two yellows, a tan/white, and a black/yellow. all i saw that was remotely close was a relay with two yellow a black/white and a green

 

Not sure if it is VATS , If I remember correctly When My ImpalaSS VATS went out the security light flashed....???? Sounds silly but have you tried a second key? To my knowlege Usualy what goes bad with the VATS is in the Ignition lock cylinder so you either have to replace the cylinder and have the new one keyed ($$) and installed or do what I did and take your key to the electronics store near you and buy a resistor ( or resistors ) With the same ohms rating as your key and by-pass the key cylinder by tying them in line to the module.

Definatly try the tests mentioned above 1st cause they are free and it may be a simple relay..

Good luck.

 

Already done the key bypass. and ive looked all over the car and cant find the relay he is speaking of

 

Well sorry about that that ones my fault the schematic I was looking at was for a 91 and it seems they changed the wire colors for 92. The relay should be located behind the drivers side kick panel and the wire colors are as follows according to the 92 schematic:

1. Yellow: Should be 12V from the ignition switch when cranking (measure as stated originally)
2. Pink: Also 12V from the ignition switch when cranking (again measure as stated before)
3. Dark green: performing the ohm test as listed originally you should read some sort of resistance not an open circuit.
4. Black/yellow: This one should be should be grounded by the VATS module when trying to start the car. This is the wire you will want to do the test with the test light as stated earlier.

Now I noticed you found one with the same colors except the pink that may be a misprint, may be correct on some models just not yours, or maybe the wire was pink just faded/dirty. If you found that relay behind the kick panel then I think its pretty safe to say thats the one and just treat the yellow wires as described originally that they should both have 12V on that wire when cranking.

 

ok yes and i crossed the two yellow / pink wires with my vlt meter and came up with zero

 

Im not sure what you mean by you crossed the yellow and pink wire and came up with 0? Do you mean you measured the voltage on them while cranking the car and it came up with 0V? And also your sure you had a good ground?

 

ooo **** imsorry i read through your post earlier to quick and yea all i did was cross them i didnt ground it out. well ill have to try the right way in a little bit lol no wonder it didnt come out right

 

lol its ok no worries we all make mistakes lol.

 

hahahah ok. so i had a guy from mifbody come over and give me a hand. we have the car cranking and the fuel pump. well i lie. HE has the car cranking and fuel pump kicking. the only problem now. is the injectors arent spitting. so hes got a noid light gonna come back hopefully wednesday night and find out if the injectors are getting a pulse or what. he said if we get a pulse then its a shatty pump and not building up enough psi. so im pretty stoked just to hear it crank and eveything. and i havent got a can of ether either so i cant do the quick check lol.so hes just gonna bring over his noid light and were gonna go from there. im really excited. Dustin (alwaysmessedup) From MiFBody. if you know who he is. WOW hes a real stand up guy. i owe him quite a bit.

 

If the injectors are not pulsing it is most likely the vats.

 

well where at on the car can i bypass the vats for the fuel injectors?


weve already bypassed it for the starter

 

VATS not only kills the starter but it also sends a signal to the ecm to enable the fuel injectors. If that signals not being sent they will not fire. The easiest way to bypass it is with the resistor trick so the VATS module thinks the right key is in place and send the everything's ok signal.

 

for the millionth time lol ive already bypassed the key. (not trying to be a ****) but the resistor is already in there and yes its the right one.

 

Well if the keys bypassed with the right resistor and its done right then really the only thing left is a bad VATS module or youve lost the 12V supply or the ground.

 

well yea as far as i can tell its wired right lol. but i got the guy is gonna come out later on. and he really has a good idea of what hes doing. not saying you guys arent but for whatever reason im being like stupid with my car. i just cant figure the right **** out

 

Im gonna take a guess. Not a bet, as I might lose my ***.
Im going to guess it is going to be either or both:

#1. Distributor/ Ignition Module / Pickup coil
#2. ECM

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

alright will do. thanks again guys. hopefully when the guy gets back here we can figure it out. im sure we.... he will lol. my mind is fried with this car right now. i just wanna rip all the wiring out and slap in my 383 carbed SBC in her with a nice t56 behind it